Anderson Crank outs.

They can't be repaired because the previous owner threw away part of them.

There is a push in bushing on the end of the shaft.

I "repaired" two of similar ones (wheren't for Andersen's) with epoxy. One failed right away. Don't know about the other one.

In this case I the HO told we what happened. Kids trying to force the windows without opening the latches.

Might have been what happened in your case.

THAT IS EXACTLY RIGHT

THAT IS THE MOST COMMON REASON FOR CASEMENT HARDWARE TO FAIL IS DUE TO HOMEOWNERS NOT JUST KIDS TRYING TO OPEN THE WINDOWS WITHOUT UNLOCKING THEM FIRST. ALSO THE HARDWARE MUST BE LUBRICATED PERIODICALLY ALSO. AND THE BOTTOM OF THE WINDOW SILL CLEANED. IF THE WINDOW SILL IS DIRTY THAT CAUSES FRICTION ON THE HARDWARE WHICH WILL CAUSE THE HARDWARE TO FAIL SOONER. BUT EVEN THE BEST HARDWARE WILL FAIL EVENTUALLY DEPENDING ON AMOUNT OF USE. NOT ANDERSENS FAULT IN THIS CASE.

THANKS,

MATTHEW BURR

BUYER - WINDOWS AND DOORS

VILLAGE HOME CENTER / dba COOPER BUILDING MATERIALS

4650 HIGHWAY 7 NORTH

HOT SPRINGS VILLAGE, AR 71909

EMAIL: MBURR@CBMCCI.COM

I have found my own solution.

I have assembled the cranks as original and then used a punch to stake the surface around the bushing and create a tight fit which is better then new.

In case anyone finds this: I had the same thing. I don't get Billhart's answer, but carbonater55 is on the track I found.

The screw turns inside the tube (worm screw inside the shaft?) until one day (I think while you're closing the window) it pops out. When you remove the plastic cover, nothing looks broken inside. I believe the near (inside of the house) end of the shaft is supposed to have a smaller collar (bushing?) to keep the screw in, but the screw eventually wears it away and pops out.

So yes, I got a hammer and a nail punch, punched the screw back into the shaft, then punched the end of the shaft inward to jerry-rig a collar. That (and some lublication, and going easy when I close the windows) should buy me a year or two, but then I expect I'll have to buy a bunch of new cranks.

That isn't an Andersen operator.

This is Simon from Calgary, a DIY fan.

BV001448 is right. I just tried it on a popped out crank shaft in my casement window. Here is a tip to make the job much easier: Once you have the shaft back into its supposed position, instead of using a nail punch, which has a small head, hard to aim & easy to miss the top part of the shaft holding ring, get a cold chisel & use that instead. Hammer the chisel around the top part of the shaft holding ring, give them a few hard hits & leave obvious dent marks. It worked for me. A new replacement hardware costs $50+ here in HomeDepot Canada & I've purchased at least 3 in the past few years. This sure saves time & $.

I reseated the screw shaft with a deep well socket first. It seated well and did not pop out. I hen dented the casing to further secure the screw shaft. Seems to work well

Attached is a photo of the part for my bay window cranks. The windows crank out but cannot retract. The crank screw appears to be striped. Where can I purchase replacements.
eulance @aol.com. Lisa

Hi,
New at this, but have had the Andersen windows for over 20 years. The case is cracked so I am going to replace the case.
The crack works when opening the window, but will not work when I try to close it, just keeps turning. Do I need to replace the crank (handle) or anything else?

Sorry, typo above the Crank.

Andersen sells to parts. These cranks fail often, and if you do not keep the track super clean and lubricated, you will learn to hate them.

Also, I think that leaving the window partially open strains the mechanism due to the wind hitting the window pane and continually putting a stress on the worm gear retaining system. After years of this, it is bound to wear out.

It was a little difficult to grasp the instructions but after I quit looking at the pin end of the worm gear and focused on the bushing just under the plastic shroud it made sense. The housing material is quite soft and I tapped in many points with a medium screwdriver and it worked great. If it happens again I'll just repeat the process! Thanks to all!!

I had a hard time hammering. The odd shape made it difficult to lay it so the hammering forces were going straight down.

Then I realized I could just crush it a bit with my bench vice. Worked great.

We have Andersen 7073B single arm operators, and it seems we have the same problem with the spindle worm gear. I haven’t tried to remove the spindle, but unfortunately the metal case covers all but the area with the arm; and don’t see any seam that would indicate the cover could be removed. Will have to try to punch the spindle back into place and see if it holds.

Thank you for this thread. Tried the BV001448 and Simon "cold chisel" approach and it worked! Still taking care to baby it when closing...

Thank you for this thread. Tried the BV001448 and Simon "cold chisel" approach and it worked! Still taking care to baby it when closing...

i had this same "pop-out" issue and I fixed it as bv001448 recommended. Worked great! heres a pic:
make sure you push the brass bushing all the way in and ya gotta hit the operator casing pretty hard to make the dents, be careful not to break your window!

good luck, steve in MD

i had to register to post pix:

ok maybe not! how do we post pix here! i attached the files to my posts!