What is a soft water loop?
2. Many people have the mistaken belief that softened water has a high salt content and/or that softened water has a disagreeable taste.
3. Why softened water on the cold side? Have you ever seen a toilet with hard water stains? If you have really hard water you want the cold side softened to get all the benefits of softened water.
4. I've never heard of a soft water loop, but it sounds like nothing more than extra plumbing. Its easy to keep the softened water out of the cold side.
The primary reason for this type of plumbing is found on slab foundations where a softener as an 'after-thought' is very difficult mostly due to the plumbing arrangement where some water will be treated, say in a kitchen and laundry, but remote baths and showers may not fall into that loop.
Are you on a slab foundation?
In other houses with basements or crawl spaces, it a loop is included just to make a softener hook-up easier.
Loops are often found in garages or outside in warmer climates. Where is yours located?
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
Often the outside bibs are by-passed and not treated.
here's the lowdown: Yes my brand new home is on a slab. The builder did not install "a preplumb loop" in the house. So, when I went to my nearby home improvment store to purchase a h2o softener system, their first question was if my home had a loop? Since it did not, I was only offered the pricey option to have one installed during the h2o softener install. Did I have a choice?
So my question is this? What exactly is a soft water plumbing loop? Why is it neccessary? Can a soft water system be installed without one?
I was quoted a price to have a plumbing loop installed by the same reputable nationwide home improvement
store. Please describe what plumbing lines are added/ reconfigured when an aftermarket install occurs (slab foundation)?
Thanks y'all tommy
These spots noramlly offer the best location.
So, for the last time, if anyone can honestly explain to me in basic english
Q#1)how a softwater loop is configured?
Q#2)Why it might be needed & how it should look after a non-preplumbed installation!??
Please and Thank You Tom
ps>Where the heck is Bob Vila and his help?
"As helpful as Andy~qwerty999 has tried to be in explaining what a soft water loop is, it's apparent that he does not know the answer."
Well, that was pretty decent of you. I mean I gave you the Reader's Digest" versaion but let me try to make it even simplier.
This was my response:
"Simply put, it is a location in the water line--before the water heater--where all water that you want to be treated has to pass through."
Your water softener should intersect the plumbing--those are the pipe things--between where your water comes into the house--that building you live in-- and all other faucets, baths, showers, dishwashers, laundry units and water heaters (I could go on but I think you are following me, right?)
Of course the actual location is impossible for me to tell you as you are not providing builder blueprints.
If you are in warm weather climate, you may have to dig a hole in your yard to meet the pipe before it comes into the house.
I cold climates a leanto may be added to your construction to house and keep the equipment warm. Occasionally the plumbing in your house may be such as to allow an indoor installation, which would typically be near the water heater.
The plumbing would look like a striaght pipe with two tees and two elbow forming a D shape in the plumbing with valves between each tee and elbow and between each tee as well. The middle valve would be your by-pass and usually stays shut when the softener is on and open when no equipment is installed.
You need one so that all your plumbing can be treated. As I said before, many slab foundation constuction plans didn't take into consideration loops for water treatment so you may have to do some major repiping.
Boy, I am not sure I can make it any planer than that. Hope that helped.
Andy Christensen, CWS-II
As amusing as it is to see you disrespect someone for trying to help you maybe I can...
A water softener loop is pipe that is exposed in a service area such as a utility or mechanical room or garage where the main water service entering the house is accessible to interrupt and install an appliance that would treat or service the entire plumbing system in the house.
For example, it is really as simple as the main water service pipe entering the outer garage wall from the water meter outside, going up the inside of the wall, exiting the wall at a 90 degree angle into the garage, going 6" or 12" and then going back into the wall at a 90 degree angle and servicing the plumbing in the house. The 6" to 12" of pipe exposed in the garage is the water softener loop.
To install a softener or a whole house filter a competent plumber would cut that exposed loop and plumb a service and return to the appliance. The appliance would be treating the entire water supply to the entire house where the water service enters the house.
If a home is plumbed with a softener loop there is usually a drain nearby and an AC outlet. If that is there then installing a softener is relatively easy. Softener loops can come out of the wall or in slab construction I've seen them come up from the floor... plumbers can be so creative.
If the house has no softener loop then there's a lot more work to do. You need to interrupt the water service and add the loop, or plumb the softener, before the water service branches out in the house in all the different directions it always does. You'll also need a drain for when the softener regenerates and an AC outlet, although Kinetico softeners do not require electricity.
To add a softener loop or plumb a softener in a ranch style home on a slab one would locate where the water service enters the house and then dig it out, interrupt it, plumb it to an easy entry like a garage, plumb the softener in the garage, add a drain, and return the line to where the service was interrupted.
Lots of work and can cost you but the right way to do it.
In some climates a softener can be installed outside and I've seen a few nifty Kinetico installs with the softener neatly buried in the ground since they don't require electricity.
1)If a newer home has been preplumbed w/a loop as normally seen coming out ,across 12" then back into the wall next to a water heater. Would that mean that the pipe exiting the wall is from the main water supply?(excluding possible branches to outside spigots?)If plumbed correctly, the pipe returning into the wall would then go to? a)just the hot water heater? b)back into the wall with a T-connection to the water heater and the other path being the cold supply?
If there is a branch after the loop, would that make all water in the house softened? kitchen,bathrooms,showers,icemaker lines etc.?
Space permitting, can a water softener be installed (most likely next to the water heater) in a home that is not pre plumbed with a loop? If so, would that mean that only the hot water side would be softened? What are the pros and cons of that scenario?
So basically, when a plumbing loop is pre installed in a new home, the entire length of pipe needed would be in the 2ft-3ft range and +/-4 elbows?
Assuming a unit is installed w/out a loop, resulting in only hot water softened, wouldn't that be desirable? or not?
What if any are the drawbacks using softened water in the water heater?
If you can answer me these questions, I'll buy you a cold beer!
thanks buddy Tom
Plumbed properly, a softener install, will intersect the main water service where it enters the house. Some people, from the old days will plumb a house so the softener softens everything BUT the kitchen sink and outside hose bibs but that is getting less and less common. Using KCl (potassium chloride) instead of NaCl (sodium chloride) to regenerate the softener softened water no longer kills house plants so it's quicker and cheaper for a plumber to put the softener loop in the main water service during new construction.
Softening only the hot side came along when retro fitting softeners in existing houses so the home owners wouldn't have a heart attack when they saw the price of the install. Competent and professional softener installers will explain the difference in the two methods, quote prices for both, and then the home owner can understand the difference and make an informed choice. Door to door snake oil softener salesman often only mention(ed) softening the hot side so the install is cheaper and they can sell a softener.
With 28gpg hard water you want to do this the right way and not throw good money after bad.
I was in the same situation as you... moved into a ranch style home on a slab and realized I had 26-30g hardness water. I had the softener install done the right way. Brought in a backhoe guy, a really good plumber, and it cost about $800 to do what I described in my previous post.
Added a reverse osmosis (RO) unit under the sink for cooking, drinking, and icemaker water.
In 12 years, haven't replaced a faucet washer and the water heater is going on 11 years when the neighbors replace them every 2 years or so and the icemaker still makes nifty clear ice cubes.
Most plumbers really don't understand water treatment and in all fairness they don't want to. Find a local water treatment professional and have them come out and quote you a price with a proper install. Then you'll have a base line to compare other solutions to.
Lastly, for the most reliable and long term service avoid Sears, Lowes, Home Depot, and the like when shopping for water softeners. Find a local water treatment professional who sell industry standard softeners and who will service what they sell.
"What if any are the drawbacks using softened water in the water heater?"
No drawback to softened water in the water heater. In fact, softened water will remove hard water deposits in the water heater, pipes, and fixtures over time, but there may be a considerate amount of sediment and hard water deposits built up in the water heater already with 28gpg hard water and that might never go away.
It's best to start a new appliance out on soft water.
"If you can answer me these questions, I'll buy you a cold beer!"
I'd prefer you apologize to those who tried to help you and not blame them for your inability to understand really basic plumbing.
Good luck and let us know how you decide to proceed.
This is your reply: "I'd prefer you apologize to those who tried to help you and not blame them for your inability to understand really basic plumbing".
I'm assuming that your refering to my comment to querty999 after he failed to answer any one of my questions correctly. I've already used the word apology in a reply to him. That's all he's gonna get from me. I'm sure that he meant well in any one of his worthless replies. If you re-read the posted thread from the start, each one of his replies was nothing but fluff. You answered my query in 2 posts, whereas querty999 never once came close to giving a direct answer. Thanks again pal.
Hope that helps.
Have no idea what a SWL does, or how. However, the current devices I have seen are cream-color-painted cylinders about 8 or 9 inches in both length and diameter that sits on the top of the water tank. Looks like a mini-propane tank with a seam around the middle.
My guess would be it is nothing more than fittings with an expansion chamber for a soft-water system.
Have you asked a soft water company???
However, some degree of remedy must typically be supplied to impure municipal wastewater before it is able to be used for agricultural or landscape irrigation or for aquaculture. The material of effluent PAC water treatment utilized in agriculture has a remarkable solid impact on the operation and performance of the wastewater-soil-plant or aquaculture system.
In the case of irrigation, the required property of effluent will depend upon the crop or plants to be irrigated, the soil conditions and the device of effluent distribution adopted. Through crop limit and choice of irrigation systems that limit health risk, the diploma of pre-software wastewater treatment may be reduced. A similar approach is not possible in aquaculture systems and more reliance will have to be located on manage through wastewater remedy.
Water Treatment Steps
Coagulation and Flocculation
Coagulation and flocculation are frequently the primary steps in water remedy. Chemicals with a positive price are delivered to the water. The positive rate of these chemicals neutralizes the negative price of dirt and exclusive dissolved particles inside the water. When this occurs, the particles bind with the chemicals and form large particles, called floc.
Once the floc has settled to the bottom of the water supply, the clear water on pinnacle will bypass thru filters of varying compositions (sand, gravel, and charcoal) and pore sizes, so that you can remove dissolved particles, which incorporates dust, parasites, bacteria, viruses, and chemical compounds.
After the water has been filtered, a disinfectant (for example, chlorine, chloramine) may be introduced a good way to kill any final parasites, bacteria, and viruses, and to protect the water from germs when it's miles piped to homes and businesses.
During sedimentation, floc settles to the lowest of the water supply, because of its weight. This settling system is referred to as sedimentation.
Household Water Treatment
Even although regulations and set requirements for public drinking water are present, many Americans use a domestic water treatment unit to:
Remove precise contaminants
Take greater precautions due to the fact a family member has a compromised immune machine
Improve the taste of drinking water
Household water remedy structures are composed of two categories: point-of-use and point-of-entryExternal (NSF). Point-of-entry structures are commonly mounted after the water meter and deal with most of the water coming into a residence.
Point-of-use systems are structures that treat water in batches and deliver water to a tap, consisting of a kitchen or lavatory sink or an auxiliary faucet hooked up subsequent to a tap.
This is the reason relevant and precise water solutions have to be adopted such as the poly aluminum chloride in water treatment.