08:25PM | 04/05/05
Member Since: 04/05/05
1 lifetime posts
My wife and I have recently installed a brand new acrylic bathtub (it's a 3' x 6' whirlpool tub) in an old house we've been renovating. The bath tub is hooked up to a brand new ABS DWV system we installed to replace the old blackpipe and steel. When we emptied the first test fill of the bathtub, there were no leaks, but there was a tremendous racket. Truly horendous! (You could hear it all the way across the house.) The noise is the noise of water draining (a bit like a gurgle), and it starts about 5-10 seconds after the drain is opened. If we let the drain continue to drain, the sound is continuous. If we close the drain and re-open it, it runs silently for the first few seconds and then starts making this noise again. Anyone know what this phenomenon is? Any ideas on how to fix it?


12:12AM | 04/06/05
Member Since: 04/01/05
47 lifetime posts
You have a bad venting problem. This can be corrected by placing a Studor vent in the line as close to the tub as possible. Studor is a brand name and should not be confussed with an automatic plumbing vent or mini vent. The Studor vent can be placed in a tee cut into the line. That will allow enough air to be pulled into the line to improve the flow in the drain. Right now it is air starved and is pulling it through your waste and overflow instead of the vent system. Studor vents are available from any wholesale plumbing distributor and the cost is approx. $20. They are available in the size that you need for that drain. The Studor that you want fits 1-1/2-2". You shouldn't have a problem finding one of these in your local area, but if you do I can ship one to your home UPS. You can contact me at [email protected] if you want the product or have any other questions. The bath drain for that volume of water should have been increased to 2" when you piped in the tub. That may not have corrected the problem if the venting was still not good enough. Best wishes.. Kerry Bonham Oh, I also can be reached at 410-760-2801 at the office. Above is the link to Studor information.


01:16PM | 04/19/06
Member Since: 01/24/06
1626 lifetime posts
Me office1
Welcome to the wonderful world of plastic the noisy piping systems and improper venting

Even Charlotte piping corporation the manufacturer of plastic and cast iron say for quiet trouble free systems use cast iron and to be cheap use plastic on venting

Replacing the steel pipe which you thought was "Black" was either no hub cast iron or painted galvanized steel piping.. "black steel" is used on either steam, hydronics, or gas piping never on drainage as the oxygen in the water would corrode it out with in a very short time.

Installing a vent indoors is always a great idea if a person is looking to sell the house and has total disregard to possible sewer fumes entering the structure.

Only someone who has total disregard for quality of life issues would allow a device to possibly fail, relying on a piece of rubber to protect the inhabitants from sewer fumes which contains methane, carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrous oxides. In addition, chlorine bleaches, industrial solvents, and gasoline are frequently present in municipal and privately owned-sewage treatment systems.

Sewer gas is a complex mixture of toxic and non-toxic gases that can be present at varying levels depending upon the source.

It is formed during the decay of household and industrial waste. Highly toxic components of sewer gas include hydrogen sulfide and ammonia.

Sewer gas also contains methane, carbon dioxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrous oxides. In addition, chlorine bleaches

The principal risks and effects associated with exposure are:

Hydrogen sulfide poisoning. Exposure to low levels of hydrogen sulfide causes irritation of the eyes and respiratory tract. Other symptoms include nervousness, dizziness, nausea, headache, and drowsiness.

This gas smells like rotten eggs, even at extremely low concentrations. Exposure to high concentrations can interfere with the sense of smell, making this warning signal unreliable. At extremely high levels, hydrogen sulfide can cause immediate loss of consciousness and death.

Asphyxiation. Methane acts like carbon monoxide, blocking oxygen in the blood, and can similarly cause suffocation and death at high levels. Exposure to lower levels can produce flu-like symptoms such as headache, nausea, and drowsiness. Breathing undiluted sewer gas, even for short periods, as in a municipal sewer line or a manure storage tank, can result in suffocation and death. Sewer gas diffuses and mixes into indoor air, and will be most concentrated where it is entering. It can accumulate in basements.

Explosion and fire. Methane and hydrogen sulfide are flammable and highly explosive.

YUP using a vent INDOORS rather then spend the money to hire a professional licensed master plumber who knows how to vent fixtures properly is the way to go IF you plan on selling the home and have total disregard to quality of life issues.

This is your home and it is an investment VENT all fixtures to the out doors and have the venting connect to a vent terminal on the roof.

There are some folks who just don't know or have been poorly trained and dabble in plumbing who never bothered to attend a five year apprenticeship training program and thus think AAV's are the way to save money and do not take the ramifications of product failures into account

By the way you do know that your new tub with 2 ft of water in it will weigh in @ 2,250 pounds not including people or the weight of the tub itself and of course you took this load factor into consideration prior to the installation?

Good luck Sylvan Tieger,LMP


05:29PM | 02/01/09
Member Since: 01/31/09
2 lifetime posts
Wow.. The other two replies immediately assume you have a venting problem... I'm assuming you had your installation inspected (especially for DWV)

I'm not a plumber, but I am an experienced DIY'er.

I recently installed a 22" tall 30x60 acrylic tub, with a brass/copper drain/overflow combination. The first one I installed was a rear drain type - also referred to as an indirect drain. The tub drain feeds into a T horizontally, and the overflow feeds into the same T vertically.. Then down it goes into the P-trap.

The other type of drain (which I replaced it with, to make things a bit more quiet - which it didn't!) is a diret drain type. The overflow returns back to the drain, similar to many types of vanity sinks. I ended up changing it because my brand new cable drive indirect drain had a manufacturer's defect in it, and had to be replaced..

So anyhow, THE NOISE IS MOST LIKELY NORMAL!!! If you had no overflow, then you'd have no noise. The only thing that strikes me as odd is that there is a "delay" in when your noise starts. Mine starts making noise almost right away when the stopper is open (about 1 second, or less).

Go test a friend's tub.. I did, and I wasn't surprised that ALL tubs with an overflow make noise.

Solution? I've never seen one, but a P-trap on the overflow would probably stop it.. but most likely cause other problems! :)

Lastly, your tub doesn't hold 2,250 lbs of water based on the supplied info.

One US gallon of water weighs 8.35lbs. Assuming the exterior dimension of the tub (which will add up to way more volume than what the tub holds), 36*72*24/231*8.35=1873.8lbs (231ci=1gallon of water).

Your tub probably holds 1400 lbs of water to the overflow, not 2,250 plus the weight of the tub and people as was mentioned.


06:53AM | 02/02/09
Member Since: 01/24/06
1626 lifetime posts
Me office1
"Solution? I've never seen one, but a P-trap on the overflow would probably stop it.. but most likely cause other problems! :)"

Lets see placing a "P" trap on the over flow mmmmmmmm guess being a DIY means its ok to double trap a fixture in spite of what the codes requires as being a non skilled DIY means its alright to by pass codes and good plumbing practices.

I wonder how someone can snake the line properly when faced with two traps or that doesn't matter when giving inept advice

The math for figuring weight is the same any first year apprentice would use with one exception a helper would ask WHAT Temperature is the water as the colder the water the heavier but a DIY person will never allow facts to get in the way of giving advice.

Just because someone works on a car does not make them a decent mechanic..the same with plumbing as they are doing things wrong but have no idea as to codes and materials or why someone would waste their time going to a 5 year apprenticeship to learn the basics of a trade.


03:21PM | 02/02/09
Member Since: 01/31/09
2 lifetime posts
so an overflow should never make noise when draining a tub?


08:50AM | 12/20/15
Try this old trick. Go to a craft store and buy two feet of 100% copper chain. Get a Stainless steel toilet chain hook, and crimp small end over chain end. Pull the drain stopper, plug drain with a rag and fill tub. Pull the plug and let the water pull the chain down the drain, carefully place the toilet chain hook over the drain cross. This will not work on drains with an internal stopper.. I.E. You have a strainer over the drain opening, but these type rarely make noise. Size of the chain is close to a toilet chain, we used to use these when they were copper. Only use 100% copper as it won't foul.


11:26PM | 03/08/16
Sylvan....what a douche
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