Latest Discussions : Painting


10:47AM | 06/24/04
Member Since: 12/01/02
93 lifetime posts
When hanging drywall for a 9' ceiling, is there an accepted industry practice for where the 1' strip goes? On the bottom, in the middle or on top? I've seen someone put it in the middle but it would seem along the bottom would be less noticeable. Hopefully, if done correctly, it would not be noticeable at all....

I'm assuming our base trim and crown molding (if used) will be substantially less than 12" so there is no chance of covering the seam.

Any thoughts? Thanks.


11:07AM | 06/24/04
Member Since: 07/01/03
549 lifetime posts
When applying drywall to a 9-foot tall wall, there are a couple ways to go. Its more a matter of personal preference, and not a right or wrong way.

First, you can get 9 or 10 foot drywall sheets and apply them vertically. This way every seam has a finished edge and tapes vertically very easily. There is nothing to lift above waist level. I cut the first sheet to meet the stud spacing from the corner, then use full sheets to the end of the wall. Since I do a fairly good job of tape and texture, this is what I do.

You can also apply standard sheets horizontally. When I do this in a tall room, I lay the first sheet on 1/2 inch spacers to keep the drywall off the floor. I place the 1-foot piece in the center, and lift the final piece on top of that. Why? Because its easier to work with the major seam without standing on a ladder or stooping. I find that finishing the butt seams created by this method are harder than the vertical application method, so, I dont do it anymore.

Others may do it differently.


05:02PM | 06/24/04
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
You know that they make 4 1/2' wide drywall and that way you will have only one seam on the side walls.


10:10AM | 06/25/04
Member Since: 07/01/03
549 lifetime posts
5slb6, I have seen the 54 x 12 x 1/2 drywall at the supplier, but can't handle it (too heavy, too awkward to move). But you are right, it would be the ideal solution to minimize seams. I'll stick with the 4x9 applied vertically.

US Gypsum provides their contractor handbook online. Chapter 3 discusses this issue at:

Excerpt "For wall application, if ceiling height is 8'1" or less, perpendicular application of standard 4' wide panels results in fewer joints, easier handling and less cutting. If ceiling height is greater than 8'1" or wall is 4 ft. wide or less, parallel application is more practical."

Parallel means vertical (parallel to studs)

Perpendicular means horizontal.

Complete contractor manual link:

Hope this is useful.


11:12AM | 06/25/04
Member Since: 12/01/02
93 lifetime posts
Thanks all for the info. This definitely helps.


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08:29AM | 10/21/20
Vertical Only, here’s the proof & truth!

1 – Defective Seam - Horizontal rows needing more than one drywall panel creates (instead of avoids) butt-joint humps, which are not flat and are a twice (minimum) the effort defect. Outlet and switch cover-plates, window and door trim, baseboards, pictures, mirrors and cabinets don’t sit flat. Using any "butt-joint product" erases all "claimed" benefits of Horizontal!

2 – Unsupported Seam – Horizontal’s tapered edge is 90% unsupported, only 10% (instead of Vertical's 100%) contacts framing, the seam will and does crack. Light switch and countertop electrical boxes within the seam equals more weakness and butt-joint doubled, minimum, efforts.

3 – Structural Defect - Horizontal only reinforces a wall height of 4’ or less, a full-height wall's top-plate is never connected to the bottom plate. As in and due to #2 above, Frictional Contact is minimized (instead of maximized by Vertical).

4 – Seam Deception...4'x8' Panels – Example 1: 48” tall by 102” long wall, Horizontal = 48” (technically) and it’s a 24” wide butt-joint or a minimum of doubling the 48" (Vertical = the same, generously, 96” but they’re easy 6” wide joints). Example 2: 96” tall by 102” long wall, Horizontal = 222” with 50% being 24” wide butts (Vertical = 192” of 6” wide easy joints, yes less) a Kitchen Horizontal = 100% of 24” wide butts (Vertical = 0%). Yes, Horizontal does the taper area twice (minimum) in order to hide its butts, so very minimally just another 24” was added and #5 below was not factored into Horizontal's monumental fraud.

5 – Self-Defeating Angles – Horizontal only uses one of a panel’s tapered edges and puts the other taper at the ceiling corner and baseboard creating (instead of avoiding like Vertical) a twisted angle that must be shimmed or additionally mudded. This too, instantly erases all "claimed" benefits of Horizontal by doubling the seam amount, patching itself to equal Vertical!

6 – Unfriendly Seams – Horizontal celebrates the chest height seam and pretends there’s no 24”-wide floor to ceiling butt-joint and the ever present baseboard bevel of unfinished work. (Vertical has easy joints and the top's screwed, taped and mudded later with the ceiling corner and the baseboard spots can also be done separately).

7 - Fire Hazard Liability - Horizontal only fills the coin-thin seam's face and has no back blocking, causing smoke and fire’s spread by inviting fuel air for a fire's growth (Vertical is full depth and airtight once simply screwed-in).

8 - Unsafe Installation - Horizontal needs 2-people for a safe installation and the panel is airborne, literally creating the chance to cause injury (Vertical easily tilts-up with just 1-person). Using a panel lifter isn’t even as easy and safe as Vertical’s tilt-up.

9 - Additional Waste - When correctly covering a knee wall, half wall, tub front, column or soffit by first removing both tapered edges, Horizontal can't use the tapers elsewhere (Vertical can and does). And, Horizontal wastes 4-times the mud on their completely unnecessary butt-joints and baseboard bevels...if ever done.

10 - Destructive Ignorance - Foundation and Framing crews go to great pains to make everything flat, level, plumb and square. Horizontal destroys those efforts with their defective humps and baseboard bevels (Vertical keeps the perfection).

11 - Grasping At Straws with Outright Fraud - Horizontals falsely and unknowingly wave the absurdly invalid (FPL439) 1983 testing “Contribution of Gypsum Wallboard to Racking Resistance of Light-Frame Walls” by the self-convicted fraud Ronald W. Wolfe. FPL439 found that all tapered paper wrapped edges must be fully intact for Horizontal to beat Vertical, period. In the real-world, Horizontal's bottom paper wrapped edge is removed by law, for spacing from all floors and thereby completely negate Wolfe’s inexcusably deceitful and worthless "study" (laughable) and summation.

12 - Joint or Seam Treatment - According to the ASTM's C840 8.2, Horizontal's seams must be mudded to provide any fire, smoke and air travel resistance (Vertical's so good that it's not required to have its seams treated at all).

13 - Costly Slow Complication - Horizontal's depend upon pricey special muds and even messy tape or taping tools that waste mud. Taping tools still require a 2nd step of knifing the tape and the muds require a mixing step. That's more expense, more time, more tools and equipment and more water...for an inferior job! Vertical's superior with the cheapest ready-mix bucket muds and dry self-adhesive tape. Again, Vertical's seam treatment is just for looks.

14 - Fire Rating Fail - Most Single-ply or Single-layer drywall for Commercial Work is required to be installed Vertically, to obtain drywall's actual rating. This is well-known by the majority of Horizontals, but you and your children don't matter to a Horizontal. And for what, to honor the frauds that taught them wrong?

Only promote Horizontal as wrong and confidently cite the above incontestable facts.

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