The Best Weed Killers for Your Lawn and Garden

Destroy dandelion, crabgrass, and other garden invaders the easy way with one of these top-rated weed killers.

The Best Weed Killer Options

Whether they crop up on your lawn, in a flower bed, or along the perimeter of a fence, weeds are the gardener’s age-old enemy. They make your yard unsightly, your walkway unkempt, and they compete with neighboring plants for sunlight, water, and nutrients, causing your cherished plants to weaken and be susceptible to pests and disease. Weed species can even spread and disrupt natural habitats. Worst of all, weeds just seem to keep coming back no matter what you do.

Fortunately, homeowners have a few options for weeding these invaders out for good: deadheading weeds with garden shears or a weed wacker (cutting off the tops), removing them from the soil by hand, or using weed killers. Of these methods, deadheading is generally useful only for annual plants that don’t have extensive root systems and that die when the tops are separated from the roots. Pulling weeds by hand, meanwhile, is impractical if you have large number of weeds due to the effort involved (not least because doing so effectively requires digging up the roots to keep them from growing back). The limits of these manual methods make commercial weed killers the more fail-safe, flexible option for eradicating weeds—provided you choose the right one for the job.

When applied as instructed, the best weed killer reduces the risk of herbicide failure—such as weeds not dying after an application or appearing to die and then returning—allowing you to avoid costly and time-consuming product re-applications. Read on to learn what to look for in a weed killer and why we rated the following six products as the best weed killer options on the market.

  1. BEST PRE-EMERGENT WEED KILLER: The Andersons Pro Turf Barricade Granular Pre-Emergent Weed Control
  2. BEST POST-EMERGENT WEED KILLER: Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed & Grass Killer
  3. BEST SELECTIVE WEED KILLER: Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer
  4. BEST CONTACT WEED KILLER: Spectracide Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate
  5. BEST SYSTEMIC WEED KILLER: Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns
The Best Weed Killer Options

Key Considerations for Choosing a Weed Killer

The type of weed killer you choose will dictate where you apply it, at which growth stage to apply it, which types of weeds it will kill, how it will impact plants nearby, and how long it will control weeds. This means that even a well-reviewed weed killer that’s not designed to solve your specific weed problem can result in product failures, and, hence, lingering weeds. To maximize product performance and minimize the risk of herbicide failure, factor in the following properties when choosing the right commercial weed killer for the job.

Emergence

Emergence refers to the stage of weed growth at which you must apply the weed killer.

  • Pre-emergent weed killers, sometimes labeled as “weed preventers,” target and kill the germinating (sprouting) seedlings of weeds before they emerge from the soil as weeds you can see. You generally apply them to the soil of lawns or gardens before you see signs of weeds; they will form a chemical barrier in the top layer of soil that will stop the growth of seedlings underground, in effect killing them.
  • Post-emergent weed killers, also known as herbicides, are used to control existing weeds that have already emerged from the soil. Apply them to the leaves and/or stems of visible weeds in garden beds or driveway or sidewalk cracks; the chemicals will kill the weeds either by destroying the foliage or stems or traveling down to the roots and killing the whole root system.

Selectivity

Selectivity is the ability of a weed killer to destroy weeds but leave surrounding plants unharmed.

  • Selective weed killers destroy weeds but not turfgrass or other beneficial plants in the vicinity, making them a good option for eradicating, for example, dandelions or thistles on the lawn or in a flower bed.
  • Non-selective weed killers eradicate weeds along with any other plants in the application area. Use them along the fence or pool or in driveway or sidewalk cracks, where you won’t put beneficial plants at risk.

Translocation

Translocation describes the movement of the product within a weed once it is taken up through the leaves, stems, or roots of the plant.

  • Contact weed killers don’t move within a weed after they enter it; rather, they kill the weed by destroying the plant part to which you apply them, usually within hours to days of application. They’re commonly used on annual weeds, such as crabgrass, nettle, and chickweed, which are easier to kill than perennial plants and generally die when the foliage or stems are destroyed.
  • Systemic weed killers move within a weed after they are absorbed, usually down to the roots, destroying the whole plant from the bottom up. You can expect to wait several days to several weeks to see results, although unlike contact weed killers, systemic products generally won’t state the specific period of time it takes to kill weeds. They’re a good option for perennial weeds, such as dandelion, poison ivy, or ragweed, which are typically more difficult to kill because of their deeper roots.

Persistence

Persistence is a measure of how long after application a weed killer remains in the soil and provides weed control before you have to reapply it.

  • More temporary weed killers degrade in soil within a few days to weeks, which forces you to reapply the product often to keep weeds at bay but allows you to quickly replant other plants in the area without interrupting their growth. This makes them a better option for gardens where you intend to plant flowers or vegetables in the near future or places where weeds seldom grow, like gaps between paver stones in the yard.
  • Longer-lasting weed killers stay in the soil and keep new weeds from growing in the application area for months or even a year after application. They’re a good option for lawns or gardens where you need lasting weed control, but they can also inhibit the germination of new plants you grow in the area for a longer period of time, so don’t use in areas where you plan to add new crops in the near future.

Our Top Picks for Weed Killers

These are the best weed killers to reach for when it comes to taming a yard or garden overrun by unwelcome plants.



The Best Weed Killer Option: The Andersons Pro Turf Barricade Granular Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Photo: amazon.com

1. BEST PRE-EMERGENT WEED KILLER: The Andersons Pro Turf Barricade Granular Pre-Emergent Weed Control

Nip baby weeds in the bud with this selective pre-emergent weed killer that’s best used on turfgrass or garden beds. It prevents over 30 types of weeds from growing without harming most trees, shrubs, vines, or flowers nearby. Apply this granular weed killer to the soil or mulch and then water or wait for the rain to establish a protective soil barrier that blocks weed growth for four months to one year. Formulated with prodiamine, one of the longest-lasting and most inexpensive weed preventers on the market, one 18-pound bag covers between 2,500 to 10,000 square feet.



The Best Weed Killer Option: Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed & Grass Killer

Photo: amazon.com

2. BEST POST-EMERGENT WEED KILLER: Green Gobbler Vinegar Weed & Grass Killer

Sold in a one-gallon bottle that covers 1,200 square feet, this non-selective post-emergent herbicide kills crabgrass, dandelion, and other pesky weeds on contact using a potent, pet-safe vinegar formula. Because it’s a non-specific weed killer, it’s best used near fence lines, pools, and patios, or in driveway or sidewalk cracks. To apply, fill a pump sprayer with the liquid herbicide or attach the supplied trigger sprayer, then point and spray; the fast-acting product kills weeds within 24 hours and degrades in soil within days.



The Best Weed Killer Option: Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer

Photo: amazon.com

3. BEST SELECTIVE WEED KILLER: Southern Ag Amine 24-D Weed Killer

This selective post-emergent herbicide targets weeds like dandelion and chickweed but does not affect plants that aren’t weeds. Dilute two to three tablespoons of the liquid concentrate in three to five gallons of water and spread with a hand-pump sprayer or a hose-end sprayer. It’s labeled for use on lawns, pastures, rangelands, and along fences. The product provides weed control for six months to one year depending on the application site, and the one-quart bottle covers 21,000 to 32,000 square feet.



The Best Weed Killer Option: Spectracide Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate

Photo: amazon.com

4. BEST CONTACT WEED KILLER: Spectracide Weed & Grass Killer Concentrate

Suitable for use around flowers, trees, shrubs, and walkways, this non-selective post-emergent weed killer harnesses the fast-acting herbicide diquat dibromide to kill weeds and other vegetation on contact. Dilute 10 tablespoons of the liquid concentrate in a gallon of water, apply with a tank sprayer to the foliage of weeds like dandelion, clover, and ivy, and watch as they wilt within three hours and die within 24 hours; you can reapply it after seven days. The 16-ounce concentrate covers up to 1,500 square feet.



The Best Weed Killer Option: Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns

Photo: amazon.com

5. BEST SYSTEMIC WEED KILLER: Ortho Nutsedge Killer for Lawns

Slay the most stubborn of weeds with this sulfentrazone-based selective post-emergent herbicide that is designed for use on turfgrass. It eliminates 50 hard-to-kill weeds like purple nutsedge and kyllinga without damaging the grass or tolerant surrounding plants listed on the package. Application is a breeze with the liquid formula and built-in hose-end sprayer: Just connect the sprayer to your hose, turn on the water, and spray the systemic herbicide directly on weeds. You can reapply the herbicide after one month, and the 32-ounce bottle covers up to 5,000 square feet.