12:05PM | 01/18/03
Member Since: 01/17/03
2 lifetime posts
I've started a project today that I've been putting off for a while- replacing a bunch of rotten/delaminated siding on my house. When I started the project I realized that removing the siding is not easy. I was installed with the spiral shank nails that do a good job of staying in the studs. My question is, is there an easier way of removing the siding other than using a pry bar and a hammer? At the rate I am going it will take forever to finish this project.


04:40PM | 01/20/03
Member Since: 01/03/03
97 lifetime posts
thats about the only way. I am assuming you are using a flat bar and a hammer, you may also want to get a roofing "shin dig" same thing they use to remove old shingles, it has a wide head and a long handle you may have better luck with that.


07:18PM | 01/21/03
You might also try a "Cat's Paw" it is a short bar that you can drive in behind the nail heads.


07:30PM | 01/21/03
Member Since: 01/03/03
97 lifetime posts
good call on the cats paw they work well too just not as fast, and you might wear yourself out


06:59PM | 01/24/03
Member Since: 11/06/02
1280 lifetime posts
Here's my concern on this situation.

Most homes built with T-111 for siding have no underlying sheathing. The T-111 serves as both structural sheathing/shear panel and siding at once. When you get it off, you have no resistance to racking in the wall. It could tilt off plumb.

By pounding with hammer on the cats paw, you introduce lots of vibrations to the wall and the fasteners holding drywall to the inside of the same studs might pop little flaws in the interior walls, adding more repairs to your already cumbersome and dangerous job.

In situations like this, it is better to retire the T-111 to an underlying sheathing status and go over it with a layer of new siding IMO. It can be same or vinyl or cedar shingles or Cement board or whatever.


06:20PM | 01/25/03
The cats paw won't put any more vibrations into the wall than a hammer and crowbar. If you are worried about shear stability, once you have two sheets down from the corner, screw a 1x4 diagonally at the corner. I would think that for the short time the T 1-11 is removed you would find that the drywall on the inside would induce more shear strength than you think.
I would NOT leave rotting delaminating T 1-11 as a sheathing, just asking for future problems.
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