Latest Discussions : Flooring & Stairs


07:46PM | 05/10/07
Member Since: 03/04/05
33 lifetime posts
Hello all. I have posted here before and gotten great advice. Over time I have learned from you all, experience, other research - and I'd like to run this one by you.

I have a 1986 townhouse, 960 sq ft, with a 16' floor span, 2' struss system 24" OC. Currently I have laminate wood flooring on the first floor. There is some spring in the floor. From underneath, I cannot see that any of the subfoor is disconnected from the trusses, and I checked because I was told this could be a problem. Here's the question...:

Would I be better off installing hardi-backer board, approximately 675 sq ft, and placing a wood laminate, engineered wood, or solid hardwood on top? or trying to sister the trusses (every other??) or box them in???

If I were to leave the trusses as is and install the hardibacker, should the cement board be glued and screwed? If I am to control from below, should I use plywood or 2x8 to box in the trusses? I want little to no bounce, given the stats above.

I'd like to spend $5-$7 a square foot to replace the current flooring which would include a 48 sq ft kitchen, 40 sq ft bathroom and small laundry area (24 sq ft) which could (should?) be tile. ANY suggestions, comments, tips are appreciated. Please see the property sketch attached.

Thanks in advance!!!


7308 reinforce my floor


07:56AM | 05/11/07
Member Since: 03/08/06
192 lifetime posts
myself, I would go to and calculate the best possible scenero for deflection. If it is good enough for tile, than it probably won't sqeak with hardwood.

play with floor thickness and joist width. Myself, I will always try to sister joists with matching widths.


03:48PM | 05/11/07
Member Since: 07/03/05
283 lifetime posts
With a 24" OC system, you cannot put Hardibacker or any cement board down on the subflooring. Cement boards do not offer any structural strength to a floor, additional layer of underlayment plywood would be needed to do that. Cement boards are not warranted by their manufacturers to be put on any floor over 19.2" OC. The minimum thickness of plywood for a 24" OC setup would be 2 layers of 3/4". Many times the floor trusses carry a label with a tel no. to the tech dept. Get the truss serial numbers and call the number. The rep will know what you have based on the serial numbers and can advise you on what needs to be done to get the floor rated to carry tile.


12:05AM | 05/12/07
Member Since: 03/04/05
33 lifetime posts
I should have started with less details and more besic info. There is bounce in my floor, and I would like to minimize it. No need to state the facts again here, just looking for suggestions on approaches (NOVICE,NEWBIE, etc. are all applicable). Thanks for the patient guiding hand to send this homeowner towards a "fix". Thanks!




12:11AM | 05/12/07
Member Since: 03/04/05
33 lifetime posts
Checked out the website you recommended and my situation is not sutiable for tile. OK. Where do I go from here? What can I do to remove the springiness in the floor? Would bxing the trusses or installing a cement backerboard for my new hardwood be better? Forgive me for the baby steps, but I know absolutely nothing about this. Thanks.




12:17AM | 05/12/07
Member Since: 10/28/05
311 lifetime posts
You need beam and brace support to cut down the unsupported span distance to get the bounce down.

then use schluter ditra instead of a fiber or cement backer board

with 24" joist spacing, it will never be good enough for a backer board. Schluter Ditra is approved from 24" oc joists .. .read their literature and ensure your system falls within the recommendations.

ditra offers load distribution and cleavage/uncoupling properties that allows it to be used over greater unsupported spans and joist spacings.

good luck.


There are two ways to do any job.

The right way and the wrong way.

Do it right everytime.



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