08:14AM | 01/02/05
Member Since: 12/25/04
10 lifetime posts
im in the middle of redoing the interior drain in the basement. It is a ranch house about 20 years old and 3 other basements on this street by the same builder have caved in. i have alot of work to do outside with the gutters and from the sounds of what i read on here im going to dig down to the footer around the whole house and put membrane and pea gravel. but i cant start that till spring.... on the inside presently there was a gap abount an inch around the whole basement that is constantly filled with water and mud. it constantly smelled like mildew. the basement was partially finished and i ripped down all the drywall on the exterior walls and sawcut the floor 16 inch ditch. the block walls were all moldy and water stained and i killed all that with a 1/2 toxic mixture of bleach and water. the sump pit is just a white piece of pipe in the ground with no bottom so my sump is in mud. the black pipes that were running around the basement stopped short of the sump pit by like 6 inches on either side, and like 10 ft of the ditch on either side of the sump pit was really muddy silty stone. the black pipe goes up and down like a rollercoaster and has reverse fall in alot of places. the walls are block and were very wet to the touch and I drilled a few holes in the block over by the sump pit and water drained out of them for about 30 minutes straight. My plans are my pump is only a year old so thats ok. I wanna buy a new pit and repipe the ditch with white pipe and have it run right into the pit. my questions are this.

1) whats an easy way to wash all this stone so i can reuse it?

2) the corners do i use 90's, sweeps, or what? do i put a few cleanouts? how much fall? its 150 ft of ditch so 75 either way.

3) do i drill the block and use mira-drain or something better for ontop the footer before i concrete it, or do i fill in the holes i drilled?

thanks cableman


09:05AM | 01/02/05
Member Since: 11/27/04
174 lifetime posts

for your spring time work outside.

this product should be good on blockwalls. you also bend it 90 degrees on to the footing.

pea gravel on the outside is not right. it can be three quarter crushed rock or drain rock. then a filter fabric on top to stop silts from getting into the perforated drain tile.

you could also use this product on the inside if you were'nt doing the outside too. just tuck it into the trench inside and pour the new concrete against it and run it up to 8 inches short of the top and caulk it, to allow for moisture from inside the new finished walls to escape through the upper block (evaporate).

on the inside white pipe a fall that is enough for the water to flow to the sump. plumbing pipes are about a quarter inch to the foot in fall, but you may end up a bit deep at that pitch. and use either 90's or 45's ,as long as the peices are put in so that the water can flow down them and not get stopped by the fitting being turned uphill.

cleanouts should not be nessessary.


11:40AM | 01/02/05
Member Since: 12/09/03
175 lifetime posts
Take a 5 gallon bucket & drill a bunch of holes in it,place the stone in it & hose off the mud. Also read the "Tomz71ss" threads. Lots of good information there also. Clean the sump pit out & prop the sump pump on some bricks. The plastic ones are very vulnerable to damage to pumping mud. I'll check back later. C. oh P.S. If you want to get a new sump get a big one or put in two in case you want to install a backup pump ther will be room for it C.


01:34PM | 01/03/05
Member Since: 11/13/04
90 lifetime posts
sounds like we had the same plumber pipe in our cellar drainage systems. if it were me, from the sounds of things, you need two sump holes. my basement has two [and now that i have one of them actually getting water to it] they run quite abit during certain conditions. also, i figure if you're digging anyway, might as well go a bit overkill for future prevention of back ups.

the method C mentioned for cleaning the stone will work well for mildly 'contaminated' stone, but i had a bunch that was more mud than stone and figured it might as well be replaced [when i get to that point in my 'project'].

i plan to put in a 'flush T' when i run the new pipe, i mean why not? for the few extra dollars, it'll be cheap piece of mind, 'cause if it plugged once, it'll plug again [granted, it won't be as bad with some decent plumbing, but why chance it?]

read thru my topic too, it mirrors your issue [albeit on a smaller scale], and there are many good ideas posted in it that i'm sure will help you out.

good luck with it, and keep us posted on your progress,



01:53AM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 12/25/04
10 lifetime posts
after today i should have all the concrete broke up and gone , so ill be ready to start buying all the piping and the pit. I want one that the lid closes tight , anyone know a good one? What do most get 24 inch 32 inch ? one place had 2 row of holes in pipe and the other 1 any one better? When installing... what would be best to start at the sump pit and pipe from there out ? do you glue the pipe? does it matter if you start with the bell end of the pipe at the pit or he other side of the pipe at the pit?

On the block walls should i drill holes in them or patch them all with hydroulic cement ... right now i have like 20 - 3/8 inch holes that i drilled when the walls were full of water. they are above finish floor so i know i got to patch those with something before i paint (someday) . should i drill holes lower now that i have the concrete out, or no holes? ill try to do some pictures later ... thanks


06:41AM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 12/09/03
175 lifetime posts
I had to take notes on this one. :). Get the pipe with two rows of holes, the solid white plastic stuff. The black coily pipe is tough to hold a grade with. Get 1 to 1 1/2 inch crushed rock. Call the local sand plant & get it delivered. A 32 inch pit; less cycling for the pump and room for any back-up pump you may want to put in.Install the pipe hub with the flow, so, other end in the pit. drill new holes in the block below the floor. Get a long 10 inch plus concrete drill 3/8" diameter that will releive the water behind the wall. Dig the trench down so that 4-5 inches of rock can be set then the pipe, holes down, then fill with stone to the top. leave 2 inches for cement if you wish to put back the floor. C.


07:42AM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 12/25/04
10 lifetime posts
haha thanks man im in a section now thats muddy as hell.


08:10AM | 01/09/05
Member Since: 12/25/04
10 lifetime posts
do you think its good finding a 12 inch lag bolt laying in the dirt under your concrete? wonder where that was suppose to go !!


01:09PM | 01/10/05
Member Since: 12/09/03
175 lifetime posts
Now if you can find a treasure chest.... Muddy going eh? Use an old sump pump or self priming gas pump to keep you dry. Set the stone & pipe as you go. Watch those lag bolts. :) C.


07:04AM | 01/16/05
Member Since: 12/25/04
10 lifetime posts
the biggest basin i see around here is a 18 x 30 sewage basin by FLOTEC. looks more sturdy than the flimsy ones. is that big enough to fit my pump and a backup sometime? these basement watchdog ones look like they can mount above your pump clamped to the outlet pipe or you can screw them to the side of the basin. are they any good ? thanks
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