First I'd like to "Thank You" Dan for taking the time to walk me through this process.
My stove is working normally and I've saved about $500 by doing the work myself.
I just thought someone on this forum might have had this problem before and could easily explain it but that not being the case Dan, your last posted advice was best.
I pulled the schematic of the stove out and started tracing circuits! Since there were no instructions or schematic with the new controller I had to disassemble the new controller and track the circuit board.
I intend to make one more post here within the next few days directing anyone who has the same problem to an address where I can post pictures and written directions to resolve this problem should they face it.
Dan, should I post the pictures here or is it preferred that I post them elsewhere?
Briefly, these few instructions should resolve the problem for anyone with minimal understanding of basic circuitry even without the pictures:
Take the instructions and the GE 6 pin wiring harness that is provided with the purchase of the Oven/Clock controller and throw them directly into the nearest garbage can!
Unplug the 6 pin plug from the old controller. Move the white pin from it's END position into the OPEN pin position next to it. (Break off the plastic retainer covering the pins, use a very small screwdriver to release the pin. And simply plug it back into the proper hole. It will just snap into place. This is very easy so don't force it).
Reverse the positions of the Blue and Orange pins on this same 6 pin plug. Plug it into the new controller. (This reverses the polarity on the door lock motor. If you don't do this you can't open the door to your oven until it reaches 250 degrees inside. Ha! but true!)
The Purple wire from the old controller connects to the top of the relay nearest the transformer. It had a purple dot on my new unit making it obvious. The lone Yellow wire from the old controller attaches to the top of the only other relay. Mine had a yellow dot. There are 3 connectors on these two relays. These two wires connect to the two connectors that are parallel to each other.
That third male plug on top of the relay closest the transformer and perpendicular to those last two connectors is your main power IN ! Plug the other multi-lead wiring harness that was provided with the controller into it. Doesn't matter which one. Just pick one that fits. This harness has one connector that can ONLY connect to the controller. The other black connectors go onto either of the two remaining connectors on this harness. Remember if it don't fit don't force it!
Your almost finished! Take the only remaining white lead and connect it to the last remaining open contact on the new controller. This is neutral and attaches to the contact next to the 6 pin connector.
Finally you'll be left with two green wires terminating into a female plug. This attaches to NOTHING. It is unnecessary for the controller to work but cannot be removed. You should simply tape the plug over so it can't make contact with anything it shouldn't. Green is ground but should be treated respectfully.
If you cut and or spliced any wire you will be WRONG. Just don't do it even though the only part of the instructions that comes with the controller says to cut and splice the sensor wires. DON'T DO IT!
BINGO...you should be good to go!
I strongly recommend taking the advice provided by Rich in an earlier post. Just buy a new sensor and replace the old one. That would have solved my problem. (Tested my old sensor and it opened completely at 200 degrees) HOWEVER, By replacing the sensor and ECU I now have an essentially new appliance. Total cost was $184.00.(Search the net, Sears charges this for just the Sensor alone?)
Thank You again Dan, for taking your time for free to help us out! It may not seem like it sometimes, I'm sure, but a lot of people have benefited and appreciate your sacrifice to help! Ron Johnson...
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