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12vman

06:40AM | 04/01/04
Member Since: 11/13/02
33 lifetime posts
Bvplumbing
I purchased a whole-house filter for my house that is fed from well water. I already have a water softener but would like to reduce the amount of iron and perhaps improve the taste. Where should I install this whole-house filter at? Between the well and the tank or as the water leaves the tank? Has anyone noticed a significant drop in pressure after they installed a filter?

Thanks,

-12vman

Gary Slusser

06:08AM | 04/02/04
Member Since: 02/17/04
113 lifetime posts
I will assume you mean a disposable cartrdige type filter. The softener obviously isn't working if you have ferrous iron getting through it. Ferrous iron is soluble, like sugar in a glass of iced tea. Normally you won't find a cartridge capable of removing solubles althoug hmany water treatment dealers have them, they are too small to use as POE (point of entry). If the iron is ferric, commom household rust which discolors the water, then your sediment filter will remove that. So if you are going to use the filter, it should go after the softener, unless the water is discolored before the softener. If you put the filter ahed of the sftener, that can cause the softener t oneed more water than the filter will allow through it when the cartridge needs replacemnt. That is bad for the softener resin.

To improve taste, you need carbon filteration. All carbon comes with a warning to not install it on water of unknown microbiological content. Meaning beware, bacteria love to live and breed in carbon where they thrive. That usualy causes odor problems and can make pople sick if the right type of bacteria is present. And all water without a disinfectant in it contains bacteria of some sort. Especially well water.

I believe you need to have your softener checked out for proper operation then have it setup for your present raw water quality and your family size.

Gary Slusser

ACD

02:35PM | 04/09/04
Member Since: 10/15/02
359 lifetime posts
I have the exact problem you have, and how I resolved it is with a combination of 2 filters, an Iron filter and a water softner.

On the pipe leading in from th epump I have a large sediment filter, then into the pressure tank, a branch leading to an outside faucet for watering the lawn and plants, then into the iron filter setup with a bypass system, all my mains are 1", from there I have a branch out to the barn for the horses, the iron was making a mess of the waterers, then into the water softner which also removes 10ppm iron and finally another large filter for taste and odor. Every year I treat the well with chlorine to kill off any bacteria and other contaminants and test the water quality as well.

A note on the chlorine treatment, it will almost immediately turn the water into rust, so make sure when you treat it you have a direct line from the pump and bypass all your filters, one of the reason I put in that outside line before the filters. It takes at least a day of rest before it clears and then several hours of recycling the water through the well, so do it when you plan to be away for a day.

Gary Slusser

07:57AM | 04/10/04
Member Since: 02/17/04
113 lifetime posts
We really should never have anything that restricts flow between a pump and its controlling pressure switch. If we do we run a serious risk of breaking something, like a filter housing or the plumbing the pump is hung on, especially if it's poly tubing. And really, there's no need to keep 'dirt' out of a pressure tank. They all have a drain on them if they are plumbed correctly. And since you should check and adjust the air precharge annually and you do that with no water in the tank which requires draining the tank, that's when the tank should be flushed of any dirt. Flushing is done by turning the pump on for 5 seconds and allowing all the water to drain out. Any dirt will exist with the last water. Repeat as needed until there's no more dirt.

In this case the disposable filter should be on the other side of the pressure tank, and only on the outside water line. The filter would do best there and last longer. The iron fliter mineral will last longer due to no restriction of water flow to it during backwash and/or regeneration.

Gary Slusser

ACD

07:08AM | 04/13/04
Member Since: 10/15/02
359 lifetime posts
The pressure switch on my system happens to be in front of the filter. Past the poly pipe coming from the well, it transistions to copper and the pressure switch is right at the entrance, then into the filter which branches off to the pressure tank. There ia a big ol gauge on the tank that I check everytime I go down to stir the iron filter tank and fill the salt tank. If I see a drop off when I start the flush then I know it is time to replace the filters.
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