06:29PM | 10/11/10
Member Since: 10/10/10
1 lifetime posts
I used radonseals other formula called LatisSeal on the cracks in my basement floor. It worked like a charm and there is no more rain coming in through them. Did not use it for any radon coming in just the water.


02:00PM | 11/01/10
Member Since: 10/31/10
3 lifetime posts
I use only 1 product to seal and patch basement walls and floors, Hydro-Seal 75 manufactured by Northern Industries. This material is a 1 to 1 waterbase epoxy coating that applies like paint with 1/2" or 3/8" nap rollers to both walls and floors in a nice pigmented finish. I use the gray or light gray almost always because I always apply to the walls and floor perimeter. The kicker is that I mix dry cement and sand into the Hydro-Seal 75 to create a patching mortar for cracks, the floor joint and anywhere else I need to patch. I never could find any waterproofing testing data on the Radon Seal, but Hydro-Seal 75 is tested to 40PSI. Plus it is economical, fast drying, odorless, and puts a beautiful finish on ugly stained basement walls covering up and restoring even the worst stone & mortar foundation. Thats something a clear coating cannot do. In my opinion the best radon sealer is the best waterproofer, and crack filling counts.


10:21PM | 11/10/12
Member Since: 11/10/12
1 lifetime posts
The Hydro seal 75 sounded great based on your post about the best water sealer should be the best radon sealer however I noticed that one of the qualities that makes hydro seal a good water sealer is that it "allows vapor transmission."
Would that then mean that it allows transmission of radon vapor/gas??


10:38AM | 12/05/12
Member Since: 12/05/12
4 lifetime posts
I was actually going to go with RadonSeal but ended up going with Foundation Armor. The thing that made me switch was the customer service, Foundation Armor had amazing customer service. Call me an advocate now but I have never worked with a product that works as great as Foundation Armor. I had very bad seepage coming through my basement wall. I applied three coats of their L3000 sealer and not only did it stop the water after about 6 hours but when Hurricane Sandy came through I never had any water issues. I am a true supporter of Foundation Armor and use them now for all of my jobs. I would consider doing your own comparison of the two companies.


12:40PM | 02/14/13
I have a 59 year old house and there was a mold problem.....years ago the interior foundation wall was painted and the insulation and drywall installed over it. The insulation job was very poor and allowed for air spaces directly on the foundation wall. Mold grew. I had to gut everything and remediate mold. I had the foundation wall sandblasted to ground level. I had concerns about mold and moisture through the foundation wall returning if I re-insulate and drywall. I used radonseal. I applied it as per the instructions with 2 coats. After applying it I had a new odor in the vasement. Smelt like a musty, algae, damp cement smell. Rodoseal is supposed to be odorless and the distributor said heès never had anyone call about an ador after applicvation. I waited 3 days and the odor subsided somewhat but was still there. I remained concerned about reviving dormant (dry condition without food or moisture)mold and mildew or it being pushed out from deeper pores as the radonseal cured. I applied microban QGC and mold and mildew killer that is also a deoderizer. QGC is concentrated and is mixed with water. When I sprayed the mixed QGC on the wall with the pump sprayer It absorbed into the cement. I was surprised because I thought the radonseal would act as a sealer and most of the QGC would run off but it didn't. I call Rodonseal about it and they said the radon seal works deep into the cement poors so may be still somewhat porous on the surface. I dunno....I'm sceptacle now whether radon seal works. I'll see if the smell goes away now after using the microban QGC. I do know that mineral silicate sealers which I think what radonseal is....cannot freeze or it will ruin the product. So if transporting this to the distributors in freezing conditions.....who knows what faulty product you might get.


01:08AM | 03/06/13
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09:24AM | 06/25/14
Our house is 100 years old, the basement walls were constructed of both concrete block and poured concrete. We were having flooding in the basement when we would have large amounts of rain. After installing a interior perimeter drain system and sump pump, I started prepping the walls to be painted. In the course of the preparation I discovered that the moisture in the concrete block had caused the paint to separate from the wall. While the paint looked fine if you tried scraping it several layers of paint would come off. After discussing the problem with Radonseal customer service, I stripped the walls down to bare concrete used RadonSeal Plus and Ion Bond Armour to seal the walls. The Ion Bond was used to go through the fibercrete used to repair areas of the wall that had deteriorated. In the areas that were treated both products have worked very well. The concrete block has remained completely dry through the spring rains this year, now I can paint the walls. While not cheap, both products work very well which in the end is worth the cost.


03:40PM | 07/29/14
I noticed that RadonSeal dilutes their silicates and sells low solids products. RadonSeal also appears to have poor customer service and ignores phone calls. I went with Foundation Armor because they sell commercial grade products and were willing to run me through the application process as many times as I needed.


05:09PM | 10/21/14
So what are we concluding? I see a lot of indication that customer service is poor. That problems are called the result of bad application. Apparently Radon Seal dilutes their scilicates - the blocking agents. There is a question as to whether a good water sealant, which is vapor permeable can also serve well as a radon block, since radon is a vapor.
...HELP! Should we use Radon Seal or not?
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