02:59AM | 04/16/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
Who are you going to believe and rely on? Somebody like G Haege who is NOT licensed to do waterproofing and prolly never has done 1 job in his life let alone have to guarantee it or someone who has 26 years of "hands on" every single job experience? Give me a,too funny! But people are gonna believe what they want so in the end its their own fault,bank account and foundation that will pay! I just wish people would start using their own minds,think things through a bit and QUIT believing alot of these MYTHS that keep getting repeated like 1)an outside method is twice as costly versus an inside method..just NOT true 2) an inside drain tile method takes hydrostatic pressure off a wall or actually waterproofs walls..impossible! An inside method ONLY diverts water that has already entered a wall under the floor-it cannot stop water/moisture from entering through cracks and other direct outside openings! Ya have to go OUTSIDE to accomplish that..and if you don`t stop water from entering then you will not stop mold,efflorescence from growing on your walls or inside a block wall--and you will not take any hydrostatic pressure off the outside of a wall w/an inside method,pressure from dirt-roots that causes cracks in walls and bowing/movement of walls. What don`t some people understand about this I`ll never know.3) All the different means of trying to divert SURFACE water will not keep all water/moisture away from your entire wall...can`t happen! But go ahead and try, many want to spend $5,000 to redo their basement and make it liveable but want to spend as little as possible on some diversion technique to keep water out...why? First you Define why you are getting water in,then you fix it properly,and you are not going to fix/seal a crack in your wall that is outside by painting the inside of wall w/Dry by adding top soil or all the other surface diverting means,I wish things were that easy but that just isnt the true and honest story-ya have to seal the entire crack! Outside..Period! And let me repeat this as well...if your problem is water that comes up through cracks in the Bsmt FLOOR and Not from the wall then will need a sump(s) installed and the LAST resort will be an inside water-diverting method to control the water level under the floor...because the problem is under the floor and not the outside of the walls. When you try these surface diverting techniques like extending your downspouts 5 miles away from the house or raising the grade 3 feet or all the BEST you will divert the "Surface Water"..say maybe 1-3'...but there is still water deeper in the ground around your house that you CANNOT control...understand? Diverting surface water is fine but you will never divert all the water away from a 6-10' deep wall and vertical,step and horizontal cracks that are in walls run that deep! If you only leak in 1 corner of your basement then that is all you need to fix! That is where your problem exists on the outside-that is where water is entering! You do not need the entire wall done..unless you have some movement/bowing of the wall,then you may want to do the entire wall to take pressure off of it..its your foundation!


03:18AM | 04/16/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
if your buying a house...don`t be so quick to entirely trust a home inspector! Most of these people come from the G Haege school of diverting and have ZERO hands on experience on foundations and basement waterproofing...and in most states there is NO Licensing for Hm Insp`s...none! So how will they thoroughly understand what they should about foundations? By reading a book or reading a bunch of myths online? You are actually going to trust them on your new homes foundation? Thats pretty darn important...and another thing--these inspectors do not guarantee a thing! If they miss that one of your bsmt walls is bowing and needs to be straightened or replaced...are they gonna pay for it? LOL! Why not call someone who KNOWS foundations? I do this for FREE...long as they give me advance notice,im not gonna drop everything im doing in a moments notice cuz someone didnt think ahead and didnt have curtesy to give me a week or 2 notice. If your walls begin to move your in a bit of trouble really should take the time and have them inspected by someone who knows about them and who is honest...just my 2 cents.


04:29PM | 04/16/04
Member Since: 12/09/03
175 lifetime posts
First and foremost the definition "waterproofing" has to go! A drain around the foundation and a sump pump is not a waterproof basement! It is water control.Waterproof means seal the basement against any leakage,throw away the pump and hose! (that is of course impossible,the hydrostatic pressure would split the floor and walls)Amazing how many people fall for such a misleading term.A better term is "water control system" Also any body can look around a cellar for water marks or lines,rotting wood at bases of walls or stairs,furnaces or water heaters or other appliances propped up on bricks or blocks or (and I've seen it!) a big hole covered with a sheet of plywood with a pile of paint cans a lawnmower or other gifts the previous owner will leave to hide the dreaded sump hole.also maybe the best time to buy would be March or April...... My experience is that home buyers need to pay more attention. Also explain the cost difference between digging up the exterior of a foundation agianst the interior.That is all C.


11:20PM | 04/16/04
There are more materials involved w/outside method and it is more labor intensive. First,we lay 4x8 sheets of plywood down over grass to protect grass and it makes pushing the wheelbarrows back N forth from street to wall a bit easier.If there is a bush or 2 in our way(against the wall) we`ll pop `en out and put them back later that day.If there is concrete along wall then I`ll use a 14" cut off saw and take out 18" wide by whatever long is necessary,that conc. apron can also be replaced.The 18" is what we need hand dig to footing/tiles,we do not and have never used a backhoe or trencher for digging,all done by hand.If there is a central a/c unit too close to wall then that too will need to be disconnected and replaced. If the homeowner needs 1 wall waterproofed with nothing in the way on the outside and the wall is approx 30' long and 6' deep to footing, my charge would be $2,100 ish and would take 1 day to complete.In some cities we have to pull permit so thats another small cost.To waterproof around average size home usually costs 7,000-8,000.Most inside companies(Everdry,B-Dry,Insta Dry..NEVERDRY!!) will charge 6,500-13,000 on average size home..I`ve seen MANY of their estimates for Years. If we are doing 1 wall,it is normally dug out by 10-11 am and ALL the dirt is picked up and hauled away at that point,MUCH more dirt to be hauled than doing an inside system! We wire brush and scrape any excess dirt off the walls and prepare any cracks in wall or where gas line etc may enter through the wall and use hydraulic cement in & over all direct openings,that will set/harden very soon and we then apply the thickest Tar over the entire wall(MUCH thicker than what a builder uses to"damp-proof" a new house)and place a thick visqueen over the to bottom,end to end.We check all existing tiles along the outside of the footing/replace if necessary then backfill with 100% peastone all the way up(Much more P stone than inside system) with maybe 6-8 inches of top soil at grade.The inside system only requires a jack hammer to break up usually a 10-18" along the wall,they carry out in buckets the concrete and lil bit of dirt(thats all they have to haul,nothing compared to outside)- they will lay drain tile along wall(extremely cheap..100' of that is about $15) and they`ll put a bed of peastone in as well..we`re talking less than 2 yards.When doing the outside method for 1 wall we`ll need about 8 yards..see the diff in money needed to do the work--plus the amount of dirt to be hauled away vs the lil the inside has to haul,we`re talking hundreds diff there as well.An inside system uses no hydraulic cement,no tar there is more $$ they do not have to spend and the biggest expense is the labor! To have good/smart/strong laborers for outside method costs much more than say what Everdry pays their guys--Everdry pays MOST of their people $77 a day for 10 hours! Unreal....I pay my guys 200-300 a day(believe me,they earn it)..think about the difference in digging 30' x 6' deep in 2-3 hours(the physical exertion) compared to inside,and lets not forget the backfilling,after you`ve dug...pushing 300 lb W`Barrows back N forth,that`ll get yer butt in shape.Yet..after all is said and done,the inside companies charge as much if not MORE! WHY? They use much less in materials and its less labor intensive...its a scam! Always has been! And hey,I have the same payments on my trucks and insurance costs then the inside guys do..if fact my insurance costs more because of the risks involved(cave ins etc)..and I`ll say it again,to the day I die..the inside method ONLY diverts water that has already come into & through a wall...under the floor! The outside method stops water/moisture from entering and takes pressure off the walls.The inside method cannot and will not stop mold/efflorescence from growing inside the cells/cavities of a block wall...and yet G Haege and many others keep repeating to the public that the inside method will give your basement "Clean quality breathable air"...what a joke! Hows that gonna happen with mold growing behind your paneling/drywall? He will not debate me about any of what I state in any kind of public forum...what does that tell ya? LOL!
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