Latest Discussions : Electrical & Lighting


07:28AM | 12/28/98
Last spring I had two 8 foot flourescent double tube fixtures added to an existing circuit with two 100 watt regular light bulbs and 1 four foot flourescent double tube fixture. They are connected as follows 100 watt, 8 foot (A) , 8 foot (B), 4 foot then 100 watt. Both of the fixtures worked fine for about two months. Fixture A went dark first, replacing the bulbs had no effect. It looks like it is trying to ignite, but never does. Last week fixture B started doing the same thing. The 4 foot fixture and 100 watt fixtures are working fine. Is this a "starter" problem on the eight foot fixtures or a wiring problem?
Then last weel fixture B died, and


12:33PM | 12/28/98
Wiring lights is basic. Black to black, white to white. Given that the lights are wired correctly, you have purchased some bad lights. Many of the fixtures today have their starters incorporated into the ballast and are not repairable. If the starters are replaceable then do so. If not, at the high cost of the ballast, I would return the light fixtures and opt for a different brand.

Brian Wood

12:36PM | 12/29/98
Dear Mss: As usual,Dr Home is right. It does sound like your wiring has gotten mixed up and two or more of your ballasts may be connected in series instead of parallel, which means each light is trying to work on 60 volts instead of 120. Go to the fixture that you connected the new lights to and make sure you have a full 120volts at the black & white, then do what the Doc says; black to black, white to white etc'. Bear in mind, ballasts cost between $17 & $35,get a refund, replacement or a different brand. My company sells a foolproof electrical tester called a Hot or Not AC sensor which makes electrical troubleshooting a breeze. It tests for AC voltage without actually touching the conductor, and will tell you which is the hot wire regardless of its' colour. Only $22.50. We are at 800 851 9891
& e-mail= Happy Wiring & Happy New Year. The Waterguysers.

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