A ramp may be used to move heavy sanders from your vehicle to the ground, or from your porch through your threshold as shown here.

Sand as though you are mowing the lawn. Proceed row by row, overlapping runs by half the sander’s width. Unlike with mowing, however, you will have to make numerous passes with each grit.

Sharpen your scraper with a mill bastard file. Follow the manufacturer’s original bevel using a diagonal, slicing stroke.

Industrial vacs will do a better job, but save the rental fee and use your shop vac instead. Install a new filter and invest in a good brush attachment, if you don’t already have one.

A single wipe with a tack cloth removed a significant amount of dust, even after vacuuming.

Use a lamb’s wool applicator (not foam) for applying shellac-based sealers.

Use a brush to cut in around the room perimeter.

Applying stain (as well as sealer and polyurethane) is done using many of the same techniques you’d use when painting. Always begin your stroke a foot or two away from the area you’ve just coated. Then brush (or push applicator) to meet the previously stained area. This will help ensure even coverage.

Follow up application by rubbing off excess stain with a rag. The goal is an even tone across the entire floor surface, although slight variations are perfectly acceptable.

Apply polyurethane in two- or three-foot-wide parallel rows, each row overlapping the previous one. Make smoothing strokes (uninterrupted, continuous runs with the roller using light, even pressure) after completing each row. Avoid thick coats.

Lightly sand between coats of polyurethane with very fine, 320-grit paper. A sanding pole makes it easier on your knees, but hand-sanding allows you to spot embedded debris. Wipe surface clean with a tack cloth or a rag dampened with mineral spirits before proceeding with the next coat.