Guide to Hardwood Floor Finishes

We may earn revenue from the products available on this page and participate in affiliate programs. Learn More ›

You have finally decided on the perfect hardwood for your floors—whether that’s a deep, rich walnut, a warm cherry, or a rustic oak. While there are many species of hardwood fit for flooring, each with its own unique characteristics, they all share one thing: They all benefit from a protective finish to keep them looking their best.

Choosing the right top coat for newly installed wood floors or boards that are a little worse for wear, however, can be a little intimidating. Hardwood floor finishes have varying levels of ease of application, durability, and even glossiness—an important aesthetic consideration after choosing your preferred finish. Make your decision about finishing wood floors a little easier by brushing up on the basics of the eight most popular types of hardwood floor finishes.

1. Water-Based Polyurethane

Pros: Easy application and cleanup, low odor and low VOC, clear finish, fast drying, durable protection, very smooth and shiny finish, no yellowing
Cons: Not recommended for large surfaces, requires multiple coats, more prone to scratches than oil-based finishes
Best for: Light-colored wood flooring, low-ventilation areas, allergy-sensitive households, floors in need of a clear finish that dries quickly
Our recommendation:  Minwax Polycrylic Protective Clear Finish Topcoat is our Best Bang for the Buck pick in our tested Buyer’s Guide to the best water-based polyurethane for floors. It’s also easy to apply for tough touch-ups. 

Made with synthetic resins and plasticizers, water-based polyurethane produces a very durable finish that resists moisture fairly well (although you’ll still want to mop up any spills or leaks ASAP). Otherwise, it’s any easy-care finish for hardwood floors—a broom and a damp mop is generally all you’ll need.

“This has become the industry standard for professional floor finishers,” says Lou Manfredini, Ace Hardware’s home expert. Although water-based polyurethane sometimes looks a little milky in the can, it dries clear and resists yellowing over time. While most homeowners prefer to apply water-based polyurethane sealer with a high gloss, you’ll also find satin and semi-gloss options. 

“Not only does it enhance the look and color of your wood, but it’s perfect for use in any room on bare or stained interior wood surfaces,” says Rick Bautista, director of product marketing at Behr. Water-based polyurethane is also a fairly eco-friendly option among hardwood floor finishes, releasing far fewer volatile organic compounds (VOCs) than many other products. 

Water-based poly is “ideal for light-colored hardwoods like maple, birch, ash, hickory, and poplar, where preserving natural color is important,” says Andrew Marsden, senior product manager at Minwax. “It combines the quick-drying, low-odor advantages of water-based technology with a tough protective layer suitable for everyday use.”

You typically need to wait only 2 to 4 hours between coats (three to four coats total is the usual recommendation). After that, you’ll be able to walk on your floors within a few hours, although you should wait at least 48 hours before moving furniture back into place. And never wax polyurethaned floors, as that can dull the finish.

2. Oil-Based Polyurethane

Pros: Enhances the grain, needs only one or two coats, excellent scratch resistance
Cons: Application takes more time than water-based finishes, fumes require ventilation, color can yellow over time, requires solvents for cleanup 
Best for: Busy households with traditional wood flooring like cherry, walnut, and mahogany
Our recommendation: Minwax Super Fast Drying Polyurethane for Floors is fast-drying and easy to apply. It dries clear and can be recoated in 4 hours.

Oil-based polyurethane consists of linseed oil, synthetic resins, and plasticizers. Its strength and durability make it a popular hardwood floor finish, especially in high-traffic areas. It has a slight amber or yellowish tint and can yellow even more over time, which adds a bit of rich, warm amber color to the floors. 

Oil-based poly is “tried and true, with a more warm-looking finish, especially on raw wood with no stain,” says Manfredini, and it’s “durable but not as hard as the waterborne finish.” It releases a high level of VOCs, so wear a respirator if you’re finishing the floors yourself. Application also requires more time than water-based polyurethane. Generally, it takes 8 to 10 hours for each coat to dry. 

“Because of higher solids, you often need only one to two coats to get good build and protection,” says Marsden. “It builds a tougher protective shell with fewer coats, though at the cost of longer drying times and stronger odor—it’s a trade-off.” After the last coat, wait at least 48 hours before walking on the floors in shoes and 4 days before moving in furniture. Cleanup is easy with mineral spirits. 

Because oil-based polyurethane is hard-wearing, you won’t have to refinish the floors as often as with some of the other options. And it’s easy to maintain—just sweep or vacuum regularly, and clean away dirt with a damp sponge.

3. Moisture-Cure Urethane

Pros: Extremely durable, available in any sheen, dries fast in humid conditions, brings out the natural colors of wood
Cons: Very high VOCs, requires PPE and turning off all pilot lights, difficult to apply, won’t dry in dry climates
Best for: Situations requiring the toughest floor finish, such as homes with active dogs
Our recommendation: Dunham’s Moisture Cure Urethane provides a tough finish for concrete and wood surfaces, is abrasion-resistant, and offers some stain resistance.

Created for use in bowling alleys, moisture-cure urethane is extremely tough and durable after it dries to a very high shine. It resists moisture, scratches, stains, and general wear. Its difficult application, however, makes it less of an option for a do-it-yourselfer. Plus, the very high level of VOCs it releases can linger in the air for weeks, so household members will need to relocate for as long as 2 weeks after application.

“Moisture-cure urethane finishes are common in some parts of the country, but not as commonly used today. These finishes are some of the hardest finishes used in our industry. These finishes require adequate ventilation, gloves, eye protection, and respiratory protection during application,” says Brett Miller, vice president of technical standards, education, and membership at National Wood Flooring Association. “These finishes dry and cure with exposure to moisture. In dry climates, they simply don’t dry.”

If the air is very dry, the finish won’t cure or dry evenly. Too humid, and it can start to dry before it’s spread evenly across the floor. An even application of this fickle finish requires a quick hand and an experienced touch.

And more than just PPE, these combustible finishes require extra safety prep. “The vapors of these finishes are heavier than air and may travel considerable distances to ignition sources. All pilot lights in the building must be shut down for this finish to be applied safely,” says Miller. 

Because of its many drawbacks, moisture-cure urethane is used primarily in commercial settings where its resistance to wear and moisture, high-gloss appearance, and strength outweigh its downsides.

4. Wax

Pros: Hides small scratches, protects bare wood or finished flooring, easy to apply 
Cons: Less durable than poly, requires more maintenance, does not protect against long water exposure, can be tough to remove old wax layers, combustible
Best for: In dry climates, to create a hand-finished vibe on flooring that’s in good condition in lower-traffic areas
Our recommendation: Minwax Paste Finishing Wax offers a hand-rubbed finish that dries in 15 minutes and can be recoated in 15 minutes, too.

“Wax floor finishes are not too common on newer floors today, but are commonly found on many restoration projects. These finishes are normally made of a carnauba wax blend. A waxed floor may last hundreds of years through simple maintenance practices such as rewaxing and burnishing,” says Miller.

Before the development of polyurethane floorboard finishes in the 1960s, wax was the hardwood floor finish of choice, and had been so for hundreds of years. Among wood floor finish options today, it’s frequently chosen by do-it-yourselfers who like its historic appeal and its low-sheen, natural appearance. You’ll find liquid and paste wax; both require several coats that are buffed in by hand, but liquid wax is usually applied with a wool applicator, while paste wax is applied with a rag. You can even mix wood stain with the wax to color your floors while you finish them.

“Wax [finishes] can help hide light scratches, scuffs, and small imperfections by filling and blending them in. They’re ideal as a finishing touch or for maintenance, though they demand more hands-on care and aren’t as resilient under harsh wear as polyurethanes,” says Marsden. “Rather than stripping and refinishing every few years, waxed floors can often be refreshed with buffing or additional coats.” 

On the flip side, waxing hardwood floors doesn’t create a very durable finish. Exposure to water can create white marks, so avoid wax finishes in bathrooms or kitchens. The finish will scuff and scratch, too, though these marks are fairly easy to buff away and hide under another coat of wax.

Be aware that wax sometimes yellows or darkens over time, so it’s best used over wood that already has a warm cast. And if you decide you want to replace your wax finish with polyurethane, you’ll need to completely strip the wax from the floor.

5. Shellac

Pros: Natural, sustainable product, easy to repair or touch up, adheres well to oily tropical woods
Cons: Must turn off pilot lights due to flammability, requires PPE, not easy to apply evenly, far less durable than many other options, can chip off, needs to be freshly mixed before application
Best for: Well-ventilated areas where you want a natural product that doesn’t emit a lot of VOCs and dries quickly
Our recommendation: Zinsser’s Bulls Eye Clear Shellac is nontoxic and does not yellow with age. Cleanup requires just rubbing alcohol and water.

“Shellac is not a common finish used on wood floors, although it can be used as a sealer,” says Miller. “The wood floor industry uses the dewaxed shellac as a universal seal coat over wood species that commonly have natural oils, saps, or some other natural components that can interfere with traditional finish drying. These sealers are alcohol-based, which is combustible to flammable.”

Made from denatured alcohol mixed with secretions of the lac bug, an insect found in Asia, shellac has been used to seal and finish wood for hundreds of years. Made from natural resins, this finish is “safe for homes, even around children and pets,” says Darian Leyva, an American Home Shield virtual handyperson expert. “It is very easy to repair scratches or worn spots by simply adding more shellac to the damaged areas.”

Most shellac products naturally dry with an orange tint and high-gloss finish, although they can be bleached or tinted as well as mixed with extra denatured alcohol to create a more matte surface. Because shellac dries quickly, it can be difficult to apply without leaving visible lap lines.

Shellac also tends to stain and water spot, and it’s vulnerable to damage from alcohol and ammonia. It doesn’t hold up to foot traffic nearly as well as polyurethane, but touch-ups are fairly easy.

While you can buff wax over shellac, you cannot apply one of the polyurethane finishes over it, so if you decide to change your floor’s finish, you’ll need to completely strip away the shellac first.

How to Choose the Right Hardwood Floor Finish

6. Penetrating Oil Sealer

Pros: Available in a variety of color options, can refresh scratches and worn areas, penetrates the wood, brings out the grain
Cons: Requires more time to absorb than other options, requires more frequent reapplication, may darken wood color, ranges from noncombustible to combustible
Best for: Bare, sanded flooring in low-moisture, lightly trafficked environments
Our recommendation: Ready Seal Goof Proof Penetrating Wood Stain/Sealer, a stain and sealer in one, can be applied in any temperature, hold up to rain within minutes of application, and does not require sanding before you apply another coat. 

Very popular before the introduction of polyurethane floor sealers in the 1960s, penetrating oil sealers aren’t used much today but are still favored by some homeowners who love the way that oil brings out wood’s grain, beauty, and depth without adding high shine or gloss. It’s also a great choice if you are restoring a historic home.

“Also known as natural oils, these are an old finish concept, which has been revitalized over the past several years in the wood flooring industry,” says Miller. “Natural oils are normally classified in two categories: natural penetrating oils and hardwax oils. These finishes require a higher level of sanding to ensure the oils penetrate into the wood properly while enhancing the natural beauty of the wood grain itself.” Penetrating oils generally dry very slowly—often requiring an entire day between coats—so this isn’t a quick do-it-yourself project.

While penetrating oil sealers give wood a naturally lovely appearance, they don’t hold up well to foot traffic, so be prepared to re-oil your floors every 3 to 5 years if you choose this option. Also, chemicals can spot or damage oil-sealed floors, so you’ll need to use wood floor cleaners specifically formulated for this type of finish. Scratches are easy to touch up, though; just buff more oil into the damaged spot.

Unlike most other hardwood floor finishes, penetrating oils like tung oil and teak oil don’t leave a hard “shell” on top of the wood; for this reason, a final coat of wax often tops the oil for extra protection. ”It’s beautiful,” says Manfredini, “but you do not get a shiny finish. More of a honed look [that] would need reapplication and would not really protect the wood from scratches.”

7. Acid-Cured Finish

Pros: Extremely durable, dries quickly, leaves a clear to amber tone on wood
Cons: Very high VOCs, highly flammable, PPE required, expensive, incompatible with some wood types (teak, rosewood, Brazilian walnut, and cedar), pro-only application
Best for:  Exotic wood floors or those with elaborate patterns like red oak, white oak, hickory, or parquet flooring
Our recommendation: The Glitsa Lite Scent acid-cured finish offers less odor and can be recoated quickly after drying overnight. 

The crème de la crème of hardwood floor finishes, acid-cured finishes (also called Swedish finishes, conversion varnishes, or conversion finishes) are even more durable than polyurethane. “This was a big trend 30 years ago, but applicator safety has lessened its use,” says Manfredini. The finish is “very hard, very flammable, and needs special equipment to apply.”

These finishes are flammable due to their alcohol base, and they use acid for the curing process, creating a shiny finish that is extremely durable and resistant to chemical damage, scratches, and scuffs. They don’t, however, work with some wood types, such as teak, Brazilian walnut, cedar, and rosewood. Still, these finishes highlight the wood’s grain, color, and natural beauty.

These alcohol-based, usually two-part finishes “are some of the hardest finishes used in the wood flooring industry,” says Miller. “Conversion varnishes leave a clear to slight amber color, bringing out the natural color tones of many species. They are normally available in matte to gloss sheen levels.”

If you’re tempted by their resilience, know that acid-cured finishes release very high levels of VOCs and have a very strong odor. “The home is not habitable while curing, therefore this is best recommended for brand-new buildings that already have a waiting period,” says Leyva. You, your family, and your pets will need to move out for several days while the floors cure.

They also require excellent ventilation during application, along with a full-face respirator. Once the finish is applied, it’s not easy to touch up or refinish an acid-cured floor, but you shouldn’t be troubled with damage or wear under most normal circumstances thanks to its durability.

8. Aluminum Oxide

Pros: Durable, easy to maintain, available in several levels of glossiness
Cons: Requires UV light to dry, needs up to eight coats, difficult to touch up or refinish, available only on prefinished wood planks
Best for: High-traffic areas or anywhere you want supreme protection from wear and tear
Our recommendation: This finish is available only on new flooring, so consider the prefinished wide-plank rustic white oak flooring from Sustainable Lumber Company that comes with an aluminum oxide finish. It’s kiln-dried, has a micro-bevel edge, and is tongue and groove on all four sides.

Aluminum oxide is a naturally occurring mineral that provides an extremely long-lasting protective coating, and it’s probably the best finish for hardwood floors. It protects the floor from scratches, fading, water damage, scuffs, and general wear and tear without changing the color of the wood or hiding its grain. Available in several levels of shine, it can go on as matte or as shiny as you’d like. You won’t apply this yourself, though; aluminum oxide is available only as an option on prefinished flooring planks.

“Aluminum oxide finishes are used exclusively on factory-finished flooring,” says Miller. “These finishes normally dry by UV light, allowing multiple coats to be applied back-to-back during the manufacturing process.”

On the downside, it’s not easy to remove or restore the aluminum oxide finish if you eventually want to touch up damage or switch to a different finish. You’ll need to call in pros to tackle the job, and possibly even replace the floorboards. Still, if you want the most durable hardwood floor finish—it can last up to 25 years—that’s also low maintenance, and you like the idea of installing wood flooring that’s already finished and ready to go, aluminum oxide is a good choice.

FAQ

Q. Should I finish my hardwood floors with a gloss or satin sheen?

Deciding on sheen involves more than just aesthetics; there are practical considerations as well. In high-traffic areas, a gloss sheen can help protect the wood floor a bit more and hide imperfections. Scratches are easier to see with a satin finish.

Q. What classic flooring never goes out of style?

Wood flooring has never gone out of style.

Q. What is the most scratch-resistant wood finish?

Aluminum oxide, a factory-applied finish, is probably the most scratch-resistant. For a wood finish that’s both scratch-resistant and DIY-friendly, oil-based polyurethane may be the best option. Check out the chart above to compare and contrast key features of eight different finishes. 

 

7 Telltale Signs It’s Finally Time to Replace Your Flooring

Old, shabby flooring can make a home feel dated—but when is it finally time to replace flooring? Don’t miss these red flags.

Learn More