12:07AM | 04/18/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
This is what I`m talking about....articles like this Minn states that the first thing you should do is extend downspouts or raise/slope grade and on & doesnt simply state that if the homeowner has a crack in the wall..that the crack is why water is entering and is what should be fixed,period.Raising the grade of putting longer extensions on downspouts is not going to stop water from entering through the crack,it doesnt seal/waterproof the crack.And why dont these architects simply say if the homeowner has water coming up through cracks in bsmt floor and NOT from walls then they will need a sump and/or inside diverting method installed to Control the water level under the floor,the downspout extensions or grade is not the problem! That is not going to keep water that is already deep in the soil from being forced up through floor cracks or through a vertical/horizontal crack that is 5-8' deep in the wall,below ground.These kinds of articles never seem to address Hyd pressure on the outside of our wall in detail and dont speak to the deterioration of block walls when water is continually allowed to enter the blocks through cracks.Mostly they talk about diverting water..not fixing the actual problem.Some of these articles even tell ya to try and use a paint,like Drylock,on the inside of a wall...why? C`mon folks,you dont really believe that a paint is going to stop water from entering a wall through a crack that exists outside,do ya? Just because Drylock "claims" that its paint "penetrates into the pores of walls"...thats too funny! The Minn article even states that it is appealing to solve moisture problems w/a coating on the inside,imagine architect actually thinks and says it "might work for a time in some cases"....sure,ok! I dont want to disagrre with the Minn article and those people...but I most certainly do!


01:35AM | 04/18/04
I disagree with alot of the article`s "thought process"! For instance I do agree when they state that" Finishing a basement without first dealing with the moisture problems can result in making health conditions worse and lead to significant damage as well"....ok....No doubt about that! I also agree with when they state"Moisture problems in basements are very common but often "NOT Understood" or properly treated"....but many of this and other articles wording and thought process I do not agree with.Even when I say I agree this Minn article when it says"Many problems are not understood"...I also know even these people do not get the entire picture,they do not have the full understanding on THIS subject either! LOL! I`m not saying I have their knowledge and educational background,im sure most if not all architect`s have a higher IQ than I do...but they do not have the experience,the hands on knowledge in this trade than I,how could they? Like Devildog states"So your saying if someone posts on here that they have ground sloping towards their house,your first response would be to excavate & waterproof?"...NO!!! Im saying if you have a crack in yer wall that you should excavate * seal it & backfill it correctly,thats what Im saying.If yer grade is sloped towards the house...sure you all should slope it away. I completely understand that many of us do not have the cash to toss around.And CELLAR..your"assuming" that there IS broken tile and-or the tile is full of soil & roots...hey,sure I replace any tile that is broken or messed up,rarely is but yes we do..its code,on city inspections...but what Im saying is that is NOT why the wall leaks! Just because it is perceived to be part or all of the problem does not mean it actually is.Now..think about this ok..a basement wall is built vertically-a basement floor is horizontal...if there weren`t cracks in the floor or openings at inside isolation joints on the inside of the basement and if they weren`t cracks in the outside of bsmt walls and openings above ground(bricks,windows etc) then almost all of us wouldnt ever get water into the basement. Yes its about"water"...and where and how it wicks through ground and trying to divert it,but it still takes"OPENINGS" either inside or outside to allow water to actually enter.Its darn near impossible to fix/seal/waterproof cracks in a horizontal bsmt ya have to try and control the water level by means of a sump or inside system.You can fix/seal/waterproof cracks that are in a vertical bsmt wall with an outside method AND take alot of the Hyd pressure off the wall and stop mold/mildew/efflorescence from existing in-on a bsmt wall. There is more pressure exerted against the outside vertically built wall than under a basement floor. Thats why many more walls crack,buckle,bow,collapse than bsmt floors.And personally I partly blame the states for their building codes & inspections for backfilling,they don`t get it either/or don`t care.If they made it absolute that a builder must backfill with all peastone/gravel there would be alot less cracking/buckling of walls.But I also partly blame some of the builders who should know better about taking short cuts on depths-widths of footings needed in certain soils,who are too quick to begin building rather than putting more emphasis on compacting the soil on which they will build on,and who are much too quick to backfill against newly built walls and who backfill with alot of garbage they`d rather not haul($) away..and backfill with heavy operated machines which push heavy soil,roots,bricks,blocks,cans and all kinds of other crap against these new walls...which many times crack wall from the git-go.Why isnt there more care and thought from the states,cities and builders,inspectors etc put into these structures when people are paying so much hard earned cash for them?


02:43AM | 04/18/04
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
I`ll simply say to clarify that I disagree with the Minn article and many others on their "thought process"..not every I do agree with "Finishing a basement without first dealing with the moisture problems can result in making health conditions worse and lead to significant damage as well"...without a doubt! When the article states"Moisture problems in existing basements are very common but often are not understood and properly treated"...I agree with the statement but because they say it doesnt mean they understand it fully either.


07:53PM | 04/19/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
694 lifetime posts
By arguing with what has been established by the 'professionals' in waterprooofing research, LicensedWaterproofer, you are only showing yourself to be amateurish and having no clue what the actual professionals SAY about basement waterproofing.

I almost wholly disagree with you 'advice' and I have been trained by soils and structural engineers, architects, and my State Code authority on how to deal with water and moisture in basements.

In fact, I am considered 'expert' on most levels of basement water and vapor treatment and can say in all hinesy that you have quite a lot to learn.

So disagree if you will.

You disagree with the bona fide experts and only show syourself to be a continuing 'amateur' in your 'field'.

plumber Tom

08:42PM | 04/19/04
Member Since: 05/10/03
810 lifetime posts
You spend entirely too much time talking to yourself, rather then answering homeowners questions regarding the subject matter. I have waterproofed enough basements via french drain method. So please if you do not get asked a question do not post general comments on this board. Thanks for your your understading and cooperation. Your input is valuable and we do appreciate your experience, HOWEVER, do not just ramble on.


11:12AM | 04/20/04
Member Since: 04/19/04
2 lifetime posts
...but to concentrate on only one method seems very close-minded. Suppose we agree that the best way to keep a basement dry is to keep the water on the outside of the basement walls to begin with -- OK, fine. But when the ground is saturated, unless you also channel the water away from the foundation, wouldn't you still get a buildup of hydrostatic pressure that can lead to buckling, or the aggravation of existing cracks, or formation of new ones? The water has to go somewhere, no?


Post a reply as Anonymous

Photo must be in JPG, GIF or PNG format and less than 5MB.


type the code from the image


Post_new_button or Login_button

A simple banquette piled with pillows and lit from above with a wall sconce is a tempting spot to curl up with a favorite ... Built on a rocky island in the Drina River, near the town of Bajina Basta, Serbia, this wooden house was cobbled together ... Large steel-framed windows flood the interior of this remodeled Michigan barn with daylight. The owners hired Northworks A... Edging formed with upside-down wine bottles is a refreshing change. Cleverly and artistically involving recycled materials... A Washington State couple called on BC&J Architects to transform their 400-square-foot boathouse into a hub for family bea... Similar to the elevated utensil concept, hanging your pots and pans from a ceiling-mounted rack keeps them nearby and easy... For windows, doors, and mirrors that could use a little definition, the Naples Etched Glass Border adds a decorative flora... The thyme growing between these stepping stones adds a heady fragrance to strolls along this lush, low-maintenance garden ... Decoupage is an easy way to add any paper design to your switch plate, whether it is wallpaper, scrapbook paper, book page... Twine lanterns add pops of crafty—but sophisticated—flair to any outdoor setting. Wrap glue-soaked twine around a balloon ... When securely fastened to a tree or the ceiling of a porch, a pallet and some cushioning make the ideal place to lounge. V... Reluctant to throw away any of those unidentified keys in your junk drawer? Hang them from a few chains attached to a simp... A stripped-down model, sans screened porch, starts out at $79,000. Add the porch, a heated floor for the bath, and all the... Salvaged boards in varying widths and colors make up the dramatic accent wall in this attic space. The high-gloss white of... This garden shed has been decked out to the nines. Designer Orla Kiely created the intimate home for a flower trade show, ...
Newsletter_icon Google_plus Facebook Twitter Pinterest Youtube Rss_icon