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drumzit2

01:16PM | 04/10/05
Member Since: 04/09/05
2 lifetime posts
Bvwindows
I created cabinetry around a Murphy Bed against a wall in our bonus room. I used bifold doors for the front to conceal the bed and to allow easier entry into side cabinets. When the bed is down and the doors are open, I would like the bifolds to stay closed but they want to open... I used 3 little brass hinges to hold the doors together. Should I do something to the hinges to make them stiffer? Adding magnets to keep them closed would be one option but I was hoping to solve it another way.

Thanks in advance for your time!

bravey

07:08AM | 04/14/05
Member Since: 06/23/04
164 lifetime posts
One solution is to use "ball catches" at the top of the doors.

To coordinate terminology, bifold doors are made up of pairs of doors consisting of a hinge leaf (hinged at the wall) and a strike leaf (hinged to the hinge leaf).

If you haven't already done so, install a wood stop along the top of the opening to prevent the doors from swinging too far into the opening. For each bifold pair, install one ball catch in the top of the hinge leaf and near the joint with the strike leaf. The ball catch consists of two pieces. The first piece is set into a drilled hole in the top edge of the door and the mating piece is set in the head of the frame. I personally like these catches better than magnetics. See www.rockl*r.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=10576&filter=ball%20latch for an example (this website strips out the names of the competion so you must replace the asterisk in the web address with the letter "e").

Your pull handle should also be mounted on the hinge leaf.

Regards

drumzit2

04:14PM | 04/14/05
Member Since: 04/09/05
2 lifetime posts
Thanks for you time and I am sorry for not being clearer but they are free standing doors and the terminology "Bi-fold" is applicable only to the type of doors I created. They are not the spring/track riding type you find with closets. The ones I created are hinged to a box (cabinet) if you will, and because of having only 25+ inches on each side of this center (bed) cabinet, the doors had to fold in the middle. Therefore, bi-fold doors were what was applicable in this configuration. The side hinges are 125+ degree opening and the center (hinge leaf) are simple brass 1.5"

I have since gone the magnet route but if anyone has the trick for adjusting hinges so that doors will either remain open or close would be appreciated.

Thanks!

bravey

06:07AM | 04/15/05
Member Since: 06/23/04
164 lifetime posts
I'm probably not making myself all that clear either. I think I understand your configuration. The doors are "similar" to closet bifold doors but without the spring/track at the head and thus the doors will swing away into the room or fold against each other leaving the opening completely clear while taking up less wall space to the side. The ball catch that I attempted to explain is for that very configuration. If you need a drawing, I can fax it to you (I have no scanner). Send a fax number to my email brravey@juno.com.

Hinges installed out of alignment cause doors to open or close on their own but this is usually a problem that builders try to repair rather than create on purpose. I think this would be difficult to do with the intent of having the doors move to a prescibed position.

Regards

MistressEll

08:38AM | 04/17/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
since you "created" these, and used three hinges, it could be that one or more aren't quite aligned, or that one hinge has bent and is putting "bowing" pressure on the door panels so they won't stay "flat" and "closed". Also could be that you are aligned perfectly, and your hinges are perfectly straight but your "doors" are NOT and their own natural "bow" is causing the problem.

Another thought is that perhaps the hinges just aren't strong enough for the weight of the door panels (or their width) and that they are shifting/stressing the hinges.

Some thoughts to ponder.

I'm still kind of unclear if the hinges in question are those connecting two panels or those that attach the 'door system' to the framing for the 'murphy closet'. If the later, perhaps some shimming of the hinge locations or setting flush (gouging out some material in the framing so as to sort of 'counter sink' the hinge base in the framing and its attachment to the door panels may be needed).

I personally STINK at adjusting doors/setting hinges, and when I created a folding door set for a corner cabinet situation I stuck with "piano" style hinges so I wouldn't have to deal with the situation of aligning the hassles of minute differences in the individual construction of EACH hinge.

Good luck with your project.

P.S. If looking for some "beefier" hardware ideas regards to your hinges, you might take a peek at www.wwhardware.com for some ideas.


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