Wet Basements,Trees and Your Foundation
Q)Are sump pump systems allowed in Shaker Heights?
A)Yes,but it`s not the approach we recommed.It`s not water-proofing, it`s water management.The way it works is,the contractor drill holes in your foundation to allow water in through the wall,where it is directed into a pipe(inside your basement)that leads to a pump that pumps the water back to the storm sewer system.....this approach does not eliminate mold,mildew or fungus, which can be associated with health problems....
Q)What if the problem is not related to surface grading and water is leaking through the foundation?
A)the preferred method for dealing with damp and leaky basements is to dig around the perimeter of foundation(only where needed!)...all the way down to the footing;apply waterproofing materials...to the outside of the foundation walls;fill any cracks in the foundation...fill in with at least 2 feet of washed gravel...that`s, Waterproofing done right.
scroll down a bit
--Trees and Your Foundation--
strong foundations are sometimes damaged by small roots that entered tiny cracks,then grew and expanded the crack.Large roots can push bulges into the basement wall...
....pipe that joins the storm sewer,if these pipes are clogged with roots (other debris) or collapsed,the water will Back Up, possibly into your basement.Your plumber(an experienced & honest one)can clean these lines or tell you if they must be replaced. In plumber lingo, this is known as "snaking the lines".
....also, be wary of Waterproofing companies that recommend Interior basement perimeter drains and a sump system,you`ll still have open water in your basement thus the possibilty of a musty odor and excessive humidity.
yeah, and mold,radon,insects and lateral& hydrostatic pressure possibly cracking,bowing basements walls behind drywall etc.
rot does not occur without,first, the presence of excessive moisture and second,the presence of fungus spores...many people are confused by the term "dry rot" after all, how can something rot if it`s dry? The reason is that the rotten area was once wet or suffered from seasonal wet & dry periods.
The Inside Co`s tell a good bllcrap story and state in yellow pgs,newspapers,interent etc that an Outside method is 'Very Expensive'...say Who? Them? Some will also bs homewoners stating an 'Outside/Exterior Method costs $200-$300 per ft.'...this is bs, its total Nonsense! It is a Lie.
I will glady give anyone ph numbers to Outside contractors who laugh as i do and will Explain to YOU just how much 1 wall, part of 1 wall, a corner or sure, how much for 3 or 4 walls.Ask they what THEY think of an Inside system.
Now, let`s get into what EXACTLY many if not all, of these Inside Co`s 'claim' they charge for their Inside method.
Many, Not all, Claim and state they charge $30-$40 per ft for their Inside perimeter `n sump system. If this is TRUE, then why in 20+ years have myself and Other contractors who`ve been shown estimates they received from Inside Co`s....why do they indeed charge minimum of $6,000 to $20,000++ ?
Lets take a bungalow, they will be between 100' to 135' or so. Well, to make it easy for all, lets use the 100' and, if what they claim and say is True, 100' x $30 per ft and $40 per ft is, $3,000-$4,000!
Yeah, $3,000-4,000 hmmmmm,lol,thats ALL the way around the Inside perimeter w/Sump! well myself and Other honest contractors have NEVER seen 1 single estimate in all these Years so whats that tell ya? exactly!
Not talking about ANY home that needed any beams etc, just straight waterproofing, well....water-Diverting is what an Inside systme does, ya know that.
Break it down a lil more, their claims on what THEY charge should then, for 2 walls and sump be about, $1,500 - 2,000!!! one 30' wall and sump should be about $900-$1,200!!! But they never seem to be anywhere NEAR what they claim.
They misrepresent and deceive what Honest Outside Waterproofers charge, but Never REALLY wanna talk about what they charge.Supposedly, the BBB says any misrepresentaion or misleading advertising claims shall, NOT be used by their members! Well, what the heck does it continue year after year? Yeah, some of us know why.
'we have Never seen 1 single estimate at $3,000-4,000' we have been shown MANY estimates from MANY Inside Co`s, just wanna clear this point.
find 'Keeping Foundations walls dry'
and 'Backfilling Foundations'...these 2 are in videos 13-17, 2nd page
spraying a thin asphalt coating imo `n others is not quite enough,need Thicker application....don`t be so cheap. This application `n backfilling are Most important.
they make the statement about hydrostatic pressure 'standing fluid' against wall. This is ONE definition, the other is when the 'Soil' becomes saturated, it is also hydrostatic pressure.
Lateral `n hydrostatic Soil pressure cause basement walls to crack, leak, bow `n possibly buckle/collapse. Silty soils & clay soils that are often used to backfill against/along many basement walls retain water/moisture & will expand & contract against walls. Roots from trees can also damage walls.
So...the Best prevention for expanding/contracting soils Against Outside of wall is to backfill w/most-ALL gravel/peastone. It applies the LEAST Lateral load/pressure against walls.Raising the grade/extending downspout extensions etc does Not relieve/stop/eliminate the fact that leaving expanding soil/roots against wall can still damage/crack etc the wall. See/read bob vila `n other links
6th paragraph http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp
Now, how is doing ANY Inside system going to relieve/stop/prevent Outside lateral `n hydrostatic pressure or roots? How is doing ANY Inside drain tile or baseboard method going to Stop/prevent water entry through cracks & other Outside openings? You have to go Outside to accomplish this.
Some folks have a wall that is bowing in a bit caused from Outside pressure! Sure, sometimes beams/braces can help a wall resist SOME further soil pressure but, one needs to get rid of that expanding soil against the wall `n waterproof the cracks `n backfill with gravel which applies the LEAST lateral load.
When a wall is bowing in, its also going to have some step,vertical,horizontal cracks. Placing beams etc on the Inside does Not seal/waterproof the cracks on the Outside. Some will talk homeowners into bracing etc from inside, but one needs to understand the the expanding soil/roots are still against the Outside of wall and most certainly can cause...further damage! And what about the cracks? Leave them open for water/moisture to enter,mold,termites/radon to enter?
The Best prevention for the Wall, the Cracks, the homeowner and Future homeowner is sometimes beams/braces but 'Always' relieve as much Outside pressure as possible(gravel backfill) and waterproof the darn wall.