On most of them you can adjust both the bottom and the top in and out (towards the jamb or toward the other door).

For the top there is usually a setscrew in the socket for the pivot. Losen it and then move it.

I forgot how the bottom adjust. Some of them aren't adjustable. But look at it and see.

Yes, these have adjustments on both the top and bottom to move the door location closer or farther away from the door jam. The bottom also has a "bolt" that it pivots on which can be adjusted up and down for height. The problem I am having is that one door slops down and the other door slopes up, so when the doors are closed they do not match up. I have tried various adjustments, farther or closer to the door jam and up and down, but nothing seems to straighten the doors out. Thanks for the reply.

sounds like we might havethe same problem? Are you talking about the door sloping back....and the doors are flush at one end and not at the other? If you solved the problem i would really like to know! Iam going crazy here! thanks

Yes, the problem sounds similiar to the one we are having, however, we have yet to fix it. Unfortunately, I have just given up and try not to look at the sloping difference between the two doors.

If the fixed brackets that receive the posts (top and bottom) aren't plumb to each other this will happen and frankly drive you crazy trying to adjust them.

Remove the first door completely.

Get a plumb bob, and hang it from the top bracket - if the lower bracket (which receives the lower pin/post from the fixed side of the bi-fold door) isn't exactly straight and plumb beneath it - then you'll need to relocate either the upper track (if present) location of the upper bracket, or re-locate the position of the lower bracket.

Don't rely on the side wall finish being either straight, level or plumb - or your floor for that matter.

If these bifolds do not have a top rail/track that the upper brackets are set into, please advise. If you do have a floor bracket/track also advise (assuming top track, and no bottom track here).

Next you'll have to determine if both lower brackets are set LEVEL and straight to each other, and shim one or the other as necessary to the floor side - relying on spring tension of the adjustment post to level will just lead to frustration.

Expect that your closet opening is not straight, plumb or true - and neither outside wall, either to itself, nor to each other.

If your top track not installed perfectly straight, level, true, and twisted, warped, etc. in any way - you will also have difficulty in aligning meeting bi-fold doors.

your gap to the walls on either side of the doors may well need to be NOT uniform - to get the doors themselves to hang straight, level and plumb - and in alignment to each other. Creative trimming and moulding can be used to "case out" this "zone" sometimes first installing some door stop trim then casing overtop on the pin/fixed sides of the closet opening)or some wall finishing work can be done to square off and true-out the closet opening.

Bottom line: you need a plumb bob, string, measuring tape, and a short and long true level to investigate your closet opening sans (without) the doors in place to begin with.

You also need to investigate the support/mounting pins on both the top and bottom of the fixed side of each door, as well as the top adjustable or spring pin on the top moving side of each door (and the bottom if a dual track).

Some of these pins are screw in/out adjustment to the door (for length) and some are spring supported. Even if your brackets have a spring or have a threaded hole to receive threaded pin from the door - they might still have both interacting.

A bad spring/ bent spring, missing spring, or missing metal or plastic containment cap (or a cracked cap) in one or both areas can also cause a mis-alignment and frustration nightmare.

You'll need to investigate this as well.

Bottom line - first remove both doors and investigate the hardware on the doors themselves - as well as the alignment of the top and bottom "retaining" brackets, and their relationship to each other comparing left and right doors - next the level/non-twist of the top rail - then the overall trueness of the entire opening (including the possiblity of a "hump" or crown in the floor/closet opening or overall unlevel floor).