Latest Discussions : Electrical & Lighting

mrussell

05:52AM | 08/06/04
Member Since: 08/05/04
1 lifetime posts
The oven will not ignite and I've looked at the gas flow witch to make sure it is in the proper position as the trouble shooting section of the owner manual suggest. What else can it be?

The burners and the broiler ignite fine, just not the oven.

DanO

09:58AM | 08/06/04
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** GE XL44 **

I'm afraid that is just a marketing name. What is needed to identify the product you have is its full model as printed on its model and serial number tag. You can find tips for locating that tag on your appliances in the 'Repair Parts' section of my site linked at the bottom of the page.

** The oven will not ignite and I've looked at the gas flow... What else can it be? **

More detailed observations will be needed before a diagnosis can be made. You can read about how the various oven gas ignition systems work plus possible causes for problems at the following link:

Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=823

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=+GE+stove

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~


streamview14

10:50AM | 06/17/05
Member Since: 06/16/05
1 lifetime posts
I too have the same GE XL44 Oven with the exact same problem.

The model number is JGBP28BEA3AD

Broiler lights, as well as stove-top burners.....But the oven will not light.

appliguy

02:40PM | 06/17/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi,

**Broiler lights, as well as stove-top burners.....But the oven will not light.**

Bake ignitor glowing red?

If no, possible

- bad ignitor

- bad wire

- no power from the control

- bad gas valve

These are likely most to least common.

If yes, possible

- bad ignitor

- bad gas valve

These are likely most to least common.

Some info/tests that may help...

http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#gas-help

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1990

Igniter for oven JGBP28BEA3AD

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

JRAppliance

http://www.jrappliance.ca

thomasyaruk

06:52AM | 09/20/05
Member Since: 09/19/05
1 lifetime posts
Hi,

I have the same range and the exact some problem you had. What was the problem? How did you fix it? Thanks for the help.

Thomas

DanO

09:20AM | 09/20/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** I have the same range and the exact some problem you had. What was the problem? **

Just because someone else's appliance has the same symptoms as yours doesn't necessarily mean that the cause in their case will be the same as the cause in your case. I would suggest you concentrate on diagnosing your own appliance's problems. JMO

** How did you fix it? **

A start would be getting the exact observations of what *your* range's ignition system is doing. If the ignitor IS glowing when the oven is turned on but the oven is just not lighting, chances are ~75-85% that the oven ignitor itself is just defective. And yes, an ignitor can glow and still be defective.

If the ignitor is NOT glowing, someone would need to trace the electrical system to it to see where the power stops. An open ignitor or oven valve could be the problem or a defective oven control or electronic control.

We would need the exact model number off your range ("XL44" isn't it) to determine what components it uses. You can find tips for locating that identification tag on your appliances at the following link:

- Model Number Tag Search

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/parts/tagsearch.cgi

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

damian

08:23AM | 10/25/05
Member Since: 10/24/05
2 lifetime posts
Hi, thanks for the informative posts on this subject. I have two specific questions about replacing the ignitor. I have removed the old ignitor for the oven - it is visibly cracked and have ordered a replacement part; however, the OEM parts come with unterminated leads and ceramic twists:

1. Am I okay to splice the leads with the ceramic twists, ala household electrical wiring (which I am familiar with/know how to do). Is there any danger in that?

2. Does the ignitor care which lead goes to which? It doesn't appear to be the case but I wanted to make sure.

Thanks in advance - Damian

appliguy

09:31AM | 10/25/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
G'day,

**Am I okay to splice the leads with the ceramic twists**

Yes.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&N=1021674

Porcelain wire nuts.

**Does the ignitor care which lead goes to which?**

It is not polarity sensitive.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

JRAppliance

http://www.jrappliance.ca

damian

11:22AM | 10/25/05
Member Since: 10/24/05
2 lifetime posts
appliguy rules! thanks for your help - I'll let you know how it goes! thx again - D

tgmtgm1

06:27PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 11/26/05
1 lifetime posts
can you let me know how you went about replacing the igniter on the ge xl44?

thanks

tony

DanO

08:46PM | 11/27/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** how you went about replacing the igniter on the ge xl44? **

Depending on exactly which GE XL44 range model you have, it looks like the oven bottom panel is removable to access the oven burner and ignitor.

You can see an exploded part view of the range model that was posted above at the following link:

- G.E. JGBP28BEA3AD Exploded Parts View

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?psm=JGBP28BEA3AD

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

NotMechanicallyInclined

05:23PM | 04/06/06
Member Since: 04/05/06
1 lifetime posts
Hullo, I am having much the same problem as others here.

My symptoms include:

- Top burners work with no visible problems

- Oven was not heating 24 hours ago, but was turning on

- Oven is currently not lighting, and I don't smell any gas as I normally do on startup.

I checked the gas shut off valve as per the owners manual and found nothing wrong with it.

This is a GE XL44 Self-Cleaning Gas Range, model # as follows:

JGBP26WEA5WW

Any help on this would be very much appreciated.

Thanks,

NotMech

DanO

08:33PM | 04/06/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** I checked the gas shut off valve and found nothing wrong with it.**

If it was turned off, no gas burners on the appliance would work *at all*. If any are working, that is not the problem.

** My symptoms... **

We need actual observations *of the ignition system's operation* in order to suggest possible causes. The system used on your range is a 'hot surface' ignition system whose operation is described at the following link:

Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=823

If the ignitor IS glowing when the oven is turned on but the oven is just not lighting, chances are ~75-85% that the oven ignitor itself is just defective. And yes, an ignitor can glow and still be defective.

- GE JGBP26WEA5WW Bake & Broil Ignitor

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=1990

If the ignitor is NOT glowing, someone would need to trace the electrical system to it to see where the power stops. An electrically open ignitor or oven valve could be the problem or a defective oven control.

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

celerystalk12

09:43AM | 12/16/06
Member Since: 12/15/06
1 lifetime posts
relacement igniter has no terminal ends.which wire goes where? Does it matter?

DanO

10:17AM | 12/16/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** which wire goes where? Does it matter? **

No, there is no polarity on the ignitor circuit.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

jake12

03:41PM | 12/21/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
I have a GE XL44 Self-Cleaning Oven (Model JGBP30BEW1WH ) and its oven stopped working, the oven igniter does NOT glow at all, however the burners and the broiler are just fine but only the oven stopped working.

I checked the voltage of the wires connected to the igniter and it's about 115V which seems to be correct.

I opened the Igniter and connected it directly to 120V power and it did NOT glow.

I hope it wasn't a bad idea :)

Do you think if the Igniter is bad

or some thing else I should check?

Thanks

Jake

DanO

10:06PM | 12/21/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** the oven igniter does NOT glow at all, however the burners and the broiler are just fine **

Since the only thing in common with all those systems is the gas flow and not the ignition system, one operating and the other(s) not should have no bearing on each other.

** I opened the Igniter **

You "opened" the ignitor???

** connected it directly to 120V power and it did NOT glow. I hope it wasn't a bad idea **

It is not designed to be connected to power like that. It is designed to be connected in series with the oven valve.

** I checked the voltage of the wires connected to the igniter... Do you think the Igniter is bad or some thing else I should check? **

I would think that should mean the control system is functioning. Only continuity tests (see the following link) of the individual components and an amperage test of the circuit while in use will help to narrow the problem further.

- How do I test for continuity?
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=817

You can read how the most common gas oven ignition systems are suppose to operate at the link I previously supplied titled "Understanding Gas Oven Ignition Systems". The system used on your model (and the other range models listed in this message thread) is the 'Hot Surface (glow ignitor) Ignition System'.

You can see the replacement ignitor for both the bake and broil burner for your model at this link:

- GE JGBP30BEW1WH Bake & Broil Ignitor
LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/data.php?rc=1990

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

jake12

09:16AM | 12/22/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
*** You "opened" the ignitor???

No, I meant I disconnected it from the oven.

Testing the continuity of the Igniter:

- the continuity test (diod test) shows no continuity (no beep from multimeter and it shows 1)

- the resistance test shows about 9.5 MegOhm

do you think the Igniter is bad?

*** It is not designed to be connected to power like that. It is designed to be connected in series with the oven valve.

since it has an impedance and it works with 120V AC, I thought if I connect it directly to the same voltage (120V AC) it should glow, but as you are saying it may not be true.

Thanks for your help

jake12

09:22AM | 12/22/06
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
just to add to the previous post:

I did also check the amperage as well and it reads 0 amp (no current flows)

thanks again

DanO

06:02PM | 12/22/06
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** the continuity test (diode test) shows no continuity (no beep from multimeter and it shows 1)... the resistance test shows about 9.5 MegOhm **

Those seem to be to contradictory statements. NO continuity would be infinite resistance. ANY resistance would mean continuity.

If the ignitor has infinite resistance (aka no continuity), it is defective and needs to be replaced.

** I did also check the amperage as well and it reads 0 amp **

No current can flow through an open circuit. Someone just needs to isolate where that opening in the circuit is.

JFYI

Dan O.
www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range
The Appliance Information Site
=D~~~~~~

jake12

01:59PM | 01/02/07
Member Since: 12/20/06
4 lifetime posts
Thank you very much for your help.

I replaced the igniter and it works properly now.

as mentioned in my previous post the electrical resistance of the bad igniter was about 9.5 MegOhm which seems really high

and for the new igniter it's about 450 Ohm.

Cheers,

Jake

DanO

05:21PM | 01/02/07
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** I replaced the igniter and it works properly now. **

Glad to hear it, thanks for the follow up.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

jmccurdy

07:12AM | 06/18/07
Member Since: 06/17/07
1 lifetime posts
I have a JGBP35WEV2WW GE oven and the oven ignitor is bad and I'm trying to replace it. The problem is the 2 screws that attach the igniter to the burner are on the under side of the burner. The angle and space are not enough for a wrench or socket.

It appears I need to remove the burner itself. Is this what I need to do? I can't access underneath from the broiler area because there are several panels that would have to come out and it looks like that would require remove of the burner as well.

There appears to be a large lock not holding the burner plate on.

Jeff M

DanO

07:00PM | 06/18/07
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** It appears I need to remove the burner itself. Is this what I need to do? **

That may be a possibility. I have no personal knowledge of your exact model to know how it was assembled. Sorry.

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

davidb6

05:57AM | 12/15/08
Member Since: 12/13/08
1 lifetime posts
I just pulled the oven igniter on my XL44 gas range. Here's how I did it:

1. Take off the oven door by just pulling up - this makes the project much easier.

2. Remove the oven floor - unscrew the two screws in the back and pull up at the back.

3. Remove the flame spreader over the burner - I believe it's just one screw in the front.

4. Loosen the burner bar by taking out one screw in the front. You can't remove it because of the bracket over it. I tried to remove the bracket by undoing the nut in the back of the bottom drawer, but it was too tight.

5. Here's the hard part: take off the igniter by unscrewing the two mounting screws. These are on the bottom, and it's not real easy. To do so, use a small 1/4 inch box/open-end wrench. Mine came from Sears. Start with the screw closest to you. use your fingers to hold the box part on the screw. You can only turn a few degrees at a time, but it will come. Now do the back screw. As soon as you get it a bit loose, you can rotate the igniter to improve access to the screw.

6. The connections are in the back of the bottom drawer, not hard to get to. My igniter was attached by two ceramic wire nuts - perhaps it had already been replaced.

7. When replacing the igniter(WB2X9154)

polarity is not important - it's just like a switch.

nejpski

09:30AM | 10/21/09
Member Since: 10/20/09
1 lifetime posts
I too have the same problem and the same observations. [And the same model numbers etc]

IF a person didnt use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor, couldnt one remove the ignitor from the broiler and put it in the oven position instead. [seems like it is reasonable, if for no other reason than troubleshooting.]

Thanks to ALL. First time here, and it appears this is EXACTLY my problem.

LarryG

10:52AM | 10/21/09
Member Since: 07/22/04
649 lifetime posts
"IF a person didnt use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor, couldnt one remove the ignitor from the broiler and put it in the oven position instead. [seems like it is reasonable, if for no other reason than troubleshooting.]"

yes they do it all the time.

DanO

10:00AM | 10/22/09
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** IF a person didn't use the broiler, since it uses the same ignitor **

Many models do not have separate bake and broil ignitors and on the oven models that do, those ignitors are not always the same.

Even their wiring plugs can be different requiring cutting and splicing of wires (NO *plastic* marettes to melt please).

They should be compared before attempting to swap them.

* The filaments of an ignitor are VERY brittle and could easily be damaged by rough handling. Be very careful handling them. *

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/parts/?ref411=GE+Range

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~


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