09:46AM | 08/17/04
Member Since: 08/12/04
3 lifetime posts
I recently tried to repair the dimmer switch of a floor lamp but when I opened the lamp I found out there is no room for your traditional floor lamp dimmer switch. The actual broken switch part number reads ZING EAR ZE 256.(It is a small,flat,enlosed,narrow, black box maybe 1 1/4'x 3/4'x 1/2'in size) I looked on the internet but have not been able to find it available. The ZING EAR company's web site was confusing and dificult to browse through to find the part. Does anyone have a suggestion on where I could find the part or an equivalent one?



11:09AM | 07/12/08
Member Since: 07/11/08
1 lifetime posts
I too have a pole lamp with a broken Zing Ear ZE-256 switch. I'm considering using one of the following options (instead of replacing the switch itself):

First, I would replace the switch with length of wire so that the plug becomes the switch. This, however, is incovenient so next I would either (1) plug the lamp into a remote controlled switch (such as the Rayson Technology RCS-100) which is available at Menards for about $10 and can be used with any lamp/small appliance (or multiple). There may also be model available with a dimmer function - not sure about this. Or (2), another possibility is to add a floor foot switch (on/off) like the ones used for Chrismas Trees (some floor lamps I've seen even have these built-in to their cords as standard switches. These are low cost alternatives to replacing the actual switch. Another alternative would be to purchase a larger on/off/dimmer control and mount it into a small project box and add a standard wall outlet (or two) on the rear of the box into which the lamp would be plugged. This outboard control would then become the on/off/dimmer for the lamp and could be placed on an adjacent end table - slightly less estheticlly pleasing, but effective.


09:43AM | 11/03/15
The zing ear switch is a simple TRIAC lamp dimmer. One potentiometer, one capacitor, one scr and one triac. The potentiometer in my case I think was the problem. It is a special potentiometer as it does not go to zero ohms. This is to make sure the lamp does not go overcurrent and overheat. In my case the wires were pretty close to being burnt because the pot shorted out at some point in the turning. Really lucky this didn't start a fire. No protection circuitry, gotta love these Chinese parts. Guessing the TRIAC is burn and SCR. My decision is to replace the scr with an optocoupler and potentiometer and replace the TRIAC with one rated for the same specs.
Q2016L5 is a good triac replacement, the cap is an 82nf mylar cap and the pot is a 282k ohm pot with resistance of about 2.3k on the low side. For the scr trigger using an optocoupler with a 1.5 or 1.6v turn on should work fine. Gonna just desolder the old components replace with new ones, and test with 12V AC as the datasheets use 12V for testing. Replacing the components should be much cheaper, @ $2 for the TRIAC, @2 for a potentiometer and @2 for an optocoupler.
Good luck everyone!
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