As long as the area is not on soil, is properly compacted, has the proper depth compacted proper stone layer, has the appropriate steel reinforements, has expansion joints as required, has stress scores at least 1/4 deep where required, is at least a six bag mix (stronger is better)and is mixed before it arrives at a cement plant, and is at least 4" thick, AND the finishers don't ADD any water, and aren't allowed to moisten it while troweling (cause of de-lamination is often when they have added more water to the furface when they are 'floating" it), AND the cement isn't poured during the hot dry sunny months, AND it is properly CURED (plastic sheeting down for at least 3-7 days) and no heavy traffic for first 30, AND the temperature will remain above 50 degrees during that first month, and not exceed 80 you shouldn't have a problem. The most often cause of delamination is when they water mist the forms for stamping and the surface, AND/or have added moisture to the surface when floating and skimming. Additional water weakens the concrete bond, AND too fast drying also. The concrete needs to retain its moisture for about 30 days to properly form the crystaline structure that gives it strength. Excessive water added on-site in the mix in general or surface will weaken that delicate hydronic chemical reaction and cause that delamination/flaking. Over fast drying (not proper curing) will cause the mixture to dry before that hydronic chemical reaction completes forming CRYSTILINE structures and will crumble. There are tables by region/temperate zones, but without knowing where in the country you are, cannot cite the specifics you need. But in general if the rules for installing a plain jane cement patio or drive way or whatever for your area are followed, the stamping process won't hurt it, its generally poured thicker though as the depressions of the mold have to result in the minimum thickness required for your surface, the "high points" are extra. For example, if your patio has to be 4" thick regular concrete, and the "mould" stamp provides for a 1/2 grove, then it has to be poured 4-1/2" thick, so the "grooves" area are 4" thick. I hope that made sense.