04:02PM | 12/27/03
Member Since: 04/10/03
116 lifetime posts
I need to install oak stairs in a new construction home. 2X12's are on there now. Let's start with the skirt boards. (1)Do I need to lay out on the wall where they are going to go while the old treads are on, so that when I pull the treads off, I can install the skirt boards before I install new treads and risers? The stairs have a landing half way up then turns 180 degrees and goes up to the second floor. When you get to the top there will be a straight rail on the right. The board that the spindles go into, (sometimes just a 1X6, but in this case it's like a nosing 1X6.It has a bullnose which is probably 1.062" thick, but the rest of the board is .75" so the nosing part of the board will overhang the floor. (2)So I guess when I install the skirt board that ends up directly underneath the nosing board, I must leave it 5/16s beneath floor level, so when I set the nosing board, it falls on top of the skirtboard? (3) When I have done straight rails at the top of the stairs before, I extended 1X6 past the top riser so that the newel post extends past the top riser. Is that correct or should the newel post stop relatively even with the top riser. If it extends past the top riser then I must cut the 1.062" lip down to .75" so it sits flat on the floor?
When I get skirtboards on, then we move on to the risers. What is the proper way of installing risers. Certainly I don't shoot them on with finish nailer. Do I need to screw them on from the back with pocket jig or what? How do I install the treads? Do I liquid nail them down and shoot them on? Do I screw them from underneath? Do I install all the risers first? Do I install 1 riser, 1 tread, 1 riser, 1 tread?
Then comes a spindle question on the slanted rails. Spindles are round on top and get drilled into top rail. I watched a guy once flip the top rail over and lay it on the stairs so that when he drilled straight down and then flipped it back over the holes were right for the spindles. If you wanted spindles on 4" centers, is there an easy way to figure out the distance apart on the slanted rail. Am I going in the right order with what I am doing? HELP!!!

[This message has been edited by whit.millwork (edited December 28, 2003).]

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