Latest Discussions : Electrical & Lighting

p0ps

05:26PM | 06/02/02
Member Since: 06/01/02
9 lifetime posts
My question is this.

An existing outlet has a 10 gauge wire and 30 amp breaker on it already. I would like to put a stove in this spot now but the documentation for the stove says I should have it on a 40 amp circuit even though one of the plugs I can buy for it has 10 gauge wires in it. So, my question is do I have to re-wire the whole run for this (this will involve ripping out cabinets and drywall). Or can I get away with a 30amp breaker and 10 gauge wire for the stove?

Will the stove really need to draw over 3600watts provided by the 30 amp circuit? I can't just use the 10 gauge wire and a 40 amp breaker can I?

I've done a considerable amount of wiring before including 220v outlets. I just have never run into the situation where ripping out the 10 gauge is a nearly impossible task.

rpxlpx

06:06AM | 06/03/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1674 lifetime posts
If your stove uses no more than 3600 watts (as you mentioned) and that's at 220/240 volts AND there's nothing else on the circuit then the 10 guage wire ought to be safe. The reason I say this is that most electric water heaters use 4500-watt/220v elements and run them on 12 guage wire (which is a size smaller).
As to the breaker size - do the math. 3600 watts divided by 220 is a little over 16 amps; divided by 240 is 15 amps.
Question: if all surface burners AND the oven were on at once, would that go over 3600 watts?

p0ps

10:45AM | 06/03/02
Member Since: 06/01/02
9 lifetime posts
Thanks for the quick response.....more clarification:

Well just to be clear. The documentation for the stove didn't say exactly how many watts it would be using. The documentation just said that you should have it on a 40 Amp circuit. And, since there is already 10 gauge wire there which is obviously capable of supporting 30amps I want to reuse what's there. I don't believe it would be safe to use a 40amp breaker with the existing wire.

I guess I'm wondering about whether or not the stove could ever consume 3600 watts. I mean is that even realistic.

What's the worst that could happen if the stove maxes out what the breaker will provide? The wiring should be rated to handle more than 30amps. The breaker should limit consumption to 30amps. Will parts of the stove just not work???

rpxlpx

05:21AM | 06/04/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1674 lifetime posts
All parts of the stove will work properly until/unless the breaker trips.

If nobody else responds with precise numbers as to what current 10-guage wire can handle, you could stop into your local store that sells electrical wire and read the label on the 10-guage wire.
I think it'll handle a 40-amp circuit OK, but don't have the for-sure info. Assuming the 10-guage wire will safely handle the power requirement, you should be OK replacing the 30-amp breaker with a 40.

Remember, I'm assuming there's nothing else on that circuit.

[This message has been edited by rpxlpx (edited June 04, 2002).]

p0ps

06:16AM | 06/04/02
Member Since: 06/01/02
9 lifetime posts
No need to assume. There is nothing else on that circuit. It is currently a dedicated circuit with 10-3 and a 30amp breaker.


rpxlpx

08:17AM | 06/04/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1674 lifetime posts
I just found this table on the Web.
Wire Gauge Amps
14 15
12 20
10 30
8 40
6 65
With that in mind, your stove could use up to 7200 watts without max-ing out the 10-guage wire. (30 amps X 240 volts = 7200 watts) As to why they want a 40-amp breaker, probably just for a little extra margin.

p0ps

11:07AM | 06/04/02
Member Since: 06/01/02
9 lifetime posts
I thought it worked slightly different from that.

Each hot line is still essentially only 120V. Thus when you multiply you would multiply 30 Amps X 120 volts = 3600W per line. I always thought that the applicances themselves kept the lines separate to power separate devices internally. For instance, an electric dryer would have one 120v line powering the heating element while the 2nd line would be powering the motor and the various other electronics inside.

My worry is still that the stove will use 1 120v 30Amp line to power the heating elements (which if they are all on might not be enough considering the instructions call for a 40Amp) and the other line to power the clock and other added functions the stove provides.

rpxlpx

05:43AM | 06/05/02
Member Since: 03/13/00
1674 lifetime posts
Most dryers use 120v for the motor and 240 for the heating element. Most electric stoves use 120 for the light bulb and timer and 240 for the heating elements, which are the main power users. Don't worry about the 120 in the stove. It's the 240 you should be concerned with. The 240 is obtained by using BOTH 120 lines combined.

[This message has been edited by rpxlpx (edited June 05, 2002).]

HBB

07:18AM | 08/20/02
Member Since: 08/19/02
29 lifetime posts
There's a mishmash of highly dangerous misunderstanding going on here.

NO electric range, apartment (20") or full (30") size notwithstanding, should be connected to anything less than a #8 wire. No. 10 wire is simply not heavy enough to carry the potential amperage an electric range can draw.

And a certain size breaker is not specified because it will make the range operate better; it has nothing to do with that.

Electrical conductors (wires) OPERATE a range and the breaker to which the wires are connected PROTECT the wires.

You can play with all the math you want to, but you can't escape the fact that a #10 wire is rated to carry a maximum of 30 amps and will not be protected by a breaker which won't snap until more than 40 amps hit it. A #10 wire will burn up (and burn your house down) before that 40-amp breaker even thinks about snapping.

And limiting each use to only one or two burners or just the oven will not bypass the potential for disaster. Burners burn out and when they do they can create dead shorts, causing uncontrolled amperage to run wild. When that happens, the only thing that can keep that wire from burning up inside your walls is a breaker rated at no more amperage than the maximum the wire is able to carry safely.

Apartment-size ranges require at least a #8 wire and full-size ranges require a #6 wire. You might get by with #8 and a 40-amp breaker on a full-size range, but it wouldn't be my choice.

Bite the bullet and rewire the thing for the size range you'll be connecting to.

Or forget the range and just get a hotplate for that #10 wire -- with a 30-amp breaker.

Unless, of course, you enjoy watching house fires.

EDIT: You don't necessarily have to rip out walls and cabinets. You can probably figure a route for surface-mount electrical conduit or the higher-priced Wiremold and run the new wire along baseboards, walls, etc., to a new -- and properly sized -- range outlet. And just leave the old #10 circuit for other uses.

[This message has been edited by HBB (edited August 20, 2002).]

TAM

03:32PM | 08/20/02
Member Since: 08/19/02
3 lifetime posts
Congrats, HBB. Your post says it all.

pOps, If the appliance calls for a certain min. or max. you must do it, for no other reason if you don't it will void your warranty. HBB is correct about rewiring. There may be a number of ways to do it without distroying your home. Do you have a basement? An attic? Is it on an outside wall?

rpxlpx....It would do you good to look up the word liability.

BV001360

10:41PM | 06/19/13
Why dont you just use a 30 amp breaker...

if it trips, you know not to use so many burners on high.

putting a 40 amp breaker with 30 amp wire deserves a couple dozen kicks in the groin.

-Barry Obama

BV001463

11:30PM | 07/02/13
Yes, you must run a 40 amp circuit. I run into this all the time as an electrician. People will buy a stove, dryer or other appliance only to find they do not have the circuit for it. Wire ampacity ratings, circuit design and demand factors are designed to protect you and your property. It often cost hundreds more than the appliance to run the circuit, depending on the location, building type, etc. And I would not put anything above a 20 amp circuit in wiremold, it is just too dangerous. It always amazes me how people think they can be electricians. I actually got a degree in business from a top ranked university,and was admitted to Law School, but getting my electrical licenses was much harder. I can pass all the code tests easily, but it really takes years to get practical experience. It really is easier to become a lawyer, doctor or engineer, plus you don't have to work hard. So if you think you'll just make something work electrically, its not that easy.

BV001582

10:11PM | 07/16/13
BV001463, you really think highly of your profession, don't you? Some of us are better at one thing than another. Get off your high horse and be helpful, and leave the derogatory comments out. What's the point in insulting those who are asking for advice? I'm sure there are things that you have tried, and will try, that you don't already know everything about. You learn by trying.
Back to the question at hand, the breaker should always be matched to the wire supporting the load. If the wire is 10 gauge, it should be on a 30 amp breaker. If you leave it this way, it will work. However, you WILL pop the breaker on a regular basis, you WILL void the warranty for the stove, and if you have a house fire the insurance company will probably blame it on your insufficient wiring (regardless of whether that's the cause or not) and they probably won't pay. SO, while the 30 amp circuit will work, upgrading the circuit is highly recommended.

BV001726

07:42PM | 08/01/13
What about getting a dual fuel stove? Its nice to cook with gas on the top. Then the #10 would likely work, depending on the electric oven requirements. In other words if you have to run something new, why not a gas line? Of course you would need a pro to do the gas work.

BV001738

09:37PM | 08/02/13
No. 10 AWG is rated for 40 amps. NEC states that it can only be installed on a 30 amp breaker due to derating of 60 degree wire

BV001790

04:31PM | 08/10/13
You guys are a bunch of evil experts, cut the man some slack, I say give it a whirl the way it exists with the 30 amp breaker, it'll just trip in the worst case and still protect the wire, as for the "expert" electricians on this post maybe consider the term 'safety factor' as it exsists to cover your ass when you knobs fuck something up

BV001796

10:19AM | 08/11/13
?

BV001821

04:09PM | 08/14/13
What about anyone who comes after you. If the breaker trips over and over, what do you think will be the first thing they would do? Get a larger capacity breaker of course. Ampacity ratings of wires for circuit breakers are reduced largely because a 30 AMP breaker won't trip at 31 AMPS. It could take hours of slightly over current conditions to heat up the breaker enough to trip but the wire can be cooking.

BV001844

04:36PM | 08/16/13
You gents are aware that p0ps posted that question over eleven years ago, right? His house has undoubtedly burned down long ago. It's a valuable discussion for future generations, to be sure, but addressing the OP seems futile.

(Sorry to jump in, but I've seen more than a few old threads revived in my life, but this one is downright ancient!)

BV002831

07:21PM | 12/19/13
Hey, I just read this thread because I'm in the same boat. Old stove decided to retire in the middle of making tea, and I ordered a new stovetop not really knowing much about it. So, in the end I should have done more research because I ended up with a stove asking for a 40Amp circuit but I only have a 30 amp circuit. I think what I'm going to do is what a few people suggested, just try to hook it up on the 30 amp circuit, knowing that the breaker will trip if it draws too much. Funds are kind of tight right now and since I don't believe this to be an immediate safety issue as long as i don't swap the breaker without swapping the wire I think that will be okay. That said, after the holidays I will probably have someone rerun the wire when I can afford it.

BV002904

11:17AM | 01/01/14
That's not a good choice, putting a 40A load on a 30A circuit. If you are going to be regularly taxing the capacity of the circuit you are going to be relying on the protective device over and over and over to save you. Theoretically, you should be ok but things fail. You will be putting continued heat stress on the wiring insulation, that will start to break down over time. Breakers fail or don't respond as quickly as you'd like.

NEC says that your protective devices need to match the 'weakest' part of a circuit, I don't know if it mentions about putting on a known load that exceeds the capacity of the weakest part of a circuit, irrespective of the rating of the protective device.

BV003452

12:35PM | 03/06/14
Always use wire to match the breaker and vice-versa. HOWEVER Read your EXACT model's electrical requirements. Depending on your manufacturer, they will probably state 40 Amps for all models (because they are lazy to address them all individually and for liability purposes). When a house fire occurs because you used a 40 Amp service into a device that only needs 16 Amps (such as my wall oven model), the liability is on the manufacturer that told you to use a circuit over twice what it should be.

BV005031

07:40AM | 07/18/14
Number 8 awg for 40 amps

BV000193

08:43AM | 07/19/14
Rhiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight.

BV005087

12:49PM | 07/23/14
ha. It may be old an old thread but I just found I have this problem this week! The existing circuit is 30 amps. It used to be just a range top. Then wifey decided she wanted gas on top and electric oven below. The book says to use 40/50 amp circuit. I am suspicious that this requirement is put in there for all models not necessarily this one. Because the original wiring (must have been code, house is 20 yrs old) for the electric wall oven is 30 amps. So why isn't the existing 30 amp circuit good enough for the new oven, if the wall oven runs on 30 amps? Remember the new range top is gas.

BV005087

01:20PM | 07/23/14
OOPS. I just checked by box. The stove is supplied with 30 amp on 10 gauge. The wall oven is on a 40 amp breaker. So I guess an new oven is gonna need a 40 amp with an 8 gauge.

BV006334

12:16PM | 11/20/14
The length of the run has a lot to do with the required gauge wire. unless the breaker panel is on the other side of the wall from the range i would never run 10 gauge on a 40 amp breaker, it's just asking for a fire. i can't think of the last time i used more than 2 burners on my stove so i doubt you would ever need more than 30 amps. if i were in your shoes i would hook it up and start turning on burners to see when the breaker pops. if you can run the oven and two top burners i think you would be good for any practical use of the stove.

BV006391

10:58AM | 11/29/14
10 gauge is will not work for a range don't do it most stoves can draw up to 50 Amps ! if that happens your wire in the walls will turn red like them burners on that stove !!!!

BV006712

04:10PM | 01/09/15
If you do not use over a 30amp breaker you can try the stove using the 10 gage wire that is already there, the breaker will simply click off if the stove draws too much amperage.

I have owned many rental properties and very rarely see the ranges wired with 8 gage wire and 40 amp circuits. While the manufacturer and electrical code does require this, most of your basic ranges will run with out a problem on the 30amp circuit and 10 gage wire. Around the holidays you may have to hold off on using every burner and the oven at the same time, but for day to day use I've never had any problems.

BV006712

04:29PM | 01/09/15
Ok... and for all the electricians who are going to say NO>>> WAY>>> to what I just said. This is what the American Wire Gauge recommends:

240V (US) (@ 80% max load)
(50ft run or less)

Gauge Amps Watts
#16 9 2160
#14 12 2880
#12 16 3840
#10 24 5760
#8 32 7680
#6 40 9600
#4 48 11520

As you can see the 10 Gauge wire can fall short, but most stoves use between 4000-8000 watts. It is in the range, not perfect but in the range and I've never had a breaker snap, nor have any of my tenants.

BV007579

11:50AM | 04/17/15
You are just forgetting some physics... The wire length is crucial to the calculation. If it's a longer run, thicker wire is needed... You can calculate the heat dissipation based on amperage and AWG and wire length...

BV009022

04:45PM | 09/22/15
I just ran into a similar situation. Rather than discarding the #10 wire, I ran a #12 wire in parallel and connected it to the same breaker (40 Amps) and the same outlet. I have now a 50 Amps (30 + 20) "wire" protected by a 40 Amp breaker. I have no idea what the NEC says about it, but I don't care because this is 100% technically correct. As a matter of fact, larger motors (250 Amps and above) are almost always fed by multiple wires (1/0 to 4/0 and 250 MCM to 500 MCM). There is no wire big enough to feed an 800 Amp motor for example, so multiple wire are always used!

BV009129

07:27PM | 10/04/15
two wires are a bad idea. If one fails, orloosens, the 50 amp breaker is protecting a 20 amp wire - it will never trip and the wire will melt. Where 2 wires are used they need to be of IDENTICAL length to make the resistance equal and prevent one wire taking a greater load. It would also be a good idea to use a separate breaker appropriate to each wire. There a strict rules for parallel wires to circumvent such a problem!

BV009235

12:27PM | 10/16/15
I have never seen so much bad advise in one thread. There has only been a handful of people who were correct. No, you cannot use a 30 amp circuit for your range. Here's something else to keep in mind for the idiots saying you can. When you have a fire, and the fire department comes out and determines the problem, good luck getting paid from the insurance company. This is against code and a major safety hazard. PERIOD. If you don't have the money to do it right, or you're clueless, don't do it at all.

BV009546

09:59PM | 11/17/15
I have been an electrician for years, don' be an idiot and try any of the BS written here. Use number 6 wire with a 50 amp breaker for your range.

BV010277

07:49PM | 01/26/16
Just use the 30 amp breaker and you will be fine, unless you are paranoid or something. The code is generally 40 amp breaker and 8 gauge wire nmd90 (90 degree celsius rating wire) .
The breaker will pop long before any problems.

I ran a rental house beside mine for 2 years on a 10/3 gauge wire with not a 40 amp, but a 60 amp fuse.
No problems , the wire got warm(35 c) but did not melt

BV011178

10:57AM | 04/07/16
Anyone reading this do not use 10 gauge wire on a 60 amp breaker like stated above. This is very unsafe. May be fine for a time assuming nothing over 30 amps is drawn, but when something shorts and draws an uncontained current, there will be a fire, and doing this is pure negligence.

BV013087

12:23PM | 10/06/16
Anyone considering 10awg with a 30 amp breaker for a 40A range really needs their head examined, period!!!

Do it right, hire a licensed electrician to do the install and have the proper wire installed to match the requirements set by the manufacturer.

To all those telling anyone "oh its ok" or those quoting remedial math like amps X voltage = watts etc. stop giving bad advice, it's not just simple ohms law here, there are other factors involved here as well.

And to those that say "I have apartments I have done this to" or "I have done this years ago and I have had no problems thus far" you are all playing Russian roulette.

STOP, STOP, STOP it.
If it says #8awg and 40 amp breaker or #6awg and 50 amp breaker than that is what you use!!! If you can't afford the proper wire and breaker sizing than you should not be installing it or you should look at something smaller that can fit your budget.

BV013512

12:07PM | 12/18/16
Whats funny is you run all the wire in and when you get to the stove it has 10ga wire feeding it..... from the factory.....

BV014424

09:44PM | 08/04/17
bvo 13513512.

you are exactly right. My cooktop specifies a 40 amp circuit yet the whip on the cooktop is #10.
Thinking about it is driving me nuts. I ran a #8 on a 40 amp breaker and then hooked it up to the #10 coming from the cooktop. How is that #10 protected?
And to the guy who said it is more complicated being an electrician than a physician...pass the bong.

BV014462

02:26PM | 08/09/17
The whip on the appliance is very short compared to your wire run and they use an insulation that resists a higher temperature to accomplish this. If you were only 2 feet from your breaker and used the same quality wire you might be able to use the gauge wire as the appliance, but I'm betting your wire run is much longer so you need a bigger wire.

BV014965

07:41PM | 10/21/17
I did not see anywhere in this thread what the actual draw of the appliance was in Watts= just use a 40 amp circuit
If it's not on the tag get it from the mfg
If you knew the watts and the run length and the allowable temperature rise you could calculate
in addition running to large a service= like 50 or 60 amps is just as hazardous as running smaller than the suggested 4o amps The larger service might never trip with damage to the shorter wires in the appliance
What is also unsafe is not running a 4 wire system
If you do not have a separate ground STOP 3 wire systems can be killers

BV014965

07:54PM | 10/21/17
I did not mention that
The National Electric Code (NEC) requires that the gauge wire used for a circuit must be able to handle 125 percent of the load's continuous current plus the load's noncontinuous current.
So once you get the actual draw from the mfg you have to increase by 25%
=you can ignore the clock but not any heat lamps or microwave or convection oven feature
then pick the breaker to protect the wire size selected - or smaller
you do not want your wires to act as fuses or electric heaters

BV015143

03:03PM | 11/16/17
Wow

BV015709

05:43PM | 02/12/18
I'm replacing my current Dual-Fuel range with a new one - a double-oven version. The manufacturer recommends a 40 amp 240 volt service. I currently have 30 Amp 240 V fed by AWG 10 wire. Each oven, on maximum broil only consumes 3400 watts - or 6800 watts in total. Dividing by 240, that means only about 28 Amps are needed. Even allowing for a few watts for the computer controller and igniters, I should be still ok with my 30 amp service. Am I correct? Or, do I need to replace my AWG 10 with 8 and go 40 Amp? Also - I looked at the same oven in an all electric model - with an inductive cooktop. I added all the elements wattage up and found that this oven would use 17,000 watts with all burners on high and both ovens on broil. Yet - this oven also calls for a 40 Amp 240 V service. What am i missing here? Thanks for your help!

BV015905

12:50PM | 03/12/18
The last two posts are the only two that should even be on here. Everything else posted simply scares the hell out of me. I'm certain in the first few pages of that manual that you obviously read it says to hire a qualified electrician to install your range/oven. I have never read anything as ignorant as this post in my entire life. Especially the part where a 220/240 appliance uses 120v on each leg to "control" different things. In fact just run it on the 40 amp breaker and 10 wire because you my friend deserve to have your house burn down if you even attempt to wire this oven on your own. Also anywhere that you have done wiring , like you stated earlier you should contact whoever lives there and tell them to have a master electrician come to their house immediately before they die a horrible death in their sleep. Do the world a favor and don't ever ever ever ever ever think about doing any electrical work. Not even in your dreams should you be doing electrical work. As they stated before bite the bullet and do it the proper way. Which based upon your lack of electrical knowledge would mean hiring a licensed contractor to do this job for you.

BV016197

01:08AM | 04/21/18
I would like to add to this thread by saying if you can't afford to run #8 copper wire to your stove you can use #6 aluminum on a 40 amp breaker, every 40 amp breaker and range receptacle i've ever seen was rated for copper AND aluminum, just be sure you use the proper antioxidant paste at the termination points and torque the lugs to spec and it should be perfectly safe to use #6 aluminum for this application

BV016548

07:20PM | 06/06/18
If it pulls more than 30 amps, the #10 could overheat and burn your house down. Be safe and replace it with #8. Don't risk that.

BV017037

11:56AM | 08/02/18
I built my Mother in laws house , concrete everything, run no.8 for electric stove because wasn't sure. got the stove months after running wire, connected the stove and look at this sh!t, it has a no. 14 wire factory whip!

use the no.10 and 30 amp breaker, if on the off chance the breaker trips all the time go bigger at that point but it wont. the 30 amp breaker protects the wire not the stove so no worries about fire danger.

BV017093

02:48AM | 08/09/18
Okay, I know this is an old thread but can all you brainyacks answer on question please!!!! Why when I buy a stove/oven that needs 40/50 amp service The manufacturers wire coming out of unit is only 10 gauge wire?????

BV017136

02:12AM | 08/15/18
Because the manufacturer does vodo magic to their wires...

BV017919

10:27PM | 11/09/18
It's not that complicated folks...

A 30A circuit should be fed by 10AWG wire. If your load is over 30A, It might run for a few minutes beyond 30A before it trips a breaker.
NEC says for constant loads, you should only use it at 80%, or 24A, which is only 5760 Watts. If your range is not likely to see 5760W, then you'll probably get by just fine with a 30A circuit breaker.

The length of the wire is mostly irrelevant. It has a mostly constant resistance per foot.. longer wire will dissipate more heat, yes, but it's also dissipating that extra heat over it's extra length.
10awg is .999 ohms per thousand feet. If your stove is 100ft from your panel, that's 200ft of wire, or 0.2 ohms. Power=I^2xR, so at 30A you've got 180 Watts of heat dissipated by the wire (in your insulated walls), which seems scary, but is only 2 Watts per foot of romex. Because V=IxR , you'll also have a voltage drop of 6V at that full, 30A load.
Since you're probably not operating all 4 burners and oven on full blast for 8 hours on end, the wiring won't heat up that much. (Unlike an EV charger which does run for hours)

The reason manufactures might use a 10AWG or smaller cord while recommending a 40A circuit is because they can. First, they likely don't actually use more than the 5700W maximum sustained load with everything on. Second, the 10AWG cord isn't buried in an insulated wall like the rest of your cable. Third, the voltage drop over 5ft is pretty insignificant.
The manufacturer may recommend a 40A circuit so that the stove and oven perform better under full load. Remember that 6V voltage drop? A 5000W nominal stove at 240V would use about 21A and is basically an 11.5 ohm load. Add the 0.2ohms the wire introduced, the current drops to 20.5A, and that 5000W stove only runs at 4800W. This isn't an extreme example, but consider a longer run of cable.

Check out what the total wattage of the load is. If all the elements and oven are less than 80% (5760W) then you'll be fine.

BV018181

12:24PM | 12/11/18
buy cialis online cheap
cialis 20

BV018297

03:13PM | 12/30/18
follow the code,load demand,correct wire size and required breaker to protect the feed wire to appliance.trying to cheap out will cause problems ,spiking effecting any software/circuit boards and the old enemy=heat. wire warms up,resistance increases,amperage flow stars to slightly decrease causing more heat to build up in supply wire causing even more resistance and heat ,the problems increase,
why is it such a problem to follow code for your safety,instead wasting time to cheap out.hire a licensed electrician,if he screws up his license and him or her who is on the license will be liable.don't hire some unlicensed handyman,it's not worth the risk.and to run a paralel wire to increase amp carrying capacity,might induce a shunt effect.a waste of time.

BV018298

03:19PM | 12/30/18
follow the code,load demand,correct wire size and required breaker to protect the feed wire to appliance.trying to cheap out will cause problems ,spiking effecting any software/circuit boards and the old enemy=heat. wire warms up,resistance increases,amperage flow stars to slightly decrease causing more heat to build up in supply wire causing even more resistance and heat ,the problems increase,
why is it such a problem to follow code for your safety,instead wasting time to cheap out.hire a licensed electrician,if he screws up his license and him or her who is on the license will be liable.don't hire some unlicensed handyman,it's not worth the risk.and to run a paralel wire to increase amp carrying capacity,might induce a shunt effect.a waste of time.

BV018308

08:45AM | 12/31/18
I had the same problem, I hired an electrician, yes I had some drywall repairs to do but I sleep well at night! Permits, proper wire, proper breaker and inspected.
When I asked about using the existing circuit, his answer “NO”.

BV018309

12:55PM | 12/31/18
Our Canadian code states the breaker needs to be 30 amp for number 10 but if you Look at the wiring ampacity table at 90 degrees the number 10 is good for 40amp. So termination temp falls into play and usually is 75 degrees at the breaker so we get 30 amps. Now if we put number 8 to the breaker then connect in a junction box to the number 10 so not ripping everything out. And as long as the stove receptical shows 90degree termination temp then you can co number 10 right to it or just a small peice if number 8 off the plug and marrett to the number 8 in the box

BV018365

09:52PM | 01/06/19
Plug it into your circuit and run it with everything on and take basic measurements to test the actual load. It probly falls short of 30Amps. Mine started at 24ish amps then went down to 22amps after it got hot.

BV018625

02:27PM | 02/07/19
The only person on this tread who is correct is BV009546 #6 wire and a 50 amp breaker is the only safe way to go. I am not an electrician but when I am in doubt I always check with a local electrician before doing any work.


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