Latest Discussions : Miscellaneous


10:23AM | 01/26/07
Member Since: 01/25/07
2 lifetime posts
I am going to attempt to tile a kitchen backsplash, and I have never tiled before. I've done lots of research, though, but the one thing I can't figure out for sure is what type of adhesive to use. Most of the backsplash will be small mosaic glass tiles which are mounted on mesh. Some accent tiles will be travertine and porcelain. What I've read numerous times is I can use an organic mastic, but I've also read I should use a latex modified thinset. Which would be best for a true beginner?


05:48PM | 01/28/07
Member Since: 07/03/05
283 lifetime posts
If the glass tiles are see through, with no paper tape backing on the tile, then you should use the white modified thinset because whatever is behind the tile will show through. Keep a sponge and a bucket of clean water handy to wipe any oozing thinset out of the grout lines or you will have a real chore to clean them before the grout goes in.

Being that this is your first attempt, you certainly didnt choose an easy one to cut your teeth on.

I'll let you in on a secret of the trade that may make the job easier. When I set glass mosaics. I use a special liquid latex additive from Laticrete called 4237 and I mix it with unsanded grout in the color that I want to be my finished grout. This concoction becomes my setting bed, taking the place of the thinset. The trick is finding the 4237, it usually only comes in 5 gallon buckets for about $100, and finding a grout that can be mixed with a latex additive, Tec, Laticrete and Hydroment are national brands that can. If it cant it will say so on the back of the box, like Custom from HD.

Anyway, the beauty of this is that any of the mix that oozes through the grout lines doesn't have to be picked clean, just smoothed with a sponge and water because it will match the grout that is put in when you finish the job. Its sort of like having a paint primer tinted to the same color as the finish paint going on a wall. It also has a good bite on the wall so there is less chance of the mosaics sagging under their own weight.


06:19AM | 01/29/07
Member Since: 01/25/07
2 lifetime posts
The glass tiles we are using do have paper tape backing on them. However, the grout we will use, (recommended by the tile store where we purchased the tiles), is by Polyblend; it is non-sanded, polymer fortified, and there is a note that says "do not use additives." So I'm afraid we won't be able to use your generously provided secret of the trade. Given that we won't have to worry about the adhesive showing through the tiles, would using the organic mastic be appropriate? I only ask this because a friend of mine has done some tiling and says the mastic is much easier to work with than thinset. (I just want to use what is most appropriate for glass mosaics.) Either way, if whatever we use oozes though the grout lines, I gather we will have to be sure to clean between the grout lines before we grout???

As you hinted, I'm afraid I may have gotten in over my head with this project. But I'm determined, and I plan to take my time and be very careful. Thanks so much for your input.


04:01PM | 02/11/07
Member Since: 02/10/07
1 lifetime posts
I'm also embarking on my first kitchen tiling project and I am in need of some suggestions. First, I am tiling from my sink backsplash around an inward corner, behind my stove and to the end of the wall (total of an 'L' shape kitchen). When I get to the edge of the wall where the tile will end, should I install a rounded corner tile or a bull nose accent tile? Second, when I get to the corner of the inward wall, should I set the last set of tiles back from the corner enough to all for the next set of tiles on the adjacent wall to but up evenly or should I let them overlap? I am using 3/4 inch mosaic glass tiles that come on a 12x12 inch contact paper sheet with the back exposed.


05:17PM | 02/13/07
Member Since: 07/03/05
283 lifetime posts
Those 3/4" tile are so thin you wont need to use and type of edging. Just let the grout finish the edge. On the inside corner you can overlap one with the other but leave about a 1/8" gap. That gap should be filled with a caulk made by the grout company and be color matched to the grout. The same should be done alng the countertop where the tilecome down to it. Grout will crack in those spots over time.


11:15AM | 06/22/11
Member Since: 06/22/11
1 lifetime posts
3/4" tiles are nice easier size. You will need latex modified thinset, this comes either pre-mixed or as a powder; in this case you do the mixing. You will need to spread the thinset onto the substrate thin with a 3/16" trowel at a 45 Degree Angle. Only do small amounts at a time because thinset dries fast. Once you apply the tile, allow 24 hours to dry and then you may grout. Follow the directions on the grout bag and if you have any problems or concerns contact a professional. Look for some kitchen backsplash ideas and completed pictures you can compare to.


11:31PM | 07/30/14
Had the same issue as you - personally i bought my backsplash from here:

Had no issues with it, and after 2 years, still looks great!
Here's a picture of the product, hope this helps!

Charleston crosshatch silver 419l  89054.1341091645.386.513


01:52AM | 05/25/18
Member Since: 04/27/18
2 lifetime posts
Suggesting you, use Michaelangelo tiles for your kitchen it looks great you can buy it from here

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