04:25AM | 01/20/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

did they claim the work, the inside french drain system, took care of problem?

any house that has cracks or other openings in the basement wall(s) should fix these problems on the Outside. Hand dig to footing, haul soil away,waterproof correctly and backfill w/peastone-gravel.

looks like ya have alot of roots there,hope the walls aren`t bowing in.

sloping the soil `n gutters diverts 'Surface water'....5-10' whatever feet away. It doesn`t waterproof the crack(s)! It doesn`t take any lateral-hydrostatic pressure or tree roots off the outside of basements walls.

sloping/gutters and Inside systems do Stop/Prevent water from Entering through the cracks `n any other Outside openings into house.

they don`t seal/waterproof these cracks etc and so it wont stop water/moisture, wont stop mold,wont stop the possibility of radon and termites entering through these same cracks. Wont help stop efflorescence either.

any part of a basement floor left open w/ no concrete provides easy access for radon,water/moisture etc. Sounds like you`ll need to address this as well. Doing something with the floor wont stop water from entering through cracks.


05:23AM | 01/20/06
Member Since: 01/19/06
2 lifetime posts
Thanks for the fast reply. As far as I can tell, the walls aren't bowing, but I do want to get rid of the trees sitting close to the house for several other reasons too. I've only been living in the house for two weeks now, so a lot of this is "once it gets warmer out" material.

I bought the house knowing that it had a leaky basement, and that the french drain system would, if anything, just keep water directed towards the sump pump.

The basement, in the front, is about 5-6 feet deep. If digging and backfilling would provide positive results, is this still something that I should look into doing myself? I'm not adverse to breaking my back, but for something this important, I'd almost rather pay to have it done by someone reputable.

I've decided that I don't want some 'waterproofing solution' company come to my place, slap down their 'patented fix-all powder/tile/widget' and leave me the literal opposite of high and dry. Would it be wise to hire an inspector to come and decide a course of action for me? Basically, do you have a working clone in the NY area? :)


09:54AM | 01/20/06
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

you said, 'as far as you can tell the walls aren`t bowing in' there paneling or drywall against this front area?

or you can see the walls and there is no bowing?

Hopefully the latter.

it sure is a nice area and house for ya.

JB- basement waterproofing 1 wall or more, imo, should be left to the those who understand all involved, for instance,once it is dug out it 'could' cave in...the bank side(dirt) could cave in and trap you/others underground.

Although, with 5-6' depth it is Not as 'likely'. Many other things too,so imo, hire an....honest pro.

If you/other only had 1 crack on 1 wall then all that would be needed is hand digging to footing and the trench could be easily/smartly be sloped.

i wish i knew someone for you but sorry i do not. Just take a lil time and do some homework on those you will consider for job. ONLY want the front done, and nothing else,it 'looks' like the front is what....30 to 36' long? Let`s say 36' and the depth to footing is 5 1/2 ft.

Thats a 1 day job (hand dug), waterproofed and backfilled correctly,everything cleaned up etc,and we would charge $2,800 to $2,975. This at least gives you a good idea. 20 year transeferable guarantee on..ALL Waterproofed footage. One can Only guarantee where one works.

To me, you don`t need an inspector, you need an honest/experienced waterproofing contractor, thats my opinion. i guess what i am saying is,why spend x-amount on inspector when you can use that $ towards the cost of actual job. i am not trying to kick the inspectors, though most inspectors do Not have hands-on experience or true knowledge on this subject. Some are very good with Other matters, know what i mean?



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