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1Newbie

08:35AM | 03/23/04
Member Since: 03/22/04
2 lifetime posts
Bvtools
My living room, dining area, kitchen and half of my main hallway all share the same ceiling. By that I mean there is no wall separating those rooms. I have 12 1/2 ft vaulted ceilings in my living room which slope to 8 1/2 along one wall that flows into the dining area. The kichen is also 12 1/2 feet. I am replacing the ugly old rug in the living room with a Pergo floor and plan to redo the baseboards. Currently the ones installed are the regular 3" size. I read in a carpentry book that there are different heights the baseboards should be for different size rooms. Specifically 10" for 12 ft and above. Has anyone else run into this and/or what are some suggestions?

homebild

02:10PM | 03/24/04
Member Since: 01/28/03
693 lifetime posts
There is no such 'rule' for baseboard heights and otherwise or vaulted ceilings.

In fact, there is no rule that you even need to have baseboards.

I would suggest, however, that you rethink using Pergo flooring since it is a crap product and only cheapens any home in which it is installed...jmho.

1Newbie

02:41PM | 03/24/04
Member Since: 03/22/04
2 lifetime posts
Thanks for the reply. So is there a type of flooring you would recommend? Carpet is no option. Also, what are your experiences doing any trim work or floor installations? Anything I should watch for?

rolandk10

06:44PM | 03/25/04
Member Since: 03/21/04
7 lifetime posts
I know some carpenters are going to blast me for this but if you are planing on painting your base and crown, you can save a whole ton of time mitering the inside corners. coping is great but I use it now only when I do a stain quality install or I have some weird wall conversions. It's not that I raised the price of a coped job but was able to lower the price of a piant quality job. I mean, what's the differeince if you can just caulk and paint. It looks the same and saves you time and frustration.

If you are going to cope corners, I always do my cope end first then cut to legth. That way you can make sure the peice fits without haveing to scrap a coped cut. On a simple base it's no big deal but on a detailed peice, coping always makes my whole arm cramp up and I don't want to keep doing them over for no reason.

For crown, think of your layout first. picture how you are going to put up your first piece and your last peice. Sometimes it's easier to en on an outside corner so you don't have to squeeae in a little piece or have a lenght with copes at both ends.

Also, make up little sample peices. One for each outside corner (or in side if you miter) so when you put up a piece, you can adjust it to fit the mating piece before you nail it down. I usually have two boards made up, one for outside corners and one for inside. Make sure it's long enough to get past the 10" or so build up of drywall mud at the corners. 16 to 18 inches ir fairly manageable. Just cut each end with oposing corners.

For hardwood floors, look at a cross section of the material. laminated flooring doesn't mean formica but acually how the peice is engieneered. It's a few layers glued together with their grains running in opposite directions. You want to see the top layer be about 1/8th inch. This way the floor can be resanded and refinished or repaired if scrathced. I believe the Pergo product uses a very thin veneer or sticker and it isn't refinishable. That's what really makes it worthless. Any product you choose just make sure you follow the manufacturers directions. Some are intended to be floating floors (not attached to the sub floor) and some get nailed down. The former is easier for a DIYer.

Good luck with your project! With the research you are doing I know it will come out great!
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