I am trying to install new shut off valves oin bathroom sink because the existing have no handles. Can you tell me the best way to go about doing this as plumbing is not my strong point
COMMUNITY FORUM
1- Shut off water supply
2-drain water possibly one floor below the fixture your working on
3-have a basin wrench close by
4-disconnect the water supply from the faucet (you may have to lie on your back as you use the basin wrench.
5- Using TWO wrenches disconnect the supply piping and then unscrew the valves holding back as to not break the threads or possibly screwing the piping out of the wall
6- Using Teflon tape or other thread sealant wrap the exposed threads and screw on the new valves again holding back on the nipple protruding out of the wall.
7- close the new valves turn on the water supply and let out the air on the new valves with a bucket up it and check for leaks.
8- install a new supply copper tubing Chrome plated or CP brass nipples DO NOT use the crap stainless steel or plastic flex junk sold in big box stores.
Good luck
2-drain water possibly one floor below the fixture your working on
3-have a basin wrench close by
4-disconnect the water supply from the faucet (you may have to lie on your back as you use the basin wrench.
5- Using TWO wrenches disconnect the supply piping and then unscrew the valves holding back as to not break the threads or possibly screwing the piping out of the wall
6- Using Teflon tape or other thread sealant wrap the exposed threads and screw on the new valves again holding back on the nipple protruding out of the wall.
7- close the new valves turn on the water supply and let out the air on the new valves with a bucket up it and check for leaks.
8- install a new supply copper tubing Chrome plated or CP brass nipples DO NOT use the crap stainless steel or plastic flex junk sold in big box stores.
Good luck
In addition there are 3 different ways that stop valves are attached to the supply pipes.
1. Soldered - leave it alone.
2. Threaded - Either you have galvanized steel pipe coming out of the wall or you have copper with a male adapter screwed on. If it is steel then you need a pipe wrench on the pipe and a adjustable wrench on the back of the valve.
If it is copper then you need an adjustable wrench on the male fitting and one on the back of the valve.
3. Compression - This is most common in my area. There is copper pipe coming out of the wall. Over that a nut is placed along with the compression ring. The valve has male threads and after the nut is scewed on and tightened the compression ring bits into the pipe and can't be removed without cutting the pipe. You need to adjustable wrenches (or a good channel lock type of pliers). One on the compression nut and the other on the back of the valve.
I have had good results reusing the existing compression nut and ring (otherwise you need to cut the pipe and often there is not enough extra). Also put a small amount of pipe dope on the threads. Not for sealing, but to lubricate tham and help get it tightenough to seal.
Look at what you have and then go to a store with a good selection and find the type that matches.
Also note that size of the outlet connection (3/8's in most cases) and if it is straight or right angle.
Get the Ball Valve or 1/4 Turn valve. They are much more reliable than the old compression valves.
1. Soldered - leave it alone.
2. Threaded - Either you have galvanized steel pipe coming out of the wall or you have copper with a male adapter screwed on. If it is steel then you need a pipe wrench on the pipe and a adjustable wrench on the back of the valve.
If it is copper then you need an adjustable wrench on the male fitting and one on the back of the valve.
3. Compression - This is most common in my area. There is copper pipe coming out of the wall. Over that a nut is placed along with the compression ring. The valve has male threads and after the nut is scewed on and tightened the compression ring bits into the pipe and can't be removed without cutting the pipe. You need to adjustable wrenches (or a good channel lock type of pliers). One on the compression nut and the other on the back of the valve.
I have had good results reusing the existing compression nut and ring (otherwise you need to cut the pipe and often there is not enough extra). Also put a small amount of pipe dope on the threads. Not for sealing, but to lubricate tham and help get it tightenough to seal.
Look at what you have and then go to a store with a good selection and find the type that matches.
Also note that size of the outlet connection (3/8's in most cases) and if it is straight or right angle.
Get the Ball Valve or 1/4 Turn valve. They are much more reliable than the old compression valves.
