04:34PM | 06/07/03
Member Since: 06/06/03
1250 lifetime posts
Hello group, I am new to the electrical forum and hopefully I'm not rehashing too much old ground here...

I would like to put in a kitchen "island" with electricity, and have 2 questions for this forum:

1. Ideally, the island is made up of mostly kitchen cabinets. Do I need to install a 2x4 stud wall by the island so that I have room for electrical boxes? (Or is there some way to avoid doing the extra 2x4 wall step?)

2. Is it totally unheard of in the USA to install 220v outlets for basic appliances in kitchens? Like many people who have traveled somewhat around the world, I find 110v power really anemic and miss what 220v can accomplish. For example, European 220v "carafes" for boiling water are just awesome! Obviously, appliances would have to work on our 60Hz power, but if there's even a chance of using such devices down the line, I'd like to go ahead and put the power in. I guess the obvious follow-up question would be, is there such thing as a 220v GFCI...

Any help is appreciated, thank you much!


08:31AM | 06/09/03
Member Since: 03/13/00
1678 lifetime posts
Running 220 to an island isn't unusual because electric ranges are sometimes placed in islands. But using European appliances is another matter. You'd have to buy or make your own conversion connectors. Theirs won't connect to U.S.-style outlets.
And anything other than a heating element would likely be sensitive to the difference between 50 and 60 hz.
(Which country's appliances are you thinking of? There are many different power cords and connectors used in Europe - for example, Spain, Italy, and UK each use different power cords.)

[This message has been edited by rpxlpx (edited June 09, 2003).]


09:31AM | 06/09/03
Member Since: 06/06/03
1250 lifetime posts
Thanks rpxlpx for the reply!

Not sure really, about which country's appliance I'd be using. Ideally I'd like to find an appliance (such as the electric kettle) that is already set up to work with USA standard 220 plugs and wiring (but I have yet to see such a thing). I guess this means a giant cord/plug (like those found on air conditioners)--I have yet to see any appliances here with such wiring. Thinking to myself, this could just end up being more effort than it's worth... but I bet in a few years we have such appliances here.

By the way, would you happen to know if I have to build a 2x4 wall in back of cabinetry to run the wiring through (up through the floor)? Somehow, I assume I will (as that's what they'd done before--even though it used to be a more sophisticated arrangement--a peninsula with Jennaire. We're just going to a freestanding stove in another place.)

Thanks again for the reply!


07:19PM | 06/09/03
Hi! There are a few 220V kitchen appliances available in the U.S., but they are commercial restaurant equipment. If you are ready to pay the price, these appliances are worth it as they are more rugged as household appliances, and as you said, they are also more powerful. I have myself a Hobart commercial toaster that works on 220V and it's simply awesome. I paid 300$ for it 9 years ago and it still works great. It is meant to work on 15-amp, 220V circuit, so its cord is the same size as a regular 3-prong cord, except that its blades are horizontal instead of vertical. If you look in the yellow pages under "restaurant supplies", you should find a dealer near you. Good luck!


11:14AM | 06/10/03
Member Since: 06/06/03
1250 lifetime posts
Great info, thanks! Not sure I want to spend all that money yet for a toaster, etc., but it would be nice to have the wiring in, just in case these things get a bit more 'mainstream' in the future.

Just wondering, does that toaster have a large plug/wire (like an air conditioner)? Not sure my wife would care for huge wires around the kitchen (although they'd definitely add a more macho "look and feel" for me!


04:32PM | 06/10/03
Member Since: 08/30/02
35 lifetime posts
you don't necessarily need to have a 2x4 wall behind your cabinets for the wiring - it's just a wall is a great place to hide the wiring...otherwise the wiring needs to be in conduit inside your cabinets....most people don't like opening their cabinets and seeing conduit running through.


06:55PM | 06/10/03
Member Since: 06/06/03
1250 lifetime posts
Hi Dana1028 and thanks for the reply. This is definitely what I need to know. Hmmmm, now I guess it's decision time....

Thanks again!


02:42PM | 06/11/03
Hi! Since my Hobart toaster runs on 15-amp (it actually draws 10 amps), it has a round, black, AWG 18 three-conductor cord, (the same size as a computer cord) about three feet long. Of course it has a 220V plug instead of a 110 plug. It is the same size as a regular plug, except that the blades are horizontal instead of vertical. It makes really great toasts, in a fraction of the time of a regular toaster, plus its controls are more accurate, and it does add a macho look to my countertop. Hope this answers your question.


04:18PM | 06/11/03
Member Since: 06/06/03
1250 lifetime posts
Hey there Wolley, thanks again for the response...the toaster sure sounds like a winner.

And yes, definitely MACHO! Our toaster is awful--a worthless, pathetic excuse for an appliance--with woefully inaccurate controls that either can't thaw frozen bread or reduce bread to a charred cinder. Hmmmm, thinking aloud, perhaps I should have 3-Phase brought in to do some seriously macho food processing

Thanks again!


10:13AM | 10/12/03
Member Since: 10/11/03
2 lifetime posts
I had the same question as you concerning 220V European appliances, but someone has warned me that those use single-phase 220V while the only way you can get 220 in our homes is as a 2-phase current.
Is this true?
Is there any way to overcome this problem, if in fact it is a problem?

[This message has been edited by Redbob (edited October 12, 2003).]

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