Pruning Tomato Plants

6 Mistakes Most First-Time Growers Make

The Correct Way to Prune a Tomato Plant

Suckers, which grow in the “V” between the main stem and the branches, need to be pruned to save energy for main branches

Simple Pruning

In Missouri pruning, a gardener pinches off or snips only the tip of the sucker, leaving a couple of leaves behind to help protect developing fruit from sunburn.

Missouri Pruning

Determinate tomato plants don’t need pruning, other than removal of suckers below the first flower cluster.

Mistake 1: Pruning determinate tomato plants

Pruning tomato plants when it’s raining or when they’re wet promotes the spread of disease—specifically, bacterial and fungal pathogens.

Mistake 2: Pruning when the plants are wet

A pruner, or garden clipper, is the best tool to use on tomato plants. Dull blades will crush the stem rather than cut it, damaging the stem tissue.

Mistake 3: Pruning with dull tools

If you put off pruning too long, those little suckers will grow into large, heavy branches that can weigh down the plant and prevent air from getting to the center of the plant.

Mistake 4: Waiting too long to prune tomato plants

Over pruning tomato plants removes too many shade-producing leaves, resulting in the fruit being exposed to the hot sun, causing sun scald.

Mistake 5: Over pruning

It should be done about 30 days before the first frost for best results.

Mistake 6: Not topping the main stem at the end of the season

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