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“Call me crazy, but I just had to bring this home,” says furniture refinisher Grace Holbrook. She picked up the 100-year-old dresser with the worn orange stain for just $40, and shared the steps for transforming the tired-looking gem into a blond charmer on her A Touch of Grace Instagram page.
Since most refinishing-a-dresser before-and-afters online involve paint or darker stains, Holbrook’s approach to lighten the wood is a standout that we wanted to share with other DIYers. And she doesn’t hold back on detailing the exact how-to steps and techniques that achieve the final look. She says: “I don’t want people to be afraid of trying something new or intimidating!”
Here’s a look at how she achieved this lightened look and her pro tips for removing both a dark finish and a difficult veneer along with the sticky stuff underneath it.
Use a Heat Tool to Remove Veneer
“I’m going to tell you my greatest tip and that’s using the heat tool when you’re removing veneer,” says Holbrook. “I used to swear by using a wet towel and an iron to do the work, but this just works so much better. It’s faster and less of a mess.”
She also noticed that after the water soaked and she placed an iron on the wood furniture, the surface was at risk of warping. “Instead, by using the heat tool I’m able to reheat the veneer adhesive right away and use a scraper to pry off. The heat tool can have a risk of burning the piece, but it’s not as high of a risk as water sitting for hours on a piece.”
Dip Furniture Feet Into Acetone to Remove the Finish
If you’ve ever tried to remove a finish from turned-bun feet on furniture, then you know how frustrating and painstaking it can be. Now after learning how Holbrook removes the finish, I’ll never try another method again. “Acetone is your new best friend,” says Holbrook. “I used high-concentrated acetone (not nail polish remover levels) to wipe away any sticky adhesive glue left behind the veneer removal and to strip the wood trim and wood legs.”
For the stubborn areas and detailed areas on furniture that aren’t dippable, apply the acetone solution and then reach for a wire brush to remove the finish and adhesive. This method also works to dissolve any stain and paint from wood furniture, so that it’s “a breeze to finish sand after,” Holbrook says. If you’ve ever stood with a sander for hours on end, you may appreciate that any technique that makes sanding easier is a tip worth tucking away for eternity.
Bleach Wood to Get a Lighter Finish
After the wood furniture is clear of the old finish and veneer residue, sanded, and cleaned of any dust, the surface is ready to be lightened.
Lighten Wood: Clothing Bleach
Ordinary chlorine-based laundry bleach can remove stains but it will likely not permanently affect the wood’s natural color. “You will notice the light appearance after using clothing bleach will return back to the original wood color when water or a protective top coat is applied,” says Holbrook. “Just keep in mind, chlorine products can compromise the strength of wood and may weather your wood. Due to this, I will apply only 1 or 2 rounds.”
Prep up the wood furniture and bleach solution.
- Place your project in a well-ventilated area.
- Prep the furniture by cleaning, sanding, and wiping it down with a microfiber cloth.
- Mix the bleach solution: 1 part bleach, 2 parts water.
Use the best applicator.
“Typically I like to use a foam roller on large surfaces to ensure even bleach coverage,” says Holbrook. “However, you can also spray on the mixture or wipe it on.” The key is to cover the wood completely with whichever mixture you choose.
Neutralize the wood between treatments.
“It is important to neutralize the wood between treatments,” says Holbrook. “Neglecting to neutralize may leave lingering bleach to chemically react with whatever stain or product you apply next.”
- Mix a solution of 1 part white vinegar and 1 part water.
- Soak a rag in the solution and while working quickly, wipe the entire bleached area down.
- Then do step 2 again with just water.
- Allow the entire project to dry out before applying a stain or a sealer.
Post-bleach steps to activate the solution.
“Once a full layer of bleach has been applied, let the piece dry out in the direct sun,” says Holbrook. “If applying a mixture when it is not sunny outside, use a heat tool to activate and dry out the piece.” It takes about 15 minutes of heat for the wood to whiten, and the lightening method can be repeated to achieve increasingly lighter wood.
“After you’ve bleached, neutralized, and dried the wood, the grain may be raised and coarse to the touch. Then, finish it with 220-grit sandpaper for a smooth finish,” she suggests.
More Methods to Lighten Wood
There are a few different bleaching methods that Holbrook shared with us, but all of them require the key steps of prepping the wood, working in a well-ventilated area, and activating the bleach solution with the sun or heat after the lightening is complete.
Lighten Wood: Oxalic Acid Powder
If your wood furniture is gray from weathering or has rust or water stains, oxalic acid removes them. “Many restorers consider oxalic acid highly toxic, since the crystal form it typically comes in can be inhaled and cause lung bleeding,” says Holbrook. So protect your skin and work in a well-ventilated area, or consider another method.
Lighten Wood: A/B Bleach
“Many recommend using the A/B bleach for safer practices and greater overall bleaching power,” says Holbrook. Two-part A/B peroxide-based bleaches have sodium hydroxide and hydrogen peroxide that create a chemical reaction that lightens wood.
Add Custom Wallpaper Liners
There’s something special about opening a dresser and finding a charming lining that’s custom-cut to fit the drawers. It’s these special touches that go a long way in creating a charming furniture makeover. While you can spend as much as you like, you can use wallpaper samples or inexpensive peel-and-stick versions to save money. Holbrook says: “I am cheap, not like cheap cheap bad, but I don’t like to spend a lot of money, so this liner is only like $7.”
