Randy Cooper

02:04PM | 12/30/99
Member Since: 12/29/99
1 lifetime posts
At the end of a Home Again show broadcasted
recently, they showed a floor that was made
of 2x4 butt end pieces. Are there instructions available for this floor, or at
the very least can we get what adhesive and
floor finisher (polyrethene?) is required.



06:26AM | 01/02/00
Member Since: 11/18/98
187 lifetime posts
The flooring that was put down was not simple 2x4's. It was a product manufactured by Birger Juell, Ltd. in Chicago. It is made from very old timbers that have been salvaged from deomolition sights. The wood is extremely dense and all of the edges are rounded to provide a tile like appearence. It is then colored and treated to protect it.

The product is then applied to the floor with a special mastic and grout that is only available from Birger Juell.

If you are committed to using this method I would think you might try some other type of wood other than the typical hemlock or fir that is used in construction. Then you have to take into consideration securing it to the surface and sealing it.

Let us know how you make out.



10:29PM | 02/20/16
That was the best NON ANSWER I have ever seen to date Steve. BRAVO!

not =P


12:04PM | 02/23/16
Wow. Definitely a Non-answer. Birger Juell doesn't have a website that I could find.

So...STEVE (or anyone willing to answer)...would you mind answering the question more specifically? What type of mastic; what type of sealant; what else might we need to know?


06:22AM | 02/24/16
Member Since: 07/22/04
661 lifetime posts
Use 3/8 or 1/2 inch thickness of wood. Any size or shape onto a
sub-floor. Not too large or warping will occur.First glue floor down,
You use the regular tile mastic as an adhesive.

Let set for two days... Then grout, let set for one day. Also add any
stain to grout, then do final coat of varnish, stain etc. Then
maintain like any wood floor. Oil it every 2 years using a wood floor
oil. Varnish once a year. Buff once a month.

The grout for the cobblewood flooring is composed of sawdust from the
wood mixed with a fast-drying oil-based sealer in a ratio of 2 parts
sawdust to 1 part sealer. Pour the grout on the floor push it into
the cracks using a rubber trowel or your hands. Trowel in the grout.
Squeegee off the excess. Steel wool the face to remove any remaining
excess grout that could dry to the top of the bricks. Let it sit over
night and then apply another coat of oil-based sealer the next day.
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