Leaking cinder block wall
Had issue with a wet basement wall and water across basement floor after rains occurred. We decided to place a $5K drain tile system in our basement. Once we placed the drain tile system, we have no water across the basement floor but the wall became saturated after it rained. Contractor came back and said water is now not draining down the pitch of the house and is collecting at window well. Water enters through the joints of cinder block runs down wall like a faucet. Contractor suggested trenching entire side of house to footing, wrapping wall (8' x 24' across)and place exterior drain tile system at $150 per linear foot. Any other cost conscious repair available??????
any inside method does NOT stop water from entering a house through cracks `n other below & above ground direct-openings, gotta go 'Outside' to accomplish this. And so since an inside method doesnt stop/prevent water entry it also will not stop/prevent mold,radon gas,efflorescence,insects and does not relieve hydrostatic & lateral pressure that is against the Outside of bsmt walls.
with block walls, many times cracks that are outside are Not-visble on the inside of basement, a wall can have a hairline- 1"+ vertical/step/horizontal crack on the outside & You 'wont' see it inside.But what matters is if/when there are cracks on the...Outside of block walls, thats how & where water enters.
i`m sorry you and others have paid out the amounts you have and...have not stopped water entry.an Inside drain tile system in 'most' cases WILL keep water off the bsmt floor,but water is still entering through Outside openings.
the contractor is either 1)inexperienced, no matter what he states 2)prefers an Inside method because it is much Less labor intensive & much Less Costly for Them! 3)wanted to bs You `n others with bogus claims to install the inside system then changes their tune a bit `n gives you other bogus reasons that you NOW need 'both' methods, double-the-kill$$....and other bs double talk.
see, when homeowners ONLY have water coming up through cracks in bsmt floor/floor drains and NOT had Any water coming from the wall or where the wall & floor meet(isolation joint)....what you Really Needed was to find...then fix whatever Outside openings that were, and still are, allowing water into your home.
$150 per foot?? lolol, if this is the 'SAME' contractor quoting this figure who bs`d you into the $5,000 inside method, my advise to you is to FIRST....ask him why his inside system, which i presume is guaranteed, isnt & didnt fix your problem. dont let them bs you & give you another crap story to dismiss why your still having a problem after they sold you what seemingly was their experinced advise that would solve the problem, know what i mean?
if they had diagnosed your problem correctly & Honestly from the start...you wouldnt be out $5g and still have a problem. Yah i know, your going to say again that"they must have fixed most of it--part of it"...`cuz you dont see water on the floor anymore. and i say again, whatever & wherever the Openings are they needed to be fixed from the Outside. Again, Any Inside D. tile method 'only' diverts water that enters from the outside...Under the bsmt floor,and these openings are 'still' not sealed/fixed.
are you seeing the water after a rain...FIRST, come in--be visble, up high on the wall? If this is so, then the opening(s)on the outside will most likely be from ground....up. meaning, if there is a basement window above where you see this water then it may need to be replaced/caulked etc. OR, there will be an opening(s) outside above ground where you see the water on your wall inside incl`g open moratr joints,loose porous bricks,where Any line `n wires enters the house like an a/c hose,also look for openings in & around other windows,screened-vented windows,around doors,light fixtures etc.
Unless your basement is 9-10' deep (most are 5 1/2--7 1/2'deep) then $150 is too much! Stand under a basement window in the basement....if the bottom of the basement window is ground level and your 5'6" tall, then thats how deep the footing/outside d tiles are and thats how deep it will need to be dug out, and needs to be dug out by...hand whenever possible, no equipment! if the bsmt is 5 1/2--6 1/2' deep then an honest linear ft quote should be $80-$90 per!
you only need to waterproof the area`s of the bsmt wall that leak. if you only leak in ` area of 1 wall, thats all you need to fix. if 1 wall pretty much leaks end to end then thats all that is necessary. dont let anyone bs ya into 2,3,4 walls. If there was a problem(leak) in any other area of any wall, you`d see water coming from that area/wall.
darn...i just noticed where you did in fact write there is a window well,lol, is THIS where--near you see water coming in? if so, like i mentioned already....there will be an opening(s) around that window and/or ledge. And is this the'Only' spot you see water or is there another area?
and IF this is the Only area, then why do you think the Contractor is suggesting to trench the entire side? lolol...see what i mean. call me if ya like, let me know
http://www.yodergroup.com/concrete.asp 6th & 7th paragraphs
Drain tile?? http://www.loganclaypipe.com/industry.htm
I disagree about digging only by hand. I just dug along the side of the house down to the foundation to replace the weeping tile drain to the road and to add in window well drains and some other stuff. This is simple work but a bit time consuming. A 35 ft wall is a days work to dig out. It is not rocket science. A mini excavator is 500 a day. A man is 500 a day. That is 1000 a day for a 35 ft wall. Materials are 100. Next day to back fill. No compaction as this will break the wall. Use this along the wall to water proof it.