04:30AM | 10/24/05
Member Since: 10/23/05
2 lifetime posts
I bought a new home from Rylamd and the basement is leaking in the front where the brick meets the foundation. The builder tried to fix it but when we did the hose test it still leaks. As per the builer the hose test is not the valid test and if we will put the hose anywhere near the brick it will leak,is it true? Is the hose test not valid to find out whether there is still a leak or not? Is there any other solution to stop the leak?


05:03AM | 10/24/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
sorry about yer problem, the hose--water test is VERY Valid! lolol If there was NOT an entryway/direct outside opening then when running the water you or anyone would not get water inside.

may i ask, you said it leaks where the.."brick meets the foundation" you mean you SEE water inside the basement where the BLOCK wall meets the floor?

or do you mean when the builder ran the hose/water, he ran it outside at ground-level...where the 1st course of bricks(ledge) sits on the top of basement wall? Let me know or you can call me if ya like.


07:13AM | 10/24/05
Member Since: 10/23/05
2 lifetime posts
Yes we see the water inside the basement. It comes from where the 1st course of bricks(ledge) sits on the top of basement wall. Its the front enterance. The builder tried taking out the bricks and putting some black thing that they put behind the bricks. But when we put the hose at the ground level near the bricks the water still comes in the basement. The builder says that the hose test is not valid and we have to wait for the rain to come as the hose is not same as the rain. As we cannot control the direction of the rain and there was less rain in IL we have not seen the new leak from the rain water but it certainly leaks with the hose. Any suggestions or solutions.


07:52AM | 10/24/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
hi dimp, ok let me get this straight. first, you have a cinder block bsmt wall, yes or no? Not brick but cinder-block-there is a difference.

From the inside of basement you see water up-high which then runs down the wall onto the floor, right?

You said this problem-area is by--at the front entrance, so what i need to know the front entrance a Porch or, maybe just a concrete step or 2? Or, is your front entrance level with the ground and there is no porch and no steps???

Sounds like this front entrance is at ground level SO if it is then when the builder or whoever runs the water...then there is a direct opening(s) into the house NEAR--at where he is running the water and needs to be correctly sealed on the outside with either cement/tar etc, depends what and where this opening(s) is. If you have a Brick on the outside of yer home, it sits on top on the basement wall, so he/you need to dig that area DOWN a lil bit with a digging shovel to view that area, probably dig it down about 6-12" and scrape and wire brush the 1st course of bricks and exposed top part of basement wall.

If the ground/soil is built UP Against the Bricks your probably going to find openings between in the moratr joints between the bricks and-or a craked/loose brick or 2. And again, you may also have openings along the brick ledge, where the first course of bricks sit on the bsmt wall and they all need to be sealed/fixed correctly. Know what i mean?

Thats how `n why water is entering when the hose is run at ground level, because there are going to be direct openings right at or just below where the water is being run.

The builder unfortunately simply doesnt know-understand, no biggie. They hopefully & probably are much better at putting the home together, expect for leaving outside openinhgs where water can enter.

Again, the hose test is Very valid,no need to wait for a rain,lol. The water test is showing you--him there is a problem-opening(s) Period! Find the openings, seal `em correctly, i cant be redundant enough.

Would you like to call me? lol, i`m here to help, dont charge a penny and it wld be easier `n faster than back `n forth on here, let me know,27 years experience in basement waterproofing to help you/anyone.


06:16PM | 11/10/05
Member Since: 11/09/05
1 lifetime posts
I am new home owner with similar problem.

My house is about 1 year old now. It has a poured concrete foundarion. I am leaking water at the top of the basement wall where it meets the wood frame baseboard for the 1st floor. This did not happen right away but after a dry summer and a lot of watering with the garden hose on the outside, now every time the garden hose sprays onto the brick exterior wall for about 1/2 hour, water seepage begins to show at top of basement wall. It is bad enough that will eventually create a narrow stream that runs down the wall to the basement floor.

When it rains, I don't have this problem but when sprinkler hose hits the wall I have the problem. The builder tried first to put more mortar in some area, then tried caulking the bottom of the black moisture barrier and the foundation wall on the outside. None of this has worked so far.

The question I have is could this be caused by a breakage of the black moisture barrier between the brick and the foundation wall, or could it be a poorly leveled top of foundation wall creating accessive gap between brick and foundation wall or is it not enough weep holes to keep up with the amount of water penetrating through the brick and mortar?

Please give me some advise because my builder is either dragging their foot to do the right thing $$$ or they are clueless what to do and needs some guidance. BTW another house same age and moel as mine also has same leaking problem in my neighborhood built by same builder.

Thanks in advance


09:21AM | 11/11/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


if you or anyone gets water in at/near top of poured wall inside, then it is because Outside, you either have gaps/openings along brick ledge-where 1st crs. of bricks sit atop wall...or its also possible there are openings in the mortar joints,between the bricks or loose/cracked/porous bricks where water can easily penetrate.

i`ll say this over & over, any bricks that are Not sealed which are below ground level...need to be! So often we see folks who raise the grade, which is fine..raise it 4' high, but you need to parge/tar/protect the bricks & mortar joints where you are raising the soil against. And sometimes there are 3,4,5 courses of bricks left unprotected below ground level.

Many windows can be penetrated as or old! I see this all the time, a homeowner will say "we just got new windows in, that Can`t be the problem"...Bllchtt! And windows with screens & bsmt windows w/vents can be a certain problem area for water to enter. Sometimes you gottalook 'real close' to find/see the lil hairline openings i`m talking about, when soaked by a sprinkler-wind blown rain,lots of water can enter.


02:35PM | 12/01/05
Member Since: 11/30/05
3 lifetime posts
I have a crack (very thin crack, the whole vertical length of my basement wall) in my basement wall that is seeping water when it rains heavily or for a long time. I have requested two estimates. One contractor suggests the use of an hot epoxy injection. The second contractor suggests the use of a nylon string inserted into the crack (the crack would be v-notched) and ran under the floor. The floor would be broken up and the string put under the floor and the floor would be poured with concrete. I am also getting a third contractor quote on Monday. I am not sure what the best method and most cost effective method would be to correct this problem. A guy from work suggests that I dig a hole on the exterior and patch the crack with tar and film. Both options are very expensive (approximately $1500 for each crack)

Can you tell me what would be the best method of correcting the crack?


07:11PM | 12/01/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts


questions jc, when water begins to come through this vertical crack, do you see any water 'up high' on the wall? Or do you see most of the water around middle of wall to floor? And i`ll assume ya have poured wall.

epoxy injections should be $400 to maybe as high as $675 and you say the bid you got was $1,500? Your wall would have to be about 20' DEEP to justify that amount in my book. People try all kinds of stuff/ways to try `n fix a crack jc, but imo its all best to fix from the outside whenever possible which is Most of the time except,like a crack under a porch its usually best to epoxy instead of busting out porch cap.

Having said that epoxy-urethane injections are quite susceptible to outside lateral & hydrostatic pressure & tree roots which can & often will re-open the crack & leak again. this company has admitted to this 3rd,4th paragrapghs "...yet we have had to watch as continued structural movement & further concrete shrinkage have re-opened cracks to leak. Injection alone cannot provide a lasting solution as cracks get larger & soil expansion and contraction cause the foundation to shift and settle."

Get estimates to fix that crack on the Outside 5'linear by 6' or whatever your depth is to footing....ask them how much to hand-dig to footing, haul all clay/soil away,wire brush & scrape excess dirt off wall,apply hydraulic cement over crack AND Any other openings from brick ledge to footing, apply thick tar over wall, apply 6 mil visqueen over tar,backfill with 100% peastone-gravel to within few inches of grade, top soil rest. Should take 3-5 hours and should cost from $825-1,050/1,100 maybe...depends on a few other factors.

There are time when a lil thin hairline crack does NOT go through the wall,thus it isnt why water is entering and why i asked if you see water Up High on the wall. IF that crack is very very thin and doesnt go through wall then the opening(s)which could be allowing water to enter will be directly on the outside of where ya see water inside, like small openings in mortar joints,around basement windows, basement window vents `n screeens `n caulking needs around doors or any other direct opening into the home, know what i mean?


07:18AM | 12/04/05
Member Since: 11/30/05
3 lifetime posts
I do have poured walls.

The leak sometimes starts leaking up (2 feet down) high on the wall, then seeps a little at a few other points along the lower part on the wall. But it does not leak along the whole crack. And it is not leaking at the floor.

I think I understand where you are going. Are you stating that there maybe a short crack outside where the water is coming in and traveling along the inside crack and coming out at different points along the inside crack?

Do you know of any reputable contractors in the Indianapolis area that do that kind of work (Fix the leak from the exterior)? So far I have received estimates from A-1 Indiana Waterproofing, and AllDry. I am also getting an estimate from Acculevel. A-1 waterproofing did say that the leak could be done from the outside, but a hole would have to be dug from the exterior wall six feet out and down to the foundation to complete the job successfully. Do I really have to make a hole that big in my side yard?


08:22AM | 12/04/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

ok, ya have a vertical hairline vertical crack and see water/dampness up high on the need to seal that crack on the outside, hand dig to footing etc. thats the only way to stop water from getting in-through the crack, do the entire crack! Ya dont want to seal/waterproof part of it and then year etc down the road the lower part of crack opens/widens a tad more and leaks, do the entire crack, NOT entire wall,ok.

And you might have another way water is getting onto the top of the wall...feeding into the crack and showing up inside the basement up high on the wall, that would be Any open mortar joints, openings around any windows,vents-screened windows,where any service line enters house etc. Find them ALL, seal em and Waterproofed the crack. The cost of waterproofing the crack is $825-1,050....20 yr transferable guarantee. If the depth of footing/drain tiles is 6' deep we wld hand dig the trench 18"-24" wide all the way down and 5'-6' linear.

If you run a hose at ground level on the outside of crack for up to 45 minutes and it leaks then yes, that crack is open on both sides and needs to be fixed correctly. BUT, if you run water and DONT leak, then your ONLY opening(s) that is allowing water in will be Above ground. You wont need ANY waterproofing, so if i was you, i`d Make Certain before hiring anyone....think about what i`m saying. if you do the water test and DO see water enter, if ya want we`ll come down and fix it. Now i`d have to add quite a bit for gas,oil,1 night motel room so it would be about $1,275...again, if i were You i`d make sure where ALL entryways were BEFORE hiring anyone, if it leaks it needs to be done correctly from the Outside, not half azz`d.
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