01:01PM | 08/21/06
Member Since: 08/08/06
15 lifetime posts
I KNEW IT! You don't want to answer the one and only direct question I have for you.

That's because the answer is NO isn't it?

You can not and will not say that all the drains in the world - with exterior coatings - with under the floor drains will waterproof 100% of ANY foundation.

How misleading is that?


12:37PM | 10/02/06
Member Since: 10/01/06
1 lifetime posts
I have a question I am very confused on, does actually manufacturer their products or do they buy from a dealer? I am confused on if the product is named sanitred or or not.



08:55AM | 10/05/06
Member Since: 10/04/06
1 lifetime posts
I have used the sani-tred product with success. I have a 4ft high poured concrete basement that was taking in water during heavy rains when the soil was already saturated at the footing. I used a diamond grinder to prep the walls, and applied the permaflex, then the rubber middle, and another permaflex. This was 2 years ago, and I haven't had anymore more water in my basement.

I can't claim it works for everything and every instance. However it worked very well for me.

I do have a question for Sanitred. I am getting ready to finish my basement, and am looking for a simple floor. I am looking at prepping the floor for adhesion and then putting on 2 coats of permaflex. My question is however, can I paint over the sanitred coating? Will other paints adhere to it. I don't want the gray or tan color.




04:23PM | 10/31/06
Member Since: 10/30/06
3 lifetime posts
BasementWaterproofer, I have been reading through this thread with interest and was hoping for some advice, and from the Sani rep guy as well.

Particularly, you wrote:

"most basements do NOT have a dang problem with water/moisture coming up through/wetting floor. i have a moisture-vapor-drive for you lolol things are that bad for you huh, to bring up a condition that most don`t have a problem milk?

Not all, Most!

for those who do, some of those problems are due to-- a thin basement floor, yeah, a 2" or so thickness and, some of those have cracks in the floor.

and then, some who get dampness/water coming up through the floor have a....blockage Under the floor which can often, not always, be freed by snaking through storm trap. would YOU like to call many homeowners who`ve had this and were almost talked into an inside drain tile system when they ONLY needed an honest/exp plumber to snake...huh?"

I just moved into a resale home where the owner painted over the floors before I saw the place and had previously done work to dig out and waterproof one external wall. Inspector noted leakage and repairs.

Now, a few months after move in, there are areas of leakage in the floors (one area the floor gets kind of pasty, while in others, a foot or two from the exterior wall, there is dampness under the paint/in places where the paint has flaked off.

There is no leakage that I have seen on any of the walls or any joints.

As you noted, most people don't seem to have this problem, and all my Internet searching has confirmed this is something of a rarity.

The house is older - was built in the 30s, and so has no drainage system that I know of at all - no gravel under the home, no sump, no weeping tiles. No idea what the backfil is, but would assume it's just dirt.

I did have someone come and give me a recommendation and estimate (from basementsystems or Clarke Basement, I think), and he suggested an internal drainage system and a wall barrier which would move the water that gets through the walls down to the internal drainage system, all of which going to a sump in one corner of the basement. Quote was $13,000.

This sani thing is superficially appealing for me given the problem and recommendation (which would still, I would think, create moisture and mould risk), but considering I don't really know anything about any of this, I am apprehensive, of course.

What you say about hydrostatic pressure and wall buckling and the like makes a lot of sense, but would the risks get worse if you prevent the water from getting through by sealing it? Seems like whether you stop it on the exterior of concrete or the interior of it would make no difference if the pressure is not relieved by taking the water/backfill pressure away, but as I said, house has been standing for 70 years with no foundation problems and so I don't think that's an issue.

Fundamnetal question, and I understand your hostility to the salesman, but I am really curious as to whether an internal impermiable membrane that bonds to internal concrete surfaces can allow me to waterproof the house and finish the basement. If the water can't get through the floor, what happens to the water? What happens to the concrete that is under the product? Will the concrete erode? If it does, how long until it breaks down? Could this have an impact on the structural soundness of the home that doing nothing at all would not?

And short of either this internal drain system or digging up all the concrete and laying down a drainage system and gravel, is there anything else that can do the job of preventing water from coming through the floor.

Thanks very much for your time.


04:35PM | 10/31/06
Member Since: 10/30/06
3 lifetime posts
I would also like to know from the sani sales guy if you have contractors who can apply this product properly for me in Toronto.

Not the kind of thing I am capable fo doing properly on my own.



05:36AM | 11/01/06
Member Since: 08/08/06
15 lifetime posts

We do not have an applicator in Toronto, though most any do-it-yourselfer, painter, local handy man or contractor is more than capable of applying Sani-Tred materials. We recently received a reference letter from a 60 year old woman who waterproofed her basement all by herself. She did hire a so-called professional to waterproof her basement initially, but was mislead and left abandoned. She did win her lawsuit against them and is now another one of our success stories.


Dear Sani-Tred,

I am writing to tell you that I LOVE your products and your customer service. As a 60 year old woman, doing the work myself was physically challenging but the beauty is that it even I could do it. The products went on easily and the finished product looks beautiful. I learned that it is very important to follow instructions closely in order to get perfect waterproofing, but we now have a perfectly dry basement. Your customer service people were courteous and helpful--Sani-Tred went far beyond the ordinary to be helpful. I also want to express my gratitude for a non-toxic product that doesn't hurt either me or the environment. Please use my name as a local reference as I know that you are a rare company with a rare product! Thank you again,

What you are witnessing is common and just some traces of ground water. These suggestions of hacking up your floor are also common and will not guarantee anything when it’s all said and done.

This house has not had its walls buckle in, tree roots have not pushed in your walls, bugs evidently are not infesting your basement and the above conditions are not common as propaganda junkies whish you to believe. Concrete will not dissolve in the presence of water/moisture. What causes concrete to deteriorate is not the water/moisture itself, but allowing concrete to leak and weep water/moisture over a long period of time. this will leach out beneficial minerals from the concrete.

Anyone trying to dismiss the fact that water/moisture enters through concrete due to moisture vapor drive and negative hydrostatic pressure and calling it ‘a rare occurrence’ is truly uninformed or intentionally misleading.

I can tell you that the products come with detailed instruction RE: preparation, mixing and application. We always have people standing by to answer your questions. We don’t just ask you to take our word for it that the products perform; we also have Sample Packs to try for yourself and are 100% satisfaction guaranteed. Try, apply and abuse the products. You will become familiar with the materials themselves and how they are applied.


09:29AM | 11/01/06
Member Since: 10/30/06
3 lifetime posts

on the issue of application, the basement has been semi finished, and so I would have to take all the paint (and the waterproofing that was applied in the 40s) off the walls and floors as well as removing some plywood walls, plywood cupboards, and the like. There is also wood on the ground under the stairs, which will likely have to be removed too, which is definitely not a job for me considering the wood holds up the stairs. Then there is the sauna which would need to have all the wood removed and then replaced.

I am not the kind who can assemble thigns out of a box properly, nor am I particularly comfortable using a blowtorch to dry things out.

Problem I see with hiring a local handiman would be if he is not familiar with the product he will not warrant its proper application.

If, as you say, it will only fail if it is not applied properly, I end up in a situation where I am left exposed - no warranties from you, as you do not license your contractors and so could easly blame mis-application (which could of course be the actual cause) while the contractor, unfamiliar with the product, would (1) have no real idea whether the product will work and (2) lack the expertise to be comfortable guaranteeing his work, and the end result is that no one would be responsible if the product doesn't work for whatever reason.

Why do you not have more localized distribution and contractors who are licensed to apply the product professionally? Would seem like if the product works as well as is claimed, contractors would see the value in a licensing arrangment to be a certified installer. It is an extremely competitive market, after all.

Meanwhile, you would benefit from wider exposure and an ability to tap into the not-do-it-yourself market, which I suspect is far bigger than the do it yourself one.

Do you see any prospects of a proper distribution/application system being set up? Again, the reputational effects from having established reputable contractors endorse your product coupled with the increased exposure as an alternative to those who are looking to hire would surely have a positive effect on your business if the product works as well as claimed (seems nothing short of a miracle product considering what contractrors seem to currently say is required, and that is what allows companies to grow by factors of a hundred or more in 3 to 5 years)

On a completely different tact, would it make sense to put in a sump in a corner of the floor (remembering there is no gravel under the home but would put gravel around the sump) hooked up to the drain and then apply the SaniTred? from what I can see it is the internal perimiter drain system which is the most expensive component of the traditional system, and as I noted I don't have water coming in through the walls (well, I might, just none I can see or see traces of). Would this both help relieve the pressure and prevent any water coming in in any event? Or does the SaniTred make the sump completely redundant?


10:05AM | 11/01/06
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
After all this talk about the product, I decided to call SaniTred today. I conversed at length with Gabby, she was very informed on their products and was quite pleasant. I will be ordering a sample kit from them to test a small area on a basement wall. I am honestly looking forward to testing their product. If favorable, I will test it on a personal project or maybe one of my clients in the Boston area. There are a lot cement walled garages in this area. This type of application would be perfect for testing SaniTred. The real test is going to be in the Spring when we have a lot of flooding. I'll post my findings when I believe a fair assessment is reached.


11:30AM | 05/29/07
Member Since: 05/28/07
1 lifetime posts
I was at a point where I was considering having Sanitred installed for a crack in my garage wall that is allow water to seep in during heavy rains. This is the only option that was reasonable for me since I can't justify spending thousands of dollars for the inconvenience of having to put a towel down to absorb the water. The repair job would $1100 (same price for urethane injection method) and would be done by a licensed Sanitred installer.

Three weeks later, I found mold on my garage wall. I scrubbed it off this weekend and am now considering expanding the Sanitred coverage area from just the crack to the entire wall that is below grade (my propery slopes from back to front). So my wall would be covered with Sanitred on a diagnal.

Then I got concerned about the walls cracking and buckling due to freezing in the winter and starting looking for negative results from using Sanitred when I came across this thread.

What are my other options? Its not that I don't want to spend money to have drains installed or have my exterior excavated its just that I simply can't afford it. One waterproofing company wanted 58K to excavate and waterproof from the outside. No way.

What about repairing the crack from the outside? Only half of the crack is below grade. It would be about a 4 foot dig. What kind of products can be applied to a crack from the outside?

I have since purchased a dehumidifier to eliminate the humidity which was causing the mold. I also moved my wooden closet away from the wall so there is no organic material that the mold can feed off.

What would you do? I'm desperate here.
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