Latest Discussions : Electrical & Lighting

DanO

08:38AM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
This this 'not hot hotpoint' a range, an oven, a cooktop, a dryer, a toater, a toaster oven???

Posting its model might also be helpful.

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Hotpoint

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

milkmade

09:15AM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
Dan O.

NOT Hotpoint........jeez. It is a Roper EL4030VWO Dryer(electric)......just trying to find out how hot the housing around the heating element should be........I used a 27969 fuse kit(replace both).

Sorry....it's Monday!

appliguy

01:02PM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi,

**#279796**

Comes up as a bulk head.

**27969**

Comes up as nothing.

Probably thermal cut-out (fuse) and high limit thermostat - part number 279769.

**Roper EL4030VWO**

Model# is likely EL4030VW0 ( zero instead of an Oh )

**just trying to find out how hot the housing around the heating element should be**

The new safety thermostat is 250ºF and the new thermal fuse is 360ºF. -Normally- speaking the heating element cage can get up to just under the 250ºF mark before being considered a possible problem.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

milkmade

01:29PM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
ok

RoperEL4030VW0

FUSE KIT 279769

I made sure lint was cleaned from behind screen

ann in vent pipe.

Dryer worked for 2 loads and now is NOT HEATING.

Now what should I do?????

milkmade

01:34PM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
Hey Jeff,

Right you are!

Probably thermal cut-out (fuse) and high limit thermostat - part number 279769.

**Roper EL4030VWO**

Model# is likely EL4030VW0 ( zero instead of an Oh )

Darn thing worked for 3 loads of clothes and quit again......

After installing fuse and thermostat, I cleaned lint(not much) from behind lint screen. Vent pipe was clean too.

Now what should I do???


DanO

04:41PM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** Vent pipe was clean too. **

All the way to the outdoors???

And the outside vent flapper is functioning properly (ie. opening when the dryer is turned on)?

** Now what should I do? **

If the thermal fuse opened, check the venting. Then check the venting again!!

You can read about dryer venting at the following link:

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/links/jump.cgi?ID=778

JMO

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Roper+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

appliguy

04:43PM | 03/07/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi all,

Double check the venting AND vent hood going outside.

Also make sure the element is not shorted to ground...

http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

milkmade

03:58AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
OK.......

Hey Guys,

Thermal fuse is blown again!!! Guess I need another one of these.

Vent pipe is 2 feet in length and clean as a whistle.

Vent hood is clean as a whistle. Actually there is no flapper on venthood.

Lint screen area and area from blower to where vent pipe attaches is clean.

Element is not shorted to the ground(i.e. no continuity when checked per http://www.applianceaid.com/grounded.html

instructions.

What else can be going on here?

I must be missing something.

Laundry is backing up like you wouldn't believe.

help,

milkmade

milkmade

04:32AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
ok .....so what about the operating thermal fuse .........3392519.......

it shows no continuity..............could it be contributing to the problem of the blown thermal fuse???


appliguy

09:03AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
Hi,

The first one you changed should for the heat, the (3392519) is suppose to make the whole dryer go dead if it opens up....still means something is getting/allowing the dryer to get -w a y- too hot!

Operating thermostat maybe?

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

milkmade

09:10AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
operating t-stat? where is it.....co i check it the same way for conductivity?

DanO

09:52AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 11/11/02
2267 lifetime posts
** so what about the operating thermal fuse # 3392519? could it be contributing to the problem of the blown thermal fuse??? **

No fuse will cause a problem in another fuse.

** it shows no continuity **

Than it is defective and needs to be replaced.

** What else can be going on here? **

Poor air flow through the dryer will cause the thermal fuses to open. If air movement is definitely not hampered by a bad vent, checking the drum seals and other parts of the dryer's internal duct system may be necessary. Some dryer models can also have problems with the door not closing properly and hampering proper air circulation through the dryer.

** operating t-stat? where is it. [so] i check it the same way for conductivity? **

While that should tell you if it is open or not, it will not tell you if it is operating properly. You can read about how dryer thermostats function at the following link:

LINK > http://www.appliance411.com/parts/showcase.dryer-thermo.shtml

Usually the exhaust air temperature is measured during use to determine if the thermostat is cycling the temperature properly or not.

BTW. You are operating the dryer *fully reassembled*? The heater will overheat without the proper air flow of an assembled dryer.

JFYI

Dan O.

www.Appliance411.com/?ref411=Roper+Dryer

The Appliance Information Site

=D~~~~~~

appliguy

11:18AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
**it shows no continuity..............could it be contributing to the problem of the blown thermal fuse???**

Contribute to, nope....be a result of, yes.

The 3392519 IS the thermal fuse.

The 279769 is a Thermal cut-out (fuse) L360 and high-limit thermostat for the heat only...the 3392519 will open to protect the entire dryer and not just the heat. Something somewhere is allowing the dryer to get way too hot to open up both of these...the trick is figuring out what....element, operating thermostat, wire/wiring, gremlins, etc.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

appliguy

11:21AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
**operating t-stat? where is it**

On the fan blower housing.

The operating thermostat is suppose to cycle off and on the heat as per the temp rating of that thermostat....most operating around around the 130ºF-155ºF temps.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/

milkmade

11:29AM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
about now I would say it is GREMLINS

milkmade

milkmade

09:44PM | 03/08/05
Member Since: 03/02/05
11 lifetime posts
operating t stat shows conductivity..........

something else was is wrong

when i replaced thermal cut off kit, and before thermal fuse blew i thought it was getting to hot(exhaust temp)

air flow is good......

to recap, i have cleaned lint area, stuck my hand in and around blower, have

checked vent pipe and hood

have checked element to se if shoted against housing or if it is damaged

operating thermal fuse is blown(no conductivity)

could there be a short...if there is then will i ever find it?

i need to get this thing fixed

what can i be missing......?

milkmade


appliguy

02:39AM | 03/09/05
Member Since: 07/23/04
491 lifetime posts
**operating t stat shows conductivity**

Still doesn't mean it is opening up at the correct temperature.

**could there be a short**

Haven't seen a house fuse blown yet, thermal fuses are heat sensitive.

Any temp readings taken yet of the exhaust temps? Need to "be right there" when the dryer is running ( probably panal off, dryer pulled out ) to be ready to test/check once the exhaust temps gets too hot at the exit to see why.....element staying on after it gets hot, thermostat not cycling the heat off, ect.

jeff.

Appliance Repair Aid

http://www.applianceaid.com/


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