09:27PM | 07/17/07
Member Since: 07/17/07
1 lifetime posts
iv'e noticed a lot of ppl are trying to get answers on how to build a basketball court and although i didnt find it here i did get most of my questions answered at this site

just in case that site doesnt work i have copy and pasted the informatuon here for you to read.... Good Luck

Q: I'm preparing to pour a 30' x 30' patio for a basketball court for the kids. I'm planning on putting 2" of gravel on my compacted clay soil and then 2" of sand before I put my forms in place. I'm planning to use 2"x4" forms around the outside. Since a 2x4 is really only 3.5 inches wide will this be thick enough for my patio? How should I pour my patio? I was planning on doing it in one day. Do I need to use stop boards about every 10' of length and smooth the concrete and then remove the stop boards and continue with the next 10' section? What do you suggest?

A: I would recommend using 3 or 4 inches of gravel under your slab, and forget about the sand. I can see no benefit from using the sand, and it will make your preparation a little easier.

Using a 2 x 4 form should be fine - I would recommend thickening the edge of the slab by raking the gravel away from the inside edge of the form to allow the concrete to be about 6 inches deep all the way around the perimeter of the slab. The width of thickend edge only needs to be about six inches, or perhaps one shovel width wide. (This may mean it would be easier to use a 2 x 6 for the edge form so that the concrete will not try to run out underneath the form)

Be sure when you are grading the gravel that you maintain 3 1/2 to 4 inches of depth all the way across the slab - in other words, don't let the gravel get too high in the middle of the slab.

You should be able to pour the patio in one day, if you have plenty of help and some experience in placing concrete.At four inches deep, you need about 11.25 cubic yards of concrete (I would recommend at least a 4000 psi mix, with 6% air entrainment since this is an exterior slab). Since this will probably require two truckloads of material, you might consider only pouring 1/2 of the slab, especially if you are not experienced in handling concrete. Better to do this than to get a poor job because you took on too much concrete at once.

Your 30 x 30 slab should be jointed into 10 x 10 squares to control cracking. I would recommend using a metal stay-in-place joint that will also serve as a screed to help you strike off the concrete and keep the slab level. (One brand name is Form-a-Key) This material comes in 10' lengths, so you would need 120 lineal feet of material to divide your slab into 10 x 10 squares.

Check with ready mix supplier regarding where to purchase this material, and for tips on how to install it. If you have never finished concrete before, I would recommend visiting with your ready mix supplier to get some basic instructions, or to get the names of some local concrete finishers.

Keep in mind that you will not be able to wheelbarrow your concrete across the slab once you install this material, so make sure that the concrete truck can reach the entire slab with the chutes. If this is not possible, consider installing the metal joint material in only one direction (this would form 3, 10 x 30 lanes in your slab) so you can use a wheelbarrow to transport the concrete from one end of the slab to the other. If you use this method, you can install the rest of the metal joints as you pour the slab, or you can rent a concrete saw and sawcut the joints after the concrete hardens.
Click to reply button
Inspiration banner


Post a reply as Anonymous

Photo must be in JPG, GIF or PNG format and less than 5MB.

Reply choose button


Post new button or Login button

To test the boundaries of small-footprint living, interior designer Jessica Helgerson moved her family to a 540-square-foo... Filling an underutilized area beneath the stairs is a smart way to save space. Doing so with a stash of wood, however, is ... The Audubon Society inspired wallpaper in this Adirondack-styled mudroom will get you in the outdoor mood. Grab your coat ... Chalkboard paint opens up endless possibilities for customizing your dresser time and time again. Use chalk to label the c... A fireplace in the bathroom creates the ultimate setting for relaxation. Homeowners often choose electric or gas over wood... This roomy boot tray made from punched metal stands up to all the elements. Station it in your mudroom or at your back doo... There’s nothing like a new set of cabinet hardware to refresh a room. The possibilities are endless: Go modern, rustic, or... FLOR tiles are an affordable way to customize a carpeted floor covering for any space. Make anything from runners to wall-... Chalkboard paint features prominently in this elegant yet unpretentious headboard design. Add a new message daily to reflec... Salvaged boards in varying widths and colors make up the dramatic accent wall in this attic space. The high-gloss white of... The indecisive homeowner need not fret over choosing one (or even two) cabinet colors. The kitchen cabinets in this artist... Incorporate nature into your lighting scheme by securing a dead tree in a concrete mold and draping your pendant lamp from... Simple and striking, a couple of pieces of "lovingly used" furniture creates a special kind of charm. A weathered chair fo... First dress up your metal shelves with a coat of paint in an accent color that complements your kitchen decor. Then arrang... Dark wood shelving and a matching upholstered bench keep this closet sleek and refined. The large window brightens the sub...
Follow banner a
Newsletter icon Flipboard glossy Facebook Twitter Pinterest Youtube Rss icon