12:39PM | 01/30/04
Member Since: 01/29/04
3 lifetime posts

I am getting ready to build a wine cellar in the garage. I am going to use 2x6 framing. It will be locate in the back corner of the garage, so only 2 walls need to be framed. The inside dimensions are 6'x16'. Only problem is, the floor is concrete. I have framed on subfloor before, but have no idea how to set bottom plates onto concrete. I want the structure to be sound, as the walls will be supporting a fair bit of weight.

Can anyone help with how to frame bottom plates to concrete? Any options other than adhesive?

Thanks for your help.



02:23AM | 02/06/04
Member Since: 12/01/02
93 lifetime posts
I'm not a professional framer but I know one way of doing this is using a powder actuated nailer to secure the bottom plates to the concrete. It probably wouldn't hurt to use construction adhesive as well.


08:25AM | 02/07/04
Member Since: 11/06/02
1280 lifetime posts
Any framing lumber in contact with concrete absolutely needs to be pressure treated or be isolated from contact.

I use a PT bottom plate and construction adhesive. PL Premium is best. Then fit the wall tightly above it to the ceiling framing. if you feel the need for mechanical anchors, you can use the powderactuated or just get some of theri case hardened nails to hand rive. For only six or seven, It won't be that harad.

But you should also consider th epossibility of framing a floor over the concrete slab for the insulating properties, given the intended use.


07:19AM | 02/09/04
Member Since: 01/29/04
3 lifetime posts
Thanks for your help. As far as hand-driving hardened nails, does it matter that the concrete is more than 25 years old (potentially too hard)? Also, what should I use to frame the subfloor under the plywood, and is this needed if I am going to be tiling over the concrete with ceramic?

Thanks again for your help.



11:14AM | 02/09/04
Member Since: 02/08/04
16 lifetime posts
Hi, I can't answer the questions about subflooring and tile, but I just framed a wall on concrete for a carport/garage conversion.

I used pressure treated wood and Tapcon conrete screws. I pre-drilled the holes with a masonry bit. I got the materials at a home improvement store. The drill bit that came with the screws wore out fairly quickly, but a new bit was only about $5.00.

I spaced the screws about a foot apart and found that I had done much more than I needed to for code requirements. I would have only needed to have one every three feet.

The conrete I was drilling into was laid in 1968 and I didn't have any problem with it splitting. But I wasn't using nails.



05:25PM | 02/09/04
Member Since: 02/08/04
4 lifetime posts

Why the 2x6? 2x4 or 2x3 should be fine, is basically a closet your making

the shelves will hold the wine correct? Not the wall

with the 2x6 walls you are going to have a problem with mounting the door, you'll have to custom order a door for that jamb thickness

as the fasteners, tapcons or power nails, attempting to hammer in nails into hardened concrete garage floor will have you swearing at the heavens!



07:18AM | 02/11/04
Member Since: 01/29/04
3 lifetime posts
The idea behind the 2x6 framing was to provide extra room for insulation. The temperature in the cellar I'm building is supposed to be a constant 55 degrees...I thought the extra insulation would allow the cooling unit to function more effectively. The garage itself usually runs between 45 and 70 degrees naturally. Is there a preferred way to insulate the walls of a wine cellar that would allow for 2x4 framing, and still allow the cooling system to run with minimal effort (I'd love it if it wasn't running constantly)???

Thanks in advance for your help.


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