Latest Discussions : Plumbing


04:10AM | 07/04/03
Member Since: 07/03/03
1 lifetime posts
My 17-year old sewage pump sounded its in-the-basement alarm last night indicating a full pump chamber between my septic tank and my raised drainage field. I disconnected the alarm but not the pump and didn't do anything else overnight.
The next morning I checked the electrical circuits for 1. the alarm and 2. the pump, re-energized the alarm, and the alarm did not come back on. It appears everything is working as it should.
Anyone offer an explanation?
ALSO I've done some research on replacement pumps if and when I need one. My local plumbing supply store offers a 1/2 HP Gould pump for $400. A certain huge hardware store offers a 4/10 HP Wayne pump for $150. The existing pump is 1/3 HP. Does anyone know anything about Gould vs. Wayne?

erik peterson

08:43AM | 07/04/03
Member Since: 06/23/03
223 lifetime posts
Make sure if purchasing a new pump to get a "sewage-pump" these have a masticator that liquifies waste...if you try use a reg. "sump-pump" it will not work correctly. Also I've always used "Zoeller" pumps and have never been disappointed. Suggest replacing "check-valve" as well. erik


11:18AM | 07/04/03
Member Since: 06/04/03
18 lifetime posts
I was about to change my sewage pump last week. It was running non-stop and not managing to empty the pit. I found that when I disconnected the power and then reconnected it, it would work! Turned out to be the CHECK VALVE not the pump. The flap was no longer tied down so that when the pump kicked on the flap would rise to the top of the check valve. If it landed just right (or should I say wrong) it would seal the exit and the pump could not get the water out. SAVE yourself some money and just change the check valve first (less than $20). Then test by flushing the nearest toilet that uses the sump enough times to turn on the pump several times. Pump should empty the pit very fast 2-5 seconds. Also be sure to reconnect the alarm!!! Just in case I'm wrong. I'm no plumber.

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