02:50AM | 01/15/04
Member Since: 01/14/04
1 lifetime posts
Hi, I have a new house, 2 years old. I have about 25' of baseboard in my 1st zone, 1st floor which consists of living room, kitchen, bathroom, and dining room. The sq footage of the 1st floor is about 900 sq ft. I was told I need about 40', so I wish to add a radiator to the zone. I know all about adding the radiator, piping it, soldering it as I worked for a plumber for 2 years. I will not be adding a T to the zone, but adding in the new radiator to the last existing radiator and tieing it back to the boiler. That work is not a problem. I'm wondering what I have to do to purge the water/air from the system and how to refill the system. I have forced hot water powered by gas via a new burnham boiler. I'm not sure what type of burnham boiler it is, but I can tell you that the radiators (suntemp) do not have air purges on them. I just assume that you.
A. Shut down the power to the boiler.
B. Shut off the water to the boiler.
C. Drain the water from the zone.
D. Add in the new radiator
E. Turn the water back on to the zone.

However, I've also been told that I have to purge the air. I'm wondering if I have listed the proper sequence to do this, or if I have it all wrong. Any help is appreciated. It's not that I'm too cheap to have a plumber do it, I just like doing this stuff. However if special tools are required or any special boiler expertise, that's where I stop.
Thanks, Joe
kfarrel[email protected]

plumber Tom

04:53AM | 01/15/04
Member Since: 05/10/03
801 lifetime posts
Hi Joe and welcome to the boards. Each individual convector (radiator) should have it's own bleeder valve. It's normally a 1/8" bleeder that you open manually with a key to purge the air when water is added to the system. You can install bleeder 90's opposite the valve side when you install the new radiator. When you go buy your pipe and fittings, make sure you ask for a bleeder 90. (It's actually a tee, but i'm calling it a bleeder 90) If your using 3/4" copper pipe the size would be 3/4" x 1/8" F x 3/4". Also buy a 1/8" bleeder valve that you simply dope up and install into the 90. If your boiler doesn't have an automatic water feed valve. I highly recommend you install one. They come factory set at around 12 to 15 psi. Install a shut-off valve before and after the automatic feed should it ever clog up. Watts (brand) makes repair kits for these valves. This valve allows a predetermined pressure into the system and will make bleeding the air alot easier. Once you have everything soldered, turn on the valve (lever up in the fast fill position) and go to each individual radiator and bleed all the air out until you get water. Good luck and let us know how you make out, Tom
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