10:37AM | 01/19/09
Member Since: 01/18/09
1 lifetime posts
I found Sentinel Products online and they manufacture a line of mastic removers, including a soy based product. When the mastic has been liquefied you can absorb up the liquid with kitty litter or sawdust and throw it away. You then use a tsp cleaner to wash away any remaining residue. Give your floor a day or two to dry out and it will be ready for sealing or new flooring installation.


11:54AM | 08/12/10
Member Since: 08/11/10
1 lifetime posts
OK. I just removed 1000 square feet on asbestos tile and mastic from the bottom 2 floors on the house we just bought in may. I used the Bean-e-doo product but now I have 3 five gallon buckets full of what looks like kitty litter soaked in used motor oil. The tiles were able to be disposed of at the local dump but the buckets I'm not 100% sure what to do with. They are sealed and taped.

The project though was back breaking, time consuming and HOT. The tyvek suits, gloves, rubber boots and respirator were required and the entire area walls and ceiling were covered in 6 mil plastic. The ground was sprayed down with a hose and a little detergent to keep the dust from tile removal to a minimum.

After the tile was out I bagged the in 9mil bags and took them on a truck to the dump while the ground dried. Then I came back and applied the bean-e-doo.

Some notes on that product. Let it sit at least 1 hour. Get a proper floor squeege to help you bring the pool to the center of the room and absorb it with kitty litter or an industtrial absorbant. Make sure not to lay the bean-e-doo down to thick otherwise that area will remain stuck to the floor when you squeege. Also try to let the floor dry before using. Some spots might require a 2nd coat to properly loosen.

After everything was up I mopped and mopped and mopped with a degreeser solution. Usually went through about 2-3 mopheads per area. They wet mop after that with just plain water.

That product didn't havenoticable fume and is supposed to be ok to use in populated building but I didn't take chances and at that stage made sure to get some fresh air into the room.

Hope this was helpful.


10:57AM | 11/21/10
Member Since: 11/20/10
2 lifetime posts
I want to have the concrete surface ready to accept the mortar for ceramic tiles.

Do I need to do anything else, or am I good to go after the Bean-e-doo?


08:25AM | 07/15/13
bean e doo was a nightmare for me. Pay someone to skim coat it. The bean e doo re activates the mastic, so if you dont get every little bit of it youll regret it because it will stay tacky. I wish someone would have told me about skim coating in the begining. I can't tell you enough how messy bean e do is. It gets on everything, ruins 100 mops. If they really layed the cut back on thick your gonna need 100's of dollars of bean e doo. I payed a guy 300 bucks to do a 900sqft basement. Its dry now so all i have to do is slap some paint on. After the bean e doo mess i would have probably payed double just to make the nightmare go away.


01:16AM | 10/21/13
"Pay someone to skim coat it. The bean e doo re activates the mastic, so if you dont get every little bit of it youll regret it because it will stay tacky. I wish someone would have told me about skim coating in the begining."

What do you mean "skim coat" it ... what is that? What product do you specifically use? I really don't want to be scraping this up - not sure if it has asbestos in it but now I'm concerned it does. Would really just love to put something over top of it so that I can paint it! Help please!


02:49PM | 11/16/13
What if I like the look of the black mastic? Does anyone know of a way to cover it with clear coating so I can keep the look?


02:26AM | 11/20/13
same thing here, bean e doo made a huge mess and now I just have a sticky black floor with no hope in sight. It really wont cut all the way through the mastic, it just softened it into a sticky mess. blech!


09:15PM | 12/06/13
We have tile in our basement, that to the best I can determine is asphalt, not asbestos. Some of the tile was removed by the crew we had put in French drains, to eliminate a dampness issue due to a high water table. Underneath the tile are streaks of a dark adhesive. It was suggested (by a flooring specialist) that the tile may have been glued down with black mastic, due to the age of our home (1965). However, the substance isn't sticky like other posters are describing. Does this mean it's not black mastic?

Our end goal is to install a modular floor. Because of previous dampness issues, we want to install something that can be easily taken up and dried out, on the off chance the drains don't work. Is it OK to install a modular floor on top of these adhesive remains if they are black mastic? Or, is the breath-ability of this flooring, that we want because of the previous dampness issues, contraindicated because of the potential of asbestos? Is there an alternate way to level out the floor, where tile was removed by our contractors, so that we don't inadvertently disturb (any more) asbestos?


01:08AM | 03/13/14
Working on removing black mastic which once (likely) held down vinyl tiles which were common in this neighborhood (probably asbestos). Using Klean Strip and a floor scraper. Some areas come nearly clean, many are still dark and tacky. Quite a mess to deal with.
Looking to apply a brown paper floor technique so not sure if I need to get ALL the mastic up or I can simply scrape away it's raised texture and be good with the remaining black tackiness???
Thinking of trying to seal the surface after a full scraping in order to make a unified adhesive surface for the brown paper application.
Not sure what anyone may know about this . . .
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