11:34AM | 08/23/01
Member Since: 08/22/01
16 lifetime posts
Has anyone done this? Any idea where I can get more information on models/cost before I contact someone?


Jay J

11:49AM | 08/23/01
Member Since: 10/26/00
782 lifetime posts
Hi Schlotkins,

Start here: AprilAire There are URLs / links for Zone Heating info, and URLs for Product info. There's even a feature for entering your zip code where you can find a Dealer to give you pricing. (The mfgr. doesn't deal directly w/the public.)

I will say there is somewhat of an art to install these units. You'll need to 'synchronize' your unit with the blower. It's not a straight forward 'install' as you might think.

Regarding Zone Heating (your other post), there are a few options, some of which include: Separate 'units' for heating (like putting electric heat on the 3rd floor whereas you'd turn off the 'duct delivery' to that floor. Then there are 'baffel flaps' that open and close in order to deliver or prevent air from being 'sent' where it's not needed (in order to get more even heating and cooling.) Then, there's major duct work that can be done to physically 'segregate' 1 set of ducts from another. All have their +'s and -'s.

Since you're retrofitting this capibility, I'd consider using electric baseboard heat at the HIGHTEST level (since I suspect you only sleep up there.) With this, each room can even be separately controlled. Of course, you may have to get additional electrical service/lines up there to do this. An electrician would most likely do this job. Then, you could somewhat 'close off' your 2nd level's vents a bit to inhibit the movement of air to that level, and allow the MOST heat to be forced out at the 1st level (assuming that's where you spend most of your waking hours.) Well, in fact, you can actually start by closing off a vent or 2 at the 3rd level, and play w/the vents on the 2nd level to see if you can 'work it out' w/o having to do anything more. (This is how I actually do it in my 2-story home.) The ONLY thing you need to be careful of when it comes to 'closing' or 'obstructing' the air coming out of ducts, is that this can actually make the HVAC unit work hard. The unit WANTS/NEEDS to expell the air. Backpressure isn't good for the unit. So BE careful! Start slowly and keep this in mind. If you have to close off the 3rd floor and partially close off the 2nd floor, you're probably doing more than the unit 'likes'. Be sure to UNDO what you've done, and go to another plan.

Others may have more to offer, so stick around. My best to ya and hope this helps.

Jay J -Moderator


11:26AM | 05/28/13
We recently added a whole house humidifier system and I was wondering if the HVAC system, whether heat or A/C must be on or will the humidifier system work with just the fan motor on?


11:59PM | 05/28/13
Then I've been lied to by Aprilaire. Those of us that live in Albuquerque, NM need a humidifier in the summer as well. Luckily we don't need AC 24/7 because the nights are cool in the spring, however, we still want the humidifier for our skin, health and antiques. Back to my original question, will this system work with just the fan blowing?


04:41PM | 05/29/13
Member Since: 07/22/04
661 lifetime posts
An a/c does 2 things. It lowers the temp and also removes humidity. Moist air feels warmer than dry air at the same temperature. As far as your original question turn the fan on and see if it engages when you turn the humidistat up. If the air is that dry it should add humidity as long as it's wired up to do so.(without the burners running)


02:50PM | 05/31/13
Unfortunately it does not work with just the fan. Does anyone have any advice? I'm tired of getting zapped and waking up with dry sinuses.


06:43PM | 06/01/13
Member Since: 07/22/04
661 lifetime posts
I don't know exactly what kind of unit you have so I can't say for sure but it seems to me it could be set up to work like an evaporative cooler.
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