08:11PM | 05/09/05
Member Since: 05/08/05
1 lifetime posts
I installed a new GFCI and timer for my pond pump. When the pump is not on the GFCI trips. Also, after the pump runs for a while the GFCI also trips. Any ideas?


09:49PM | 05/09/05
Member Since: 07/01/03
549 lifetime posts
Just a guess, but your GFI might be working properly. You may have a hazardous current leak. I would avoid disconnecting the GFI until that possibility could be eliminated. Check your connections, or perhaps the pump.


06:44AM | 05/16/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
There are specially rated GFCIs for such applications that are not the same as protections for other locations. One of the reasons is that they are allowed to trip with a wider tolerance for leakage. A quick visit to the manufacturers of such protection will give you information on what features/models are to be used in your electrical coniguration. Motors and pumps are notorious for trips by their very design. Make sure you have the RIGHT GFCI protection for your application.


06:11PM | 05/16/05
Member Since: 05/03/05
79 lifetime posts

Help me out here...Which GFI are you talking about?


07:15AM | 05/18/05
Member Since: 04/12/05
15 lifetime posts
I suspect that Ell may be trying to recommend using a 30 milliamp GFPE (Ground-Fault Protection for Equipment) device instead of a 5 milliamp GFCI device. If she is, then she is dead wrong.

Or maybe she is trying to refer to a 2-pole 240 volt GFCI device. There's nothing special about these devices, though, except that they work on 240-volt circuits.

I suspect that either the GFCI was bad out of the box (which can happen occasionally), or that Tom is right and there really is a ground fault somewhere (either in the wiring or the pump itself).


07:44AM | 05/19/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
Of course Jarrod "trolls" to always lash out after he's assumed a "fact set".

I was referring to

1) that the OP did NOT indicate if this was a low-voltage pump, 110/120 or 220/240 pump. "pond pumps" are to this day commonly LOW voltage 24 or 36 Volts are sold.

2) The OP indicated that he also recently installed a new timer, and that the GFCI "goes off" when the pump is not in use, hence the suspected incompatibility or error in wiring regards to the TIMER and GFCI.

3) the OP did NOT indicate if this was a submersible OR an EXTERNAL pond pump.

4) The OP did NOT indicate an installation of a componant GFCI, a receptacle GFCI or a GFCI circuit breaker, I assumed NOTHING.

5) GFCIs are rated for use in specific power circuits at specific ratings. Choosing the wrong GFCI for your application, or improper installation can affect your situation.

6) The OP did not indicate if the pump was a wet drive, magnetic drive or direct drive pond pump. The different drive systems can have their own host of trouble shooting factors if the tripping is not a wiring or defective GFCI issue (compatibility issues).

7) There are a multitude of factors and options that could effect this situation and a host of component and wiring errors that could have taken place; there are TOO MANY UNKNOWNS as the OP did NOT specify adequately to make ANY judgement WHATSOEVER. Jarrod has assumed a "fact set" that has NOT been presented, including what he PRESUMED what I was referring to in my previous post. As usual, his suspicions were WRONG.

8) The OP indicated ONLY that he installed a NEW GFCI and NEW timer, but did NOT indicate if he was REPLACING OLD GFCI and OLD timer, or introduced for the first time either or both of these features to his "pond pump" circuit. Again, I assumed NOTHING, but other posters, Jarrod included, have.

I strongly suspect Jarrod uses other posting names, posts ambiguous subjects, then answers himself and belittles others because of a fact set he ASSUMES, and is NOT presented by the OP (original post).


07:54AM | 05/19/05
Member Since: 05/03/05
79 lifetime posts

There are some GFIs that trip off when power is disconneced. I don't know if that is what you have.

My thoughts are you have either a defective GFI or a true ground fault that requires troubleshooting by a professional.


08:03AM | 05/19/05
Member Since: 01/30/05
361 lifetime posts
Some additional things to consider Tshea1:

1) While the water level is still low, and electrical power has been shut off, every piece of equipment should be inspected for wear and damage, including the liner or preformed pond itself, pumps, filters, lights - and all the cables, tubing and connections involved as well. It may be a nuisance to repair or replace items now, but it can be an absolute nightmare to deal with them in mid-summer when everything in the pond is looking its best.

2) Pumps should be scrutinized for housing damage which could result in electrical shock hazard or, in some models, oil leakage and intake blockage (which can reduce water flow and possibly damage the pump itself). If so designed, the pump should also be opened for inspection of the impeller.

3)Pay particular attention to electrical cords that may become frayed or cracked. At best, these will constantly trip Ground Fault Interrupters or circuit breakers; at worst, they create a shock hazard for both livestock and humans.

4) Be on the lookout for stiff, kinked or ruptured tubing as well. Any constrictions or leakage will reduce the water flow available to fountains, waterfalls and filters. And while we're at it, now's the time to secure with plastic hose clamps all the "temporary" connections you may have made last year.

Good luck in your diagnostics.

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