Latest Discussions : Electrical & Lighting


08:45AM | 11/25/08
Member Since: 02/03/08
6 lifetime posts
what is the best way to attach an old work b108r box, i have a fyred wall and need another outlet. is it aceptable to just screw it into the dry wall???


09:29AM | 11/25/08
Member Since: 04/25/05
1915 lifetime posts
"i have a fyred wall "

I don't know what that is.

Don't know why your picked that box.

More commonly an old work box with flippers or clamshell holder is used..

Such as the B120R

You can also use Madison Holdits (also called battleship clips).

A screw through the side is not to code. The concern is that since it has to be driven at an angle that it will leave a sharp edge on from the screw head and that it can cut the insulaiton on the wire. That is not as much a problem with plastic boxes vs metal ones.

And while not to code, it is a practice that is commonly done.

But also with the small boxes I wonder if there will be enough side surface to keep the box from flexing.

However, there are boxes that where made just so that you can run the screw through the side.

There is another brand that makes a similar box.

You will need to go to an electrical supply house.

But these are deeper boxes and I dont' know if they will work for you.


10:50AM | 11/25/08
Member Since: 02/03/08
6 lifetime posts
i should have checked my spelling, it should have read "i have a furred wall about 3/4 inches deep."

on the b108r there are 4 ears and 4 holes that look like they can be used for dry wall screws.


12:08PM | 11/25/08
Member Since: 04/25/05
1915 lifetime posts
Ok I understand now.

I have not used that kind box. But I am afraid that if you put screws into just DW that close to the edge that if it did no crumble immediately it would the first time that you pulled a plug out of the receptacle.

Here are several options.

Use the madison clips. I think that you can be worked in that tight of space.

You slide the long arms of the clip beside the box and the DW and push it all the way up and then get the bottom leg in and move it about 1/2 down.

Then the 2 fingers are bent around the edge of the box. That keeps it form coming out and lips (plaster flange) keeps the box from going in.

Cut some 1/2" plywood about 2" by 3". May need to be a little smaller to get in the hole.

Coat then with construction adhesive and slide then in so that line the back of the DW on the top and the bottom. After the adhesive sets up then you can screw through the DW into the plywood.

Or get the same box in metal.

I assume that there is brick, block or concrete behind the DW. Using the holes in the box mark location on the wall and then use concrete screws or anchor and screws to mount it onto the wall.

If you use a metal box don't forget that the box needs to be grounded. There is a hole taped for a green grounding screw.


03:01AM | 12/21/08
Member Since: 09/20/08
10 lifetime posts
The furring strips are going to give you 3/4", add another 1/2" for the drywall and you have almost the perfect depth of a shallow box.

You could tapcon it to the block or concrete wall behind the drywall or, surface mount it by using some nice #10 or #12 x 1" Flathead screws fastened to the wood furing strips. Make sure you pick up the "industrial cover" that matches the box if you go surface mount. Nothing looks worse than a regular plasting cover on that type of box.

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