Latest Discussions : Painting


09:31AM | 09/08/02
Member Since: 07/09/02
16 lifetime posts
When we took our wallpaper down, the drywall paper also came off. Now we are having a problem smoothing it out. We have applied joint compound & sanded (several times), but the walls are still very uneven. My neighbor who is in construction recommended that we replace it with new drywall. Since I am new at this, I am afraid to do it. However, I have heard that a wallpaper liner applied on the wall might be better than replacing the drywall. Is this true? Keep in mind that the walls are so uneven.

thanks in advance for any help.


01:21AM | 09/12/02
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
It sounds like you need to hire someone who does drywall finishing work as they should be able to get your walls fairly smooth. The wall liner you are talking about is good for bridging crackes, grooves in paneling etc. more so than what you are looking for.


09:15PM | 09/13/02
Member Since: 11/14/00
333 lifetime posts
I would install new dryall instead of use that wallpaper product because you say the wall is very uneven. I am often surprised at how much work people will put into smoothing or repairing an old, cracked and damaged wall when placing a new drywall surface on it would be SO much easier, quicker, and produce far better results.

You can install 3/8 or 1/4 inch or thinner drywall because all you are interested in is a new surface, not a building material that needs to hold stress or provide soundproofing/insulation. (You could use thicker if you want to accomplish more soundproofing at the same time while you are at it). You can install it over the existing wall, even if it is not perfectly smooth.

Drywalling is MUCH easier than you might think: and the easiest to install is the thin, 3/8 or 1/4 inch drywall you will be using because it is the most lightweight. It takes a little longer than wallpapering, but it takes far less skill and you can un-do mistakes far more easily: it is much more foolproof than wallpapering. It can get messy/dusty, but it is easy.

The sheets of drywall are probably available in sizes to fit your room: e.g. eight foot ceilings are standard, which would fit two horizontal sheets of four-foot wide drywall or one vertical sheet of eight-foot long drywall. Because you have an existing wall, you can install them horizontally or vertically, whichever is easier given the dimensions.

To install them horizontally, just locate the studs using a stud-finder (or by measuring from the edge and tapping... much less accurate) before you start. Mark their location on the lower half of the existing wall and on the floor.

Hold the sheet of drywall up on the wall and secure it to the top plate (there is always a stud running horizontally along the ceiling). Let it hang there for a sec. Using a chalk line, suspend the line above the mark where the stud is (gravity will create a straight line with the line you marked on the lower half of the existing wall), tighten it against the wall and snap it. Secure the rest of the sheet to the studs along those lines.

Cutting drywall is as easy as measuring, scoring a line on one side with a utility knife, bending it to break the gypsum (chalk), and then scoring the other side.

"Taping" (putting tape and joint compound on the seams) is made very easy by gulleys between the sheets caused by bevelled edges on the edges of the sheerock that come together to form that gulley. First, tape a piece of fiberglass mesh tape between the sheets. Then fill that gulley with joint compound. You get a flat surface by laying the putty knife flat across the gulley and smoothing it to a flat finish. Really easy. MUCH easier than trying to figure out where the flat surface is on that damaged wall: the flat surface is given to you by the flat edge along the gulleys. Put joint coumpound over the screws, as well. Apply a coat, let it dry a day, apply another, let it dry, and apply a finiishing coat and you usually are done.

Prime it (be sure to prime before painting), and paint. Presto, a perfect wall surface.

[This message has been edited by Lawrence (edited September 14, 2002).]


06:28AM | 09/20/02
Member Since: 07/21/02
48 lifetime posts
I guess I'd have to agree with 5slb6 about hiring someone to smooth the walls out. I've done this many times on old houses, even over rough tile mastic. But then I did a 3 yr. apprenticeship as a drywall finisher, but there's my point... a professional wouldn't have had a problem doing this job. I'm concerned that even if you hang new board you still have to finish the joints and corners and if you can't smooth a flat wall will you be able to handle those joints and not have a mess? You have other concerns with new board such as pulling off and reattaching the trim, outside corner finishing, cutting/finishing around doors and windows, etc. that makes that a last resort in my mind. Good luck.


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