Patches show through

i know this is a silly question, but did you prime the walls before painting with your color coats.

the drywall is paper and the patches are patch compound,and primer helps to seal the wall to mostly even it out.

No, I didn't think it was necessary to prime the whole wall just for a few nail holes.

I watched the guys doinf renovations in our office, and they didn't prime either. Although they did spot paint the spackle with one coat before painting the whole wall and you can't see a thing.

Well weekend you have your answer. If there are just a few spots you can just apply a coat of finish paint over the patches before you paint the entire wall.

OK, so is there any way to fix the walls that I've already painted? Can I just spot paint a second coat on the spakled areas, or will that just show up as a differnce in coverage as well?

Anyone have any input ......?

I wonder "what" is the defect.......

Is the paint just showing a difference in shade and tone.......

OR is the real problem the spackle has left a visible "hump" or "ring-around-the-patch" or maybe a too smooth slick of plaster....

For seamless patching I like to use a sponge to blend the repair into the texture of the wall......

At this point I believe I'd sand the affected areas to feather the repairs and then spot paint the areas (Several times if necessary).......followed by an final top coat ......

Be sure to stir/mix the paint completely to avoid color matching problems........

It looks like the spackled areas are not showing the sheen of the paint the same as the rest of the wall. The spackled areas are not as shiny as the rest.

Its not a diffence is surface height. Well not the ones I did anyway. There are some humps appearing over nailheads from the original owner's installation, but that is not my concern right now.

So you must be useing an eggshell/satin finish on your walls. When you use a paint with a sheen over a flat paint you need to apply an ACRYLIC primer over the entire wall even if you don't have repaired places and if you do have patches you should prime them before you do the entire wall.

You should at this point sand the entire wall and follow the above procedure.

Actually, it is semigloss over semigloss.

So if I understand you corectly, I should have spot primed the patches before appying the final coat. Correct?

At this point, would it do me any good to spot prime the patches with acrylic primer and repaint the wall? I really don't want to sand the whole wall...

You should have primed the patches allowed that to dry and then hit the patches with the semi-gloss before you painted the entire wall.

The reason I am saying you need to sand the entire wall is that you need to get the the same finish and hold out on the entire wall to get rid of the dull spots where you repaired the wall.

I am having the same problem with the house we just bought and painted, but I did primer the whole wall before putting the finishing paint on. Have any suggestions.

My house is 14 years old. Maybe my imagination, but just had a roof inspection, followed by a rain storm and on the ceiling appeared an oval 12" x 2" discolored mark. Thinking it was a water spot ... although strange shape, I investigated above the ceiling drywall in the attic. There was no sign of water, on the gypsum board, damp insulation or roof plywood water signs.
Strange, but after 14 yes could all of a sudden an original repair mark now show through the original paint. ?

Just repaint the entire wall. You can apply spot primer (wall color paint) over the spots first and the repaint (cut in and roll) the entire wall

What if the paint used had had primer in it? I used valspar with primer eggshell sheen and spackle spots are visible.

If the spackle you are painting or priming wasn't sanded ( wet or dry) you will pretty much always be able to see the difference because its 2 different surfaces. You could probably just do a quick touch up over those spots.

Probably just needs another coat over the patches. Small patches such as nail holes on baseboards need not be primed. We are a small house painting company that employs about 3 house painters. Here is a picture of a house that had pre primed trim installed. Pre primed base boards would defeat the purpose if you had to prime the small nail holes.

Try kill complete coat paint and primer

I just recently did a large pool area in a ranch house with rounded stipple on the walls. I removed two old intercoms from the wall and put new drywall, taped it, primed it, sprayed new stipple, primed again and then applied semi-gloss with new paint color on the entire wall. The repaired areas are far more shiny and noticeable.....I have no idea how to fix that. I also allowed proper drying time for everything. 24 hours for the stipple to be primed. I'm stumped.....would the chlorine and humidity over the years from the pool have been absorbed into the walls making it duller? They had semi gloss on the walls prior to this

Guys
It is all about the primer. You should always use a all acrylic primer with hi solids of 30%+
Now to make it look good you should lightly sand walls and then whip down with damp mop. Then reapply
New good primer and go from there with 2 coast of paint.
Be sure surface is dry and clean before priming. Any dust will show thru the paint.

Good luck

New to painting and ran into a similar mishap.
I spackled old over some old screw holes. Once dry, I sanded them down.
I applied one coat of paint (valspar: signature) to the walls so far.
Upon drying, revealed the high points where I did not sand them down as good as I thought and I’m left with two different surface textures.
I’m wondering if I can sand them down, wipe clean, then spot paint over the area before I apply a second coat to the entire wall?
It’s not a big wall and I don’t have time to prime the entire wall. Will this method work well enough, or is the lesser of two evils to just leave it as is?

Thanks!