Latest Discussions : Painting


01:35PM | 01/24/09
Member Since: 08/31/08
12 lifetime posts
I have a wall I need to texture, but it originally had wallpaper that was applied directly to the drywall, so when the wallpaper was removed, it also removed a good deal of the gray paper that is on the outside of the drywall exposing the brown fuzzy paper in most places and in some places even the white powdery substance beneath the brown paper. Can I apply joint compound directly over this and then just roll with heavy nap roller cover to produce my textured look. Or do I need to get some special KILZ sealant to seal in the drywall, then prime?

Also, this kind of ties in with my first question. For texture, is it better to use the joint compound applied with heavy nap roller cover, or is it better to use the special textured paint like the stuff made by Behr?


03:51AM | 01/25/09
Member Since: 04/25/05
1915 lifetime posts
You want to give is a coat of sealer.

There is one, Gardz, that is ideal for this.

What it does is to look down the frayed edges and keeps moisture from following coats from blistering the torn paper.

Then go over it with a sanding block. Not trying to smooth it, but to knock down the stuff that sticks up.

The skim coat it with drywall compound.

Then sand that smooth.

Then prime it before texturing.

Now I have not tried either one of those methods for texturing so I can't comment on that.

But you can't texture right over damaged drywall. It will show through and be ugly.

But of you are texturing the repairs don't need to be perfect.

But you can do the repairs go enough to use regular paints.


02:21PM | 01/25/09
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
As far as what to use as texture it depends on what effect you want. The ready made textures will give a sand type of finish in either medium or rough. The drywall mud will be textured but without a sand finish and you will either need to add water or even flat latex paint to the mud to use it.

The last post was right on the preperation work before you start on the walls. The GARDZ primer is a great product as it does truely work.


07:56PM | 01/25/09
Member Since: 08/31/08
12 lifetime posts
Thanks for the input. I will give the GARDZ a try. It seems like if you sand away the parts that are sticking up, you would effectively break through the seal. Is this the case or would it matter anyway? When you say skim coat with drywall compound, what's the best way to do this? How would you make sure to have an even thickness over the entire wall? In between sanding it smooth and priming before texturing, would I wipe down the walls? Would I use a dry cloth or a wet one? Thanks before hand for answering these questions.


08:02PM | 01/25/09
Member Since: 08/31/08
12 lifetime posts
For the texture, ideally I will be able to match the wall I'm working on with the other walls around it. I think they are what you call orange peel which I'm pretty sure is achieved using a machine. I really do not want to use a machine. From what your message says, it sounds like I might get the closest match by using the drywall mud since the other walls do not appear to have a sand finish. What would be better, to add water or flat latex paint? Could I mix it with KILZ 2 and basically knock out two birds with one stone? Whether I use water or paint, how would I know when I had added enough of either?


04:42AM | 01/26/09
Member Since: 04/25/05
1915 lifetime posts
While that first sanding is only to knock of the tips that are sticking up above the average. They will catch the blade when you skim coat and you end up with a bigger bump.

The sealer might have soaked below the point that you are knocking off. But even if it does not they area that are exposing is such a small amount (1/8") that it won't absorb much moisture.

You don't need to get an equal amount of compound on the walls. Drywall walls are not flat.

If you get a strong light and put it so that it is flat against the wall and the beam goes from one end to the other you will see all kinds of waves and bumps.

What you need is it to be uniform.

It is easier to put on a thin coat and if there are skips go back and patch that up with another coat after it dries rather than a thick coat.

And you don't need to cover every square inch. Just the area where there is damaged paper or gouges in the existing compound.

When you sand it you feather it out into the undamaged areas.

Use LIGHT WEIGHT compound for the skim coat. It is easier to sand.

And if you can get it look for one that has Dust Control or similar wording on it.

It makes the same amount of dust when you sand, but it all falls rather than floating around the room.

BTW, when you sand turn off the furance and you can tape of light weight plastic over the doors to keep the dust from spreading.

Wrap a broom with a dry rag to knock down the dust after sanding.

The only orange peal texture that I have done is small repairs with spray cans.

And there is a lots of variations is size and desnsity for what is called orange peel.

So you will have to experiment with different type of rollers and how wet your compound is.

I would start by some tests on poster boards Or get a 1/2 sheet of drywall.

But if you prime after skim coating then when you apply the texture if you don't like what you see you can take you drywall knife and scrap it off. Then a damp rag will wash down the wall.

You will want a drywall pan or a hawk and a 10-12" drywall knife to do the skim coating.

At the top of the page you have a Video tab and Home Improvement tabs. I have not been through those, but I they probably have some info on dry wall muding and/or texturing.

Also google on - drywall skim coat - will get you a number of hits. Including videos on youtube.

Also google on - texturing drywall roller -

And similar phrases.


04:22PM | 01/26/09
Member Since: 07/28/02
1356 lifetime posts
Sorry but you are going to have to prime the wall before you texture as adding primer to the mud will not do the same thing.

As far as thinning the mud you can add up two guarts of water or up to a gallon of latex flat paint to a five gallon bucket of drywall mud. The amount you add will determine how heavy the texture is so you will have to experiment to see if it is the look you want. You will need a mud mixer and an electric drill to mix up the mud.

Hope this helps out.


07:27PM | 01/26/09
Member Since: 08/31/08
12 lifetime posts
Thanks to both of you for all of the ideas. I will try these and get back to you.

Post a reply as Anonymous

Photo must be in JPG, GIF or PNG format and less than 5MB.

Reply choose button


Post new button or Login button