Laminate floor edges
I am now having a dialogue with the sales rep who claimed that the floor should hold water for 5 days without damage and the factory which maintains that spills need to be immediately wiped up. I places a softsided cooler which sweated on the floor overnight and swelled the joints. I have noticed that the tight original joints are now swelling slightly. I will have to remove and reinstall the floor but am afraid of the same thing happening again.
Is there any treatment I can put on the joints to provide a better seal? I know of a glue joit Pergo floor that still looks good after 10 years.
I wanted a reliable tough floor and ended up with a lemon. I would not recommend this floor to anyone. I wonder if anyone has had experience with this?
I want to know if there is anything I can coat the edges with (short of gluing them) to prevent re-entry of water in the future.
[This message has been edited by rpxlpx (edited November 12, 2002).]
Unfortunately, Uniclic will not refund me my money and are sticking to the fine print on the warranty and that is to replace the material only.
It's good to hear that other manufacturers are making a good product. I would love to hear from others who tested their floor and found it performed well. I would also like to hear from those who have had problems with Uniclic. Uniclic which is also called Quick Step claims to have the best product on the market and the best warranty.
I will have to rent a truck and go to the supplier to pick up the replacement floor. Remove my existing floor, discard it and spend three weekends reinstalling it. My labor and inconvenience means nothing to them, despite the fact that I am in the design business and in a position to recommend different types of flooring. This company will obviously never get any recommendations from me.
We went to the home improvement store and they suggested using a sealant from one of the other manufacturers to place on the end of the boards to prevent such things. We put the flooring in a room that is seldom used, therefore is not as succeptible to spills and the like...but, we do want to use the same product in another room...and I think, that this time, we will be using the same product, however, glueing the seams and ends to help prevent a situation like yours.
Although I personally prefer wood floors, we are first time home owners on a budget, and this floor has done so far, so good...so, long story short, use sealant...good luck.
Thanks for the advice. What is this sealant you refer to? Who makes it? does it come in a tube like caulking?
Although gluing the floor together sounds like it takes care of the problem, it does nullify the versatility of the floor in that you can "replace" a damaged board in the future.
Sealent (Silicone) is a great help at the edges of the floor but won't help at the plank joints and glue is NOT an option as it will cause a substrate failure from hydraulic pressure at assembly.
[This message has been edited by AzFred (edited January 02, 2003).]
You are correct about expectations.
I was in the market for an Armstrong product when the sales rep for Uniclic happened to be in the showroom and said the following "the floor (Uniclic) will withstand water for up to 5 days without damage". I don't expect that of any similar product.
The fact is that this product is very similar to hardboard siding, which is no longer used because of the swelling that occurs when exposed to moisture. Wood floors are not destroyed by similar moisture that ruined my floor.
You obviously have some stake in Uniclic. This is a forum to discuss problems and solutions to them, so, please take your opinions about expectations somewhere else if you have nothing of value to offer.
I am trying to find a solution to a problem here, not complain about the company, although, if someone whants my opinion on Uniclic, I will freely share it.
I want to (ironically) say that it was an Armstrong glue, it came in a tube as opposed to a caulker tube. We're gearing up for our next floor replacement project, and it's in the dining room/kitchen area.(btw, see posting about tile border with wood insert...am trying to find a guideline..and we thought that since the Uniclic went together so easily that is where we would go, but you do have a point about replacing boards...back to the drawing boards so to speak
I read your posting on tile borders. I would not use Uniclic or any similar product as it is supposed to be a "floating floor" and require a transition strip between the tile and the "wood" planks. You will have a bump in your floor, but I'm sure you want that to be a flush condition.
I see you edited your comment to include a recommendation on the sealant. I guess what you are saying is that you should put nothing in the plank joints except for the perimeter of the room. That is not an option with me because if moisture gets back in the joints, the floor will be ruined. BTW, the floor is supposed to be damp mopped only. We do that very carefully, but have already started to detect a slight raising of the joints due to the slight moisture.