01:00AM | 02/21/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
you can call me to discuss further,i have questions about your situation that i need you to answer. Feel free, am here to try and help you/anybody 586-777-7973


07:41PM | 02/24/05
Member Since: 02/24/05
4 lifetime posts

I am a Webmaster/Administrator of site which has been mentioned in another post re: basement waterproofing.

I just post a reply to it, but would like to mention again:

Our company launched a new product for waterproofing basements.

It is highly effective DIY product which has been used in Europe for over 50 yrs and it is now introduced to the residential market in N. America for the first time. It actually Penetrates deep inside the walls expanding, sealing all capillaries in concrete/blocks so no water gets through. It becomes integral part of the concrete so we give a warranty for the lifetime of the structure.

You can check it out at:

Hope this will help to end your wet basement problems



01:11PM | 03/04/05
Member Since: 03/03/05
273 lifetime posts
I did not waste time with tars and cement, those products just don't last. Most DIY products are worthless and if they don't work the companies blame it on poor application or improper surface prep. Do yourself a favor and hire a professional with commercial-grade products. Email me with any question. [email protected]


08:12AM | 04/17/05
Member Since: 10/08/04
12 lifetime posts
Hi there.

We are still waiting for it to stop raining in Seattle! It has been months since you first answered my questions about our basement, but we haven't had a good dry spell to even start the process.

At this point, we've only emptied the two basement rooms that the water is coming in and pulled the carpets back. We have fans on in those rooms 24 hours a day, 7 days a week to dry it out if water does come through. We also have the wet/dry vac in there at all times. I'm worried about the carpet, but it doesn't smell and they don't seem to be moldy. We are removing them though and after the walls are fixed, we're going to replace all the carpet.

I'm still wondering if we should use xypex? I have seen someone else say that they are going to use it. Do you have any thoughts on this?

I am wondering, we've used bleach on the cement floor, is there something else that we should clean it with? Also, I was reading kingvolcao's reply. I am wondering, after we use the thick grade tar, how long do you think that it will last us? Will we have to do this again in a few years? Let me know what you think. Thanks again for your help.

Take care,



12:56AM | 04/18/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts

I would use a THICK Tar...not xypex...we have used it for 26 years! If others want to jump on newer/less proven products so be it,i`m just pointing out what works,what holds up over time and what is elastic... thick T A R (roofing cement). If done correctly `n backfilled correctly, you shouldnt have to ever do it again,gl


01:06AM | 04/18/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
...i have met a handful of you folks who post here and on within last couple months and most of them now know what i`m talking about. They get the fact that an inside method (j-hammer) is BS! They get the fact that many inside companies who want to sell you this method are way over-priced for a method that does NOT Stop water from entering the basement,does not stop-lessen in ANY way hydrostatic/lateral pressure and also will not stop-prevent mold,efflorescence,radon.

They also get the fact that ANY waterproofing paint product like Drylock will NOT stop water from entering through cracks in the basement walls.


05:20PM | 06/01/05
Member Since: 03/21/01
3 lifetime posts
You say you can seal tie rod leakage from the inside. What approach do you suggest?



04:06AM | 06/02/05
Member Since: 03/05/04
301 lifetime posts
most if not all states only require a builder to put/plug rod holes with 1 cork. The walls are 8"--12" thick, so having 1 lousy cork thats about 1-2" long in all the rod holes is hardly enough..ya know. Where is the correct thought-process from the states and the builders here!?!? can seal all/any rod holes with pushing hydraulic cement into each rod hole from the inside with the help of a 10-12" inch tool(or anything that length)to feed/push/pack the hyd cement all the way through or into each hole. Or you can use about 7-8 correct size corks and push them into each hole,1 after another, and then fill the last 2-4 inches with hyd cement. Either way, as long as each r hole is fully `n tightly plugged...shouldnt each home that is built have each `n every rod hole fully/totally sealed, for the amount of money for new home, surely the builder(their laborers) can do that and fit that into their schedule.

Why should a homeonwer 'think-assume' the r holes are done correctly, spend money on finishing the basement(dry wall etc) and then a few years down the road have to tear down the dry wall `n plug these holes correctly,gl!


08:03AM | 06/09/06
Member Since: 06/08/06
2 lifetime posts
There are several systems available to consumers, however, even if you are handy around the house your best bet is to seek out a licensed, locally established professional to install a proven system for you. These people are trained to install these systems to protect your home and belongings against any future damage. Check out and see the products and services they offer. They offer warranties that they will stand behind, and install systems that are proven. An insured professional will save you time and aggravation down the road. You'll thank yourself later.

Basement Technologies of WNY
Click to reply button Inspiration banner


Post a reply as Anonymous

Photo must be in JPG, GIF or PNG format and less than 5MB.

Reply choose button


Post new button or Login button

Follow banner a
Newsletter icon Flipboard glossy Facebook Twitter Pinterest Youtube Rss icon