Latest Discussions : Basement & Foundation

MistressEll

01:42PM | 07/19/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
360 lifetime posts
Although the city of chicago proper allows because they don't have seperate storm system within the older central city - most if not ALL of the burbs do NOT. In fact if you are in NW area you are prohibited (if still cook or S. Lake County). To the STORM via non-direct yes...to the sanitary sewer...NO.

1) the battery back up will be about useless if you get continuous filling and a power outage of any length. Sure hope you have a real MARINE battery and not the cheapo car batteries that are usually pawned off with those ace-in-the hole type backups AND that you have that sump power cord for the back-up properly PRIMED (there is a tube in the power cord).

2) Ground water seems too high for your new addition lower depth - hope you had a geographical engineering study done before you built. Neighboring pools? Any chance your SEWER lines are leaking (your connection to the MAIN)?

Otherwise suspect you have leakage in the main STORM SEWER and/or your street out front is dumping onto your property (lotsa clay around these parts).

3) if you have CITY water - suggest you'd be better served using a WATER PRESSURE (potable water driven) BACKUP sump pump system for this always running lower basement sump, switch the batery back=up system you have to the higher elevation older basement sump that hardly ever runs. This water pressure driven sump will ALWAYS run irrespective of battery power as long as there is positive city water pressure (well worth it).

4) suspect A) your sump pit is not large enough B) your sump pit is not fully lined deep enough C) your sump pump is not STRONG enough and D) your discharge is not LARGE enough. I wonder if E) you might have a faulty check valve (post sump pump but before exit) that isn't opening/closing fully and you have back-flow or F) your likely less than legal connection to the sewer doesn't travel high enough with a proper pitch then drop to sewer and you're syphoning water back into your basement and drain tile system via the sump pit.

If your sump pit and pump are lower than the city sewer system (which is likely only about six feet below the earth IF EVEN THAT...as the Storm sewer tends to run ON TOP of the Sanitary sewer - you're likely syphoning the entire city's storm flow back into your lower drain tile system below your 3- deeper new basement.

Now...if you're south of the NW metro district...or immediately west of the city proper MAYBE O.P allows.

Even Deep Tunnel gets overwhelmed. With the long drought and latest fast/heavy downpours of 2" plus in less than an hour x3 lately the rain has had no chance to soak into the scortched earth - run-off to paths of least resistance and flooding has been common.

If your basement is lower than your sewer connection of your foundation drain tile system (sump pump) to same is NOT wise. A drywell far from your foundation, WIDE and DEEP would be much wiser - allowing for slow disapation to the surface water deep down in the soil at a slower steady rate - (time to perk) far and away from your basement.

You may well need a second sump pit and pump in a second location of your addition - deeper not always wiser especially in our clay-ridden area with oh-so-much of the land these days being paved over/rooved over - no earth left to absorb the rainfall, let alone the run-off from structures/roads sidewalks, etc.

toddjk

02:23PM | 07/19/07
Member Since: 03/27/06
18 lifetime posts
I live in Oak Park. I've passed plumbing inspection - they want you to empty into the sewer.

As for the rest of your post - I've pretty much got a heart attack reading it - some of it is over my head, some of it has me concerned. We put our life savings into this addition - the village signed off on everything, of course, and our architect seemed pretty competent.

My battery back up on my upper pump is an AGS battery (not a car battery) - Permaseal did the work.

Is there any way we can talk real time about this? Could you perhaps send me an email (todd.kahn@ge.com) with your phone #? I'd be happy to pay for your time - you've got me real concerned.

MistressEll

02:52PM | 07/19/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
360 lifetime posts
I almost mentioned Oak Park as an exception since they are right on the west boarder of chicago and use chicago treatment - and are not a part of the NW district.

Unfortunately they are oftentimes remiss in their reviews regarding drainage issues (just like the City of Chicago).

good news is you're on city of chicago water too (via Oak Park) so you have adequate water pressure to run a water driven back-up sump in your deeper ever-cycling sump pit instead of the battery back up one. Money there spent won't go to waste since you can relocate the battery-back-up to your other sump pit on the older basement higher elevation side.

Here's the thing...

your newer excavation is lower, and its drain tile system lower. Therefore gravity and the path of least resistance means sumps on this addition being lower, draintiles lower, etc. will run first - and suck from the ground (drainage, dried out areas will then re-fill with water from soil/land/higher drainage field in front of the house) with water that used to go to the old sump.

Additionally you have increased water shed from the roof of the addition washing down.

Where are your gutters from old house and new addition terminating?

Far enough from the foundation?

french drain system to a drywell at the back of the property, or to the street storm drains?

If you don't re-direct all this water spill from the house itself far and away from the ground around your foundation, it will just keep perking to your drain tile system and into your sump.

which side of 290 you on? north or south of the eisenhower? east or west of the old coal gas plant/epa cleanup site?

toddjk

03:31PM | 07/19/07
Member Since: 03/27/06
18 lifetime posts
>>>good news is you're on city of chicago water too (via Oak Park) so you have adequate water pressure to run a water driven back-up sump in your deeper ever-cycling sump pit instead of the battery back up one. Money there spent won't go to waste since you can relocate the battery-back-up to your other sump pit on the older basement higher elevation side.>Here's the thing...

your newer excavation is lower, and its drain tile system lower. Therefore gravity and the path of least resistance means sumps on this addition being lower, draintiles lower, etc. will run first - and suck from the ground (drainage, dried out areas will then re-fill with water from soil/land/higher drainage field in front of the house) with water that used to go to the old sump.>Additionally you have increased water shed from the roof of the addition washing down.

Where are your gutters from old house and new addition terminating?

Far enough from the foundation?

french drain system to a drywell at the back of the property, or to the street storm drains?

If you don't re-direct all this water spill from the house itself far and away from the ground around your foundation, it will just keep perking to your drain tile system and into your sump>which side of 290 you on? north or south of the eisenhower? east or west of the old coal gas plant/epa cleanup site?

toddjk

03:40PM | 07/19/07
Member Since: 03/27/06
18 lifetime posts
I was trying to paste in some of your comments and respond to them but it didn't work. I don't have time at the moment to re-type them - wife and kids are waiting.

Again, if you found it in your heart to drop me an email with a phone number - I would be eternally grateful. My head is swimming right now, and I could use some help.

To quickly answer one of your questions, I'm on Oak Park Ave, just south of North Ave, so well north of 290 (at least for Oak Park).

MistressEll

04:09PM | 07/21/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
360 lifetime posts
I want you to un-emotionally review the entire thread and think about it, then walk around your house, looking at rain/run-off collection points, etc. and get a handle on the topography and connections.

Then I want you to think about what has already been offered.

If you're still over your head I'll give you a call. (I saw a listing for you, hopefully its still valid).

Relax enjoy the weekend, for a change we have no rain in the forecast for a few days.

toddjk

01:50PM | 07/24/07
Member Since: 03/27/06
18 lifetime posts
OK MistressEll, I’m going to try this again – I have calmed down somewhat J. I want to answer some of your questions, then just pose a couple more of my own…

---good news is you're on city of chicago water too (via Oak Park) so you have adequate water pressure to run a water driven back-up sump in your deeper ever-cycling sump pit instead of the battery back up one. Money there spent won't go to waste since you can relocate the battery-back-up to your other sump pit on the older basement higher elevation side.---

The battery back-up I have now is already on my older (higher) basement sump pit. I currently do not have any back up on my lower pit. That area is unfinished right now, and will remain so for a few years – I went over budget in just about every area of the addition! The older part of the basement had absolutely no water management system whatsoever when I moved in, and either the previous homeowner omitted the fact that the basement got water, or I just had bad luck, because during every steady or heavy rain, I would get seepage at the floor/wall joints and hydrostatic pressure through the floor. I had Permaseal install the interior drain tile and sump pit, with an AGM battery back-up. It has completely fixed the water issues on the upper level. Since the water I was getting there was seepage, I’m not too concerned about a pump not being able to keep up – I would imagine that pit is filling very slowly. It’s now the lower pit I’m worried about.

I’ve done a little research on the water powered pumps – seems like a great solution. I saw on one website for the base pump, that the recommended a 5-gallon test off of a hose spigot. My bucket filled in a little over the 40-second limit – but according to the village of Oak Park, the water that comes into my house is delivered at 43-45psi, never dipping below 43. I have a 1 ½ “ line coming into my house.

Given those numbers, am I still a good candidate? Any particular model you would recommend?

---Here's the thing...

your newer excavation is lower, and its drain tile system lower. Therefore gravity and the path of least resistance means sumps on this addition being lower, draintiles lower, etc. will run first - and suck from the ground (drainage, dried out areas will then re-fill with water from soil/land/higher drainage field in front of the house) with water that used to go to the old sump.

Additionally you have increased water shed from the roof of the addition washing down.---

Yep, I understand. Since there never was an old sump, the new sump is just picking up water that would have otherwise been under or against the old part of the house. There was a drain outside the basement, which was a walkout, but that was dug out along with the catch basin it fed. All of my basement plumbing and floor drain on the upper level now goes to a newly installed ejector pit.

The water coming into the pit during last week’s storms was fast – but the pump kept up. By the morning, the water had slowed to a trickle. The next evening, the pump was cycling about once every 45-50 minutes. Now, after 5 dry days, there is still a drip into the pit, and I hear the pump cycle every so often, but hours apart.

---Where are your gutters from old house and new addition terminating?

Far enough from the foundation?

french drain system to a drywell at the back of the property, or to the street storm drains?

If you don't re-direct all this water spill from the house itself far and away from the ground around your foundation, it will just keep perking to your drain tile system and into your sump.---

There are 3 gutters on the rear of my house – the two on the ends have 10’ extensions and spill next to my deck, which runs the width of the house. The one that runs down the middle of the house on the back spills out under my deck – I put one of those 5 foot flexi-spouts on it – I’m thinking I’ll put another 5’ extension on. I have another two gutters on the side of the house – both of those have extensions that take them to the property line (about 6 feet). The only other gutter is in the front, next to the front steps. I put one of those rain drains on it (the kind that unroll when it fills with water), as that gutter would otherwise dump right at the foundation in the front. It’s a good 35 feet from there to my sump. That gutter used to run into a sewer line – but that line doesn’t go anywhere anymore – the hole is still there, but it’s basically covered by the gutter – I can’t imagine there is much water getting in there, and I’m not sure where anything that got there would go – I do plan on just capping it with some PVC. What I really should have done was run the gutter out to my front yard when I put my new walkway in, but I didn’t really know what I was doing. I suspect that run-off at this point of the house was a major contributor to the seepage on the upper part of my basement – there was a significant seepage area right on the side of the house where the water would run off. But again, since the upper drain tile was installed, that problem has disappeared.

---which side of 290 you on? north or south of the eisenhower? East or west of the old coal gas plant/epa cleanup site?---

I’m not real close to 290 or the Barrie Park clean-up.

Again, I do appreciate your time. The phone number you found is likely the right one – even in my less panicked state, I would still welcome the opportunity to speak with you.

MistressEll

08:42AM | 08/28/07
Member Since: 01/30/05
360 lifetime posts
You started a new string regarding this, and I just responded there.

Its been a little busy around these parts lately, as you are well aware!

Sorry it took a while to get back to you - I also provided links and phone number contacts for the system you asked about. Should work well since your city water pressure is above 30 psi consistantly.

Hanann

07:22PM | 03/15/16
Member Since: 03/15/16
1 lifetime posts
I am having the same problem. Sump pump running but no water around the house. Where is the water coming from? All of my gutters at least 5 to 6 ft away from foundation. Sump pump drains at least 8 ft away from the house. Grading is away from foundation.

So where is the water coming from to make the sump pump run every 5 minutes?

BV012739

07:59AM | 09/01/16
Hannan, I am having a similar issue here in Carmel, IN. Water flowing into sump pit at an estimated 300 gallons/hour. Sump pump pumping out every 15 seconds. And we haven't had rain in two days. Been in the house for 12 years. Usually bone dry in the sump pit, except during rains. Anyone have any idea where this new water source is coming from? Water meter not spinning so no water leak on my line. Neighbors water meter steady also, no leak. Help!!

BV013663

02:44PM | 04/18/17
Our sump pump is running every 40-60 seconds. Our house is 2½ years old and this is the first time our sump pump has been running. We have diverted the sump crock hoses away from our house about 80 or more feet. Our water table may also be high and we have had much rain this Spring (and there is another storm headed our way for the next two days). We have one sump crock/pump in our finished basement and with the pump going on and off every minute, we are wondering how long our pump will be able to handle this. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

BV013784

09:57PM | 05/01/17
I live in NY I have a sump pump in the basement and it keeps throwing out water even if there is no rain or no water from sprinklers. Where is all this water coming from. I am the only one on the street who throws water on the street.

I just wondered where this water could be coming. Please guide..

icjr52

03:22PM | 08/08/17
Member Since: 08/08/17
2 lifetime posts
I am having the same problem. Sump pump running but no water around the house. No rain as of the other day. Where is the water coming from?

So where is the water coming from to make the sump pump run every 5 minutes?

BV017448

02:52PM | 09/18/18
Water is running into my sump pit why

BV024014

04:58AM | 12/13/20
All,
I would recommend buying a gallon of eco safe tracer dye and start with filling a bathtub with this dye (make sure it is non-staining). Let it drain and watch your sump pump pit and discharge for the dye. If it is visable then you have a drain/sewer leak problem (call a plumber). If there is not dye then fill several 5 gallon buckets of water with the dye and start from each individual down spout (one at a time)and pour 20-30 gallons of water at the discharge of the down spout. Watch the sump pit an discharge for the dye. Due this to each down spout checking the sump pit and discharge after each, allowing about an hour before moving to the next. This gives the water enough time to make it to your pit, so you can determine the area of your homes causing the problem. Once you find the area determine if it needs to be graded, a french drain or some other water remediation.

BV024156

03:34PM | 01/06/21
I found by raising the float in the sump pump to near the top, thus keeping it pretty full of water, it did not constantly run. Maybe 4 times a year. I was told that if my water level in the sump pump is lower than my neighbours, the water flows to mine. So I raised it 10 years ago and problem solved.


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